bhanxx

+1 on stick and turnin, luv the PR rear / PP front combo (1st time), best setup ever by far on XX 4 me... Only downside is it instills so much confidence my cornering speed has gone up 5-10 when i keep telling myself be more sane :icon_doh:

I used the 2.5 for the Wilburs, what Dale said, Silokene RSF?, huge improvement over stock, no problem w chatter.

I just ran this exact combo at OzarXX. Worked great, stuck well in the corners, do it! Me too, worked well! Mike +1, luv dat front stick , i'll be sticking w that combo, best ever by far.... the power front stick is definitely better than road front plus it's turnin feels quicker, road rear has always had plenty of stick 4 me. With those Michelins, Wilbers front and back (+5mm) and Galfer SS fronts; best running gear i've run on a bike now back to work :icon_wall:

Yep, no problem. I rarely ride at night when i can use hi, so i just did the lo HID which works fantastic for nite riding and i run modulating hi during the day. The yellowish modulating halagon hi really contrasts with the white bright HID lo and makes u conspicious. Oh yeah, the Signal Dynamics modulators are more difficult to install, but ya gotta luv da extra features and flexibility.

Yep, just wired the Signal Dynamics modulator to high and HID to low, no problemo, works great...

it took him so long because the wife was holding the tank and he had to get his own beer

I've use SeaFoam for winter storage (and regular cleaning) in all my toys for years and everything fires up immediately next spring. I always thought SeaFoam as a stabilizer too. See bottom of link: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpConsumer.htm

This thread is quickly losing it's technical value, what were chatting about again?

I don't recall any noises from my numerous sets of Roads. The front has never cupped and every set have remained smooth right down to the last gram of rubber, obviously with the some of the grip decreasing on the back end of their life. If there is a noise, i would guess it's coming from front due to it's tread pattern. I going w a Road rear and Power front this time (FedX should deliver today) to get more stick up front. Will be interesting to see how this combo works out for handling, stick and mileage. Testing will be done at OzarXX

Or is it the oil check plug? Where is that one again? :icon_think:

Definitely do the relay, i believe the horn will be louder too, someone correct me if i'm wrong. Plus reduce risk of frying oem wiring (which is considerably thinner than wiring recommended by horn mfg). Hooking up relay is super simple. Horn leads go to 85 and 86 (doesn't matter which, plug'n'play), incoming hot lead hooks to 30 and outgoing hot lead to horns hook to 87. Note: If running hot lead direct from battery (to relay 30), make sure the fuse is very close to battery to keep unfused wiring as short as possible. This is another huge advantage of auxiliary fuse block, all your wiring is protected. Sounds like it's time for auxiliary fuse block and some barrier strips from Radio Shack. Blue Sea has some really nice fuse blocks for reasonable price plus some that have have grounding integrated.

Thanks Joe, that was very useful. I err on the loose side for chain adjustment, so that was probably the clank i heard. Now i have that warm fuzzy feeling knowing da bird is not making any naughty noises. :icon_think: Hhhhmmm, now off to www.swmototires.com to order a Power front and Road rear to get da bird in proper fighting form for OzarXX, hehehehehehhehe...

Can somebody describe the undampened front sprocket noise? And then compare it to a CCT going out noise and the normal clutch rattling noise when being engaged? I recently rode XX w/o earplugs wearing helmet (testing brake bleed) and was hearing slight clanking noises at low speeds (35 or less). It's the 1st time i've ridden XX w/o earplugs after going to aftermarket front sprocket. I just trying to figure out what noises are what. Virtually all the time i wear helmet/earplugs and all i hear is that damn full yoshi howling away. Thanks in advance...

The Touring LIP comes off easily w 4 velcro dots and top 2 bolt/nuts of windscreen. Very stable mounting. Could use Touring LIP during +75 runs and oem screen rest of time. I leave mine on the time. The Regular LIP comes off even easier, just 4 velcro dots. Not sure how much protection u would lose or mounting stability, but the LIP boys would be able to brief u.

Yep, just flushed the rear system. Everything worked great during commute this morning. Still not sure what i did wrong 1st time other than 1st time doing a LBS system going thru the learning curve. SS fronts sharpen things up nicely.

The right front center was good, full fluid, no air bubbles . The left front center was good yesterday, i thought :icon_hand: , but rechecked and nothing but air today :icon_think: , took forever to pull thru fluid and able to bleed. Look solid no bubbles . Pull some more thru rear outside, was there immediately, bleed a couple of times no air bubbles . Pull some more thru rear center, was there immediately, bleed a couple of times, no air bubbles Test ride, rear is working about 90% on 1st depression, just a bit better on 2nd depression. So making major progress . Will ride a few days and see how she holds. Any suggestions super appreciated where to go from here. I guessing best bet is to ride few days and go thru bleeding process again, right? AMA Superbike on now, Spies got the hole shot...

Thanks, looks like i need to pump thru more fluid and bleed more.

Okydoky, Xman and me got the Galfer SS Fronts installed as well as all fluid for front, rear and clutch replaced. My rear brake barely works on 1st push, about 80% on 2nd push and 100% on 3rd. This being my first time bleeding LBS, it's obvious I screwed up somewhere (we were following oem manual rotation). I'm assuming somewhere in that LBS plumbing nightmare is some air that ain't suppose to be there. I thought everything was looking great thru the tubes b4 final closure of bleeder valves. Any recommendations will be mucho appreciated (e.g. which bleeder valve to start with, rotation order, etc.). Or just start over on rear bleeders in oem recommended sequence? Thanks in advance...

How many ounces of brake fluid does one need to do the front and rear brakes plus the clutch? We will be putting in Galfer SS front brake lines during this process too. Thanks in Advance...

Jaws sells the Easy Bleed assist kit, basically tubes attached to a speedbleeder-like valve. Haven't tried it yet, but will this weekend, nice simple design at reasonable price. http://www.jaws-motorcycles.co.uk/birdservice2.htm

I could have sworn I saw some funky shaped LED 1157 bulbs that would work in that application. Instead of the lights being straight out on the end, and pointing into the mirror housing, they have an L shape to them that points the LED out of the turn signal lense. I'll have to look around and see if I can find that bulb, I forgot where I saw it. http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html scroll down a ways to find 90 degree

I know EBC HHs is same part # for front and back, but was thinking the oem back was notched and the fronts were not. Thanks in advance.

Joe wrote: :raped: DOH, time to start worrying....

:thumbsup: :allhail: Major Kudos on the great writeup and pics (Proof is I understood it 1st time through which says oh so much, o never mind :roll: )... One question regarding the drilling a hole in the 'harden' tab for cruise chain cable: Could one use a dremel to cut the notch, slip in the the chain and solder gap to prevent slipping out? Mucho thanks for sharing the effort of ingenuity.

Ok, that does it, i'm changing my procedure. Drain the oil when cold and have 2 beers (vs. 1) to compensate for the extra drain time. Avoids hot oil and headers too. Question, do you have to compensate for drain time based on oil weight and type (e.g. synthetic vs. mineral, 5w-40 vs. 15w-50, etc.)?