beondwacko

Helvet , I'd like to fill the entire space in the reflector area with minimal clearances between the LED's. Really pack em' in there tight if I can. And for the running light in the lower section , some how draw up a double X for a pattern. Rossodave, I like your idea of not running them at full intensity. Possibly 2/3 or 20ma will give a decent result especially because they will be grouped on the board so tightly. XXL , Isn't there a law or formula that states when you have common static loads connected in paralell that the resistance drops with the addition of more devices connected across the whole circuit ?? Also , Duh.................... I swear , if these were just light bulbs , something in my head thinks it would be more simple, but with the LED's needing to have both voltage and amperage limited, it's just different.

bartonmd wrote: Standard LED's want ~20mA of current each (your datasheet will tell you) Wire them in parallel (all to one positive and all to one negative) 14.3V/20mA = 715 ohms So , I'm going to be using 30ma peices, and at 70 units on one circuit, 14.3/30ma = 476 ohms ? Now is that per unit , or how does that apply to paraell as well ?

I didn't want to clog the pub with techno gibber jabber. I figured it was better to correspond via PM and save all the others , but now on the other hand , it might be cool to have others put their spin on this ! Rossodave asked first if he could offer any help. This is what I wrote to him. Dave, YOU'RE A LIFE SAVER !!!! I'm going to be building a couple of boards with LED's as an insert into a clear 99'-04' XX tail light. My first question is that I need a formula to come up with the resistance values for the LED's listed just below. Product Description Emitted Color : ULTRA RED Size (mm) : 5mm Lens Color : Water Clear Peak Wave Length (nm) : 640 ~ 645 Forward Voltage (V) : 1.8 ~ 2.2 Reverse Current (uA) : <=30 Luminous Intensity Typ Iv (mcd) : Average in 5000 Life Rating : 100,000 Hours Viewing Angle : 20 ~ 25 Degree Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C) Max Power Dissipation : 80mw Max Continuous Forward Current : 30mA Max Peak Forward Current : 75mA Reverse Voltage : 5~6V Lead Soldering Temperature : 240°C (<5Sec) Operating Temperature Range : -25°C ~ +85°C Preservative Temperature Range : -30°C ~ +100°C I'm planning in wiring them in paralell probably in groups of 10, but possibly more. I know that you need to use a resistor to limit the current, and these all come with resistors. The question is I need to know with an input voltage of 12.5v - 13.8v and 10 led's wired in paralell what value resistors I would need. I assume that the same formula could be use to figure more or less LED's in the circuit as well. Now , below here are the other version of LED's that I'll be installing for the turn signal indicators ( seperate circuit ). They seem to have the same requirements for power. Product Description Emitted Color : ORANGE Size (mm) : 8mm Lens Color : Water Clear Peak Wave Length (nm) : 615 ~ 620 Forward Voltage (V) : 1.8 ~ 2.2 Reverse Current (uA) : <=30 Luminous Intensity Typ Iv (mcd) : Average in 5000 Life Rating : 100,000 Hours Viewing Angle : 20 ~ 25 Degree Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C) Max Power Dissipation : 80mw Max Continuous Forward Current : 30mA Max Peak Forward Current : 75mA Reverse Voltage : 5~6V Lead Soldering Temperature : 240°C (<5Sec) Operating Temperature Range : -25°C ~ +85°C Preservative Temperature Range : -30°C ~ +100°C Dave , I'm also looking into building a seperate control board that will function as a brake light modulator. What I'm looking for it to do is to for the first 2 seconds of brake light circuit activation, I'd like it to pulse for 250ms on / 250ms off......then after the first two seconds of pulsing , go to full on. This would be a nice add on , but it won't break the design if it's not incorporated into the final result. Now , I'm not sure if I am to add up all the led's current draw to come up with a total, or if there is another formula to figure that one out. The only reason I would think that I would need to do that is for the Modulator circuit. 3.6 amps total draw based on 120 led's with a individual draw of 30ma just doesn't sound right. The load sounds high for just led's. If you have the patience for answering these and a few more questions that I'll have along the way , it would be really great. I'll of course post a ton of pics and drop names at the end of all the folks who deserve praise for advising and helping me. BTW, the design plan is as follows. Gut a factory housing of reflector ( you can seperate the lens from the housing by putting it into nearly boiling water ) and remove the reflector assembly. I sourced out 2 different types of circuit boards at radio shack both of different sizes, 1 has multipbe busses , the other is plain w/780 mounting holes. I'm going to have to measure up which one will work out better. I'll plan a division of the led's for running light and brake light probably a 30/70 split. Then along the left and right sides of the boards, there will be 2 vertical rows of amber leds ( 10 per side ) that will function as indicators. I'm also playing with the idea of having a symbol of sorts for the running light. Maybe an X in the lower portion of the tail light. How does all this sound? Do-able easily in it's construction , but I need a little help with the planning. Thanks Dave. Sorry this ran so long This make any sense yet ????

