xrated

I don't think that Joe called you a "liar"; I believe that he was implying that maybe you were wrong in your reading of the DOT code. You certainly got a bad deal in the fact that they wouldn't totally make the situation go away.....no questions ask. My suggestion is that if you do in fact win the settlement, throw another couple hundred dollars with it and buy yourself a NoMar tire changer and order your tires online from whoever you choose. NoMar

Stock mufflers are about as desireable as having a face full of Zits on Prom night! Take what you can get out of them and be thankful that they are not hanging on the wall of your garage for 20 years collecting dust!!!

My girlfriend Peggy is selling her 2000 F4, Silver/Red. It has 27,xxx miles on it and a set of Pilot Powers. The bike is basically stock and has some rash on the left side that was there when she bought the bike. She has never laid it down and the pictures that follow will show the rash. It runs very well and really needs nothing except new tires in a couple of thousand miles. The bike has been garage kept and is pretty good condition mechanically. It has the usual paint knicks that you would find on a seven year old bike. The previous owner was a lady and traded it in for a 600RR. What I will be willing to do when the bike finally does need tires is this. You purchase the tires and bring the bike back to our house and I will mount whatever tires that you purchase, balance them and remount the tires/wheels on the bike for you for free. I have a NoMar tire changer at my house and a static balancer and do my own tires for both my street bike and my track bike. The NADA price shows $3700 (currently) and she will sell it for $2995. Frame is straight, tires/wheels are round, and would make a great bike for someone that is looking to get a sportbike for not a lot of money. Clean title (not salvage) in hand and ready to go. Keep in mind that insurance on this bike is going to be somewhat less than a liter bike, which is good, if you are a younger rider. Oh, BTW, the reason she is selling this bike is because she bought a 600RR and she doesn't need two bikes. You can contact me via PM on here or call me on my cell at the following number. 618-531-0508. Ask for Vernon

I've got two Canyon Dancers and will sell them both for thirty bucks or $15 apiece. I've recently bought the Baxley wheel chocks and now, roll the bike into it, latch the pivot mechanism, and put a strap on both sides at the rear of the bike and pull forward. No more screwed up grips or broken control pods on the left side of the clipons.

Not to jack this thread, but I've been using the Crystal Glo for several years and just haven't found anything that I like better. Got mine at Cycle Gear.

R1000 wrote: Dude, I'm not sure what you are experiencing (or smoking???) but as a previous owner of an XX and the present owner of 2 CBR1000RRs (one for street and one for track), I gotta tell you, the Blackbird is a great bike, but it ain't going to compare with ANY of the modern litre bikes, and especially on the track. My stock '05 1000RR will pull away from an XX and being approx. 100 lbs lighter, will out corner it on any track you care to ride. HP vs. HP on stock bikes goes to the 1KRR or any other modern litre bike. If you were pulling away from the GSXRs, the 1000RR and the rest that you mentioned, you were either dreaming when that happened or you have had some serious motor work done on the Bird. Sorry to burst your bubble and wake you up, but hey, what are fellow forum members for?

Tim, most likely that IS going to be the problem and there is no way for you to check it out. Basically when components like that go south, it's a matter of replacing the whole printed circuit board. There's no enough info to say for sure what that board does, but more than likely it's involvement is going to be safeties that keep the furnace from firing it they are not met. Does the inside cover of the furnace have a schematic drawing glued to it? If so, at least you might be able to easily get some info about model and brand and so on. Good luck.

The Corsa III is a direct comparison to the Pilot Powers. The Diablo Corsa is more of a track oriented tire than the Corsa III. The type of tire that you should run is going to depend on what type of riding that you are doing on the XX. When I owned mine, I was OK with a sport/touring tire until I got more and more aggressive in my riding style. It makes little sense to buy a super sticky tire if most of your riding is slabbing it or touring. On the other hand, if you are in the canyons or twisty stuff alot, sacrifice the mileage and get something sticky.

For any of you that are interested in changing your own tires and then needing a way to balance them, I would recommend the Marc Parnes static wheel balancer. I bought one and then made my own stand for it and it is definitely a quality unit. Mounted and balanced my first one this past weekend and it works perfect.

Philip wrote: Philip, they air the tires up to max (42psi), never get the engine RPM over about 5K, and do a lot of coasting to a stop.

