xrated

When I still had the bird, I went through 3 sets of Avons on the rear. The AV36 several years ago, netted me about 6500, then they came out with the AV46 and I got 7K out of the first one, the about 6500 out of the third one. I had a new one on the bike when I sold it, so I don't know about that one obviously. I always ran about 38 in the rear and found it to be sticky enough to get it to the edge of the tire and drag the underside of the fairing on both sides. Too low of a pressure will greatly reduce the mileage of a tire. Oh, bo burnouts with any of them, but always hard on the throttle when accelerating.

If they are not bright enough, there is only two possibilities.......either the bulbs are not the correct voltage (extremely unlikely) or there is not enough voltage to the bulb. That opens up several possibilities.......dirty connectors, bad ground, etc.

Damn Peter, I clicked on the link in your post and was just wondering when you got the Ultra Classic?

I've got two 1000RR's and one is a dedicated track bike that I'm putting together. I will be using a 180 on the rear this coming Track season for quicker turn in or the new 190/55 which mimics the 180/55 profile to a great degree.

It's all good.......I can post a pic!

IIRC....'93 through '95 was the years that work with the XX. The later models of the 900RR was a different lenght center to center on the mounting

Use one or two rubber hose washers, whatever is needed to make the bulb fit tight when the spring clip is closed. Obviously, you cut the washer, preferrably on an angle, and then slip it over the wires going to the light. I ride a 1000RR and I needed two washers on mine......YMMV

At the risk of being repetitive here, I just discovered another "spacer" solution for the bulb to spring clip problem. I received my HID kit today and was doing some expermenting tonight with the bulb fit and discovered that something that most of you probably have at home will work. A common garden hose washer, like the one that you use when you connect your hose to the faucet or sprayer on the end of your hose, will work. I took two of them and split them open and put on the end of the capsule. I then installed the bulb (capsule) into the socket and placed the spring clip down on top of the capsule with the hose washers in place. A very nice tight fit and absolutely NO bulb movement. This on a CBR1000RR, but I believe that it will be exactly the same as on the BlackBird. Hope this helps.

That would probably depend on your local electrical codes and/or what is in effect in the location of the project. You certainly want to have conduit in all the areas that there is going to be concrete, just in case something happens to the wiring.....at a later date you can pull out the old wiring and replace it with new wiring. If it is "code" legal, I would probably use plastic conduit as opposed to rigid or even thinwall.

I would have to recommend against the use of a megger on residential wiring, especially if the house is older. Plus, if there is some sort of defect behind the plaster or drywall or etc. how ya going to find it when it's covered....AND you may weaken the insulation on the wires enough with the megger that you actually CAUSE a problem! Just something to think about.

I've never used the Diablo, but I've got the Corsa on my 1000RR which makes some serious HP. I presently have about 2600 miles on it and two track days and I'd say there is probably 1000 miles or so left on the tire. Keep in mind, I've been running 33 lbs of pressure on the front and rear for the TDs. Hope this helps.

If you are truly concerned, put a REAL multimeter (volt meter) on the battery leads and see what you've got, not some voltage readout that was an afterthought installed in a radar detector.

Nothing worthwhile to contribute as far as why the oily stuff going on,.....but, I did want to thank you for posting a picture of my old XX. God, that was/is a good looking setup with the MIGS. I'm sure the new owner.....2wheeldeal thinks so too.

There are so many guys on this board that run synthetic that it would probably be impossible to figure out. I ran syn in my '99XX for 19,000 miles before selling it. Just go buy some and put it in, then get ready for smoother shifting and longer intervals between oil changes.

I the same Vista on my '99 XX before I sold it and now have one on my 1000RR. It's not every day that you see one on a 1000RR. Course, it's not every day you see an old man like me on a 1KRR.

Vicodin can be your friend!!! 8) It kept me from going crazy with pain when I totalled my bike and screwed up my shoulder in May. Just don't take em on an empty stomach! Wow!

Stock for stock, the FJR' claimed HP is at 145.....and the Bird is at approx. 136 to 138 HP.

I'm not familiar with the Yammy, but Honda definitely has the key code on the side of the ignition switch. Sorry to hear of your "loss".

I switched my 1000RR to Syn at 800 miles. The previous owner had dyno oil in it. Everything was going just fine until I hit about 25XX miles, then...................................................I totalled the bike! But, the engine was running good before I did!!

You could always buy a Harley Davidson "Screaming Eagle" air filter kit. Most H.D. guys say that makes their bikes as fast as the Jap Crap!!! :shock:

All I can tell you Furbird,.....you need to read the entire article and THEN see if you feel differently about Snell Cert. and such

Wow Joe, you have ESP(N) or something. :shock:

K K wrote: Now I'm no rocket science major, but, you've got a leak somewhere. If you are 100% sure that your gage is working properly, it time for the soap and water and look for the bubbles.

Sounds to me like a reasonable fee.........if they are installing a set of Ohlin front forks!!

I switched to Honda HP4 on my 1000RR this last oil change and the bike only had 900 miles on it. I'll go back to the Mobil 1 15w-50 when I do the next one.