Left hole ,, not right hole

Sorry about the sig. I'll resize tonight when I get home.

Hi again guys/ladies, Does anyone in here have any electronic engineering experience? I went to school a long ass time ago for Audio engineering and had to take a bunch of electronic theory classes , but forgot most of what I've learned since then. If there is any lurkers who know their stuff, PM me please. I've got a few questions RE: project LED tail light with paralell wiring and resistors. THanks in advance. Also , if anyone here on the board knows of a member who isn't too active but knows his stuff could you forward his name so I can contact them ? Adam

I did mine this last sunday. It was more work to pull off the fairing on the right side than it was to change the CCT. It's quieter, and maybe smoother too.

Damm, I was only going 5 over the posted officer ! You're correct.

John, I'm in for one please! I had written to you in another post to PM in my direction. What are you up to this Sunday? You're heading up here you wrote in this post , so I guess you have plans & won't be able to go out for a leisure ride. Drop me a line. Cell. 631-680-6166 Adam

John, Want to go riding this Sunday ?? Send me a PM and let me know. The weather is supposed to be good early in the day. Maybe a lake run then lunch? Are there some good riding areas down by you? I'd take the ride. You are only about an hour away from here.

Someone bump this thread into the Pub please. I've seen this bike. Very Nifty and Ultra BLACK.

Flip the leads over from high to low and low to high. See if it does it then. If it does, it's the lamp.

Thanks for the info. I had also read that in a few old posts that I found this morning. Keep it together untill it's don , then pull the pin......Just like a grenade !!

I know the plugs have nothing to do with the other, but while I'm in that wrenching mood, I should just do it. I did some searching in the archives and found some really good info along with pics that will make the job that much easier. Actually , I should do the "whole" maintence deal and set a full day aside. CCT,Oil & Filter, coolant change, plugs, clean the K&N, and do the 6mm shim to the rear shock. Thanks for the info about the inability of adjustment on the factory CCT. Any quick tips or tricks I should know about that have not been posted about the CCT?

I be searching some more for this soon enough, but I have one quick question about the Cam Chain Tensioner on the XX. The only experience I have had with a CCT was on my old CB1100F. It needed occasional adjustment, and was a spring loaded unit. Is there any way to adjust the CCT on the XX or is it more of a case that when the chain starts making noise, the unit needs to be replaced? Is it a hydraulic unit or spring pretensioned? I believe mine has started making some noise ( light ratteling, high pitched metallic sounding, between 2,500 - 5K rpm ) and not that it's gotten any louder recently, I "hear" it more because I'm listening for it more often. If I have to swap it out, it'll be a good excuse to change the plugs as well. Thanks in advance.

Not here. I had the PR's mounted about 400 miles ago , and the bike is as smooth as ever regardless of speed. I agree with the general feel being excellent. Sounds as if you may need a rebalance. Odd order harmonic going on there.

Use the search function in the garage forum. You'll find it posted numerous times.

Thanks John , I'll be looking for your posting !

Speaking of MPG ,,, I commuted this whole last week ( except for one day ) and I was very gentle on the throttle. I only avaraged 34mpg.

Unless I'm blind ,,, I didn't spot in on his website.

John , You have a hook up on Mirror extenders ?? I'm interested. Info ??

OK , I have a decent knowledge of residential wiring , and experience with different brands of switchgear ( Sold the stuff for 5 years ). What brand of panel is it? Is there moisture contamination in the panel? Is the house wired in Aluminum? Is it an old house with no grounding? Are the earth grounds in good condition? Are the cold water grounds in good condition? Most problems ( single circuit at a time ) occur at outlets from what I have seen. Outlets that have been backwired ( quick connect style ) are prone to failure if they have been overloaded at one time or another. I would start off with what I listed first. Not seeing the house or it's problems first hand makes it almost impossible to diagnose.

Pete , The bike would only be fed propane at the air intake. Even then , it would not be on full blast , maybe 1/3 open at he valve , and only introduced while cranking. I know, it does sound freaky but I'd rather use propane than starting fluid.

Fonzie , A lot of guys may frown on this one ( tip ) but it was the only thing that would get my old CB1100F running in the cold of winter. My bike was jetted with a stage 1 jet kit , and when it was cold ( 40 or lower ) and I had not started it in a few days , that sumbitch would never fire. I used to use a propane torch to get it to fire up. I would literally feed the bike propane with 1/2 choke , and I would be able to get it running. I don't really recomend you doing this unless you are comfortable with the idea, but Hence the screen name .......................... Also , when you park the bike, and don't plan on using it for a little while and that being that your bike is carbed, turn off the fuel petcock. If you have a lazy needle in one of the carbs , that will flood the motor over time as well.

Also , OBBY posted this in the for sale section. http://www.gdlcycles.com/HondaBikes/CBR1100XX.htm you may be able to find some stuff here. A.