One of the most convenient things to get for a trailer that is going to hold multiple bikes on one occassion and maybe only one or two the next time is "E Track". This allows you to move your chocks forward or backward whenever or wherever you need them for the occassion. I have a 6' x 12' enclosed and I put a permanent wheel chock on the right side of the trailer and then two pieces of etrack in, one in the middle and one on the left side. If I'm hauling one bike, I want it in the middle of the trailer and I can move my Pingle brand wheel chock to the middle etrack. If I'm hauling two bikes, one goes in the permanant wheel chock and the other goes in the pingle chock that fits into the etrack....on the left side of the trailer. Hauling 4 bikes in a 14' trailer can be done, but it is tighter than a Bull's ass at fly time. Personally, if I were hauling 4, I'd go with a 16' x 7' if you have the tow vehicle to be able to do that. I sometime wish I had a bigger trailer when I do track days. Two bikes, pit stands, popup canopy, lawn chairs, generator, riding gear, cooler, Craftsman 3 tier toolbox, spare tires and wheels, etc. It is surprising how quickly you can fill one up with "other stuff" after you get the bike in. Another thing, DON'T buy cheap tie down straps or cheap anchors to tie the bikes down. I've got a couple of set of Ancra tie downs that I bought way back in the 70's and are still using them, although I use them for strapping the rear wheels down when I transport. Make sure and get a trailer with a ramp door on the back! Duh!

N1K, You truck probably doesn't "weigh" 8000lbs, that's the rating on the truck. I'd be surprised if your truck weighs more than 5000 to 5500lbs......and certainly a 5000lb lift would work on one end at a time.

I think that was meant to mean that there are no such animals in these here parts (U.S. of A.) .......'eh

'06 BlackBird????????????????/ Ain't no such animal in these here parts. Actually, it looks like the cluster off of a CBR1000RR.

PP's are really happy at 31/31 on my 1000RR for twisty stuff and a little lower for track day use. Since I don't do a lot of slabbing or distance, I keep them at those pressures all the time.

I just bought another automatic trickle charger.......from Walmart. Now before you say anything, the brand is Schumacher ? sp who has been making battery chargers since Christ was a teenager. Oh BTW...$17.95

Philip, Sorry if I'm coming in late on this.....maybe you've got it fixed by now. Anyway, Square D company makes a line of breaker panels called "Homeline" and they are a cheaper quality, cheaper price unit than the standard Square D unit. Consequently, the breaker are NOT interchangable between the standard unit and the homeline. The standard unit uses a "QO" breaker in it and will not work in a homeline and vice versa. As I was looking at the pictures that you posted, it looks like you've got the right breaker, you just didn't get the breaker installed correctly. Slip the notch that is on the end of the breaker by your A/C wires, onto the matching piece on the breaker panel...........Then......slide the "contact fingers" down onto the buss of the breaker. Hope this helps

Josh, Anything that pulls a heavy current draw (amps) should have it's own circuit. Take the time to run a separate circuit for the vest. Volts x Amps = watts of power. Example: a 12V vest that is rated at 75 watts would draw approx 6 1/4 amps. Make sure that you install an inline fuse of the proper rating for it too. Hope this helps.

Why not just save your allowance money between now and winter and buy a second and/or a third one as needed?

You have the LEAST sticky of the Pilot tires. Roads are mostly mileage tires, Powers are a mix of mileage and some stick, Powers are the mostly track days, some mileage. Then comes the Power Race, which is basically a track only tire. Don't expect a lot of grip on a Pilot Road.....but do expect good mileage.

Sounds about normal............GO RIDE!

Tim, ain't you got something else to do........like work or something! I was going to answer that question and show my mechanical genius!

I've used the Puig double bubble on both of my CBR1000RR's and never had any issues with either one of them. They are BOTH the dark smoke. When I finally turned my '04 into a track bike, I reinstalled the factory windscreen because it is clear and I didn't want to spend the money on a clear Puig. Hope this helps.

The obvious advantage to doing as he suggested........is to not cycle the HID light bulb twice when starting the bike. The question, as I see it, was whether or not it would cause electrical problems somewhere down the road using the side stand switch as the "start button". I'm saying no it will not. The analogy that I would make is like my riding mower. Key has to be on, mower deck in the raised position, seat switch activated by sitting on the seat, and brake pedal pushed.......all of those safety criteria have to be met in order for it to start. So, it really doesn't matter if you turn the key on and hit the starter, THEN sit down on the seat, or turn the key on and push the brake pedal, or turn the key on and raise the mower deck.k As long as all three are met, the mower will start. Same way with the bird. Hope this helps

That's the numbers that Monte at STT told me to run respectively......street and track. Sorry, that's all the info that I have. BTW, 42 is the max. tire pressure recommended by the Michelin. That will get you a Hard ride, maximum mileage, and not near enough grip for the bike. The Powers are a Track/Street tire similar to the Pirelli Diablo Corsas and are made to run at lower pressures to acheive the grip that they are capable of. If you are going to run 42, just be careful that you don't spin up the rear tire or push the front in an agressive riding situation. Hope that helps