MrBadExxample

There's a family run bike shop Orange County NJ that can hook up up. They're a bit argumentative and a little pricey.

IIRC, the manual has instructions for making the CCT locking tool. I literally said WTF when I read that. Anyway it's not necessary. Screw the CCT all the way in and hold it in place, ala the Redbird method. I clamped the screwdriver to the frame, a slight variation on what Redbird's photo illustrates.

OK, what do you need powder coated? I need stuff to practice on.

I'll take it. PM Sent

Neat bike, someone's gonna take you up on your offer.

That's what I do. If the valve cover gasket has come off the valve cover I use a small amount of sealant to hold it to the cover. I believe it comes from the factory that way. I also apply a small amount of sealant between the valve cover gasket and head at the base of each half-circle.

Maybe the front tire is over inflated? Perhaps from seating the bead.

Auction it on eBay

You can cut an allen wrench to make a hex screw bit.

Well it depends on your definition of reasonable. Here's a couple of options: 1. Change to linear springs. The XX uses progressive springs. IMHO the first stage of the spring is too soft. If you change springs you'll also have to cut the spacer, no big deal. I cut the spacer so that I needed to compress the springs about an inch to screw on the fork cap. I also use 10wt fork oil. This option is approximately $80 2. Do option #1, plus change the rebound and compress valves and associated shim stacks to the racetech gold valves and shim stacks. ~ $350

Could be the petcock. Specifically check the vacuum line to the #2 vacuum port. Also ensure that the petcock diaphragm is okie dokie. If you suck on the petcock vacuum line fuel should flow out of the two fuel lines.

Nothing, but it makes people bump my threads.

If you post this as a seperate thread, you'll likely get more responses. Give the search fundtionality a try as well. Your question has been asked before, but it might not be easy to find a keyword to search with. Anyho.... The XX is a solid dependable bike. Even after 50K miles many still run like new. But there are a few issues to be aware of. On many bikes the cam chain tensioner (CCT) needed to be replaced. But don't worry, the part is only $35 and takes 10 minutes to replace. The early style (finless) regulator/rectifier on 97/98 failed too often. Honda has since supersceded the part. Still, many owners opt to replace it with a Yamaha R1 R/R. Apparently it's cheaper and more reliable. Search this forum, you'll find all the info you need. When evaluating any used bike, check for missing gears. It's rare on the XX, but I know of two that developed this problem. Both were ridden hard.

Yours

It means the "S"idestand (kickstand) is down. Can also stand for Sexy, Shit or Syphilitic, depending on its mode.

I have a tin from my grandfather labeled "common pins". Poignant I thought. Got it! finally after 90 minutes. I couldn't resolve the Eric reference at first - Evil.

2002 Cowling Stay. Slight damage on upper left corner. I bolted this to my 97/98 XX and hung an upper cowl and instrument cluster on it. The cowl fit fine, lined up with the other components as expected. I also discovered that a 97/98 oil cooler cannot hang from a 2002 cowling stay. So here it is. If you discover that this stay is tweaked and doesn't fit, no problem I'll send you a refund.

I should have been more explicit. The prices quoted above include installation.

Ya know, alot of guys hate philips head screws, but I really hate them. They strip. It takes way to much force to turn them. But Honda loves them, especially the small, easy-to-strip ones. Cotter pins also suck. They break after about four uses and scratch your hands with every use. Whenever possible, I replace 'em. Currently I've got enough replacement hardware to create a few bolt kits. All fasteners have socket cap (allen) heads and are made from 18-8 stainless steel. Add a reply or send me a PM if you want one. 97/98 kit $15 (shipped): Five Hairpin Cotters - replaces the sharp little bastards on each footpeg pin and one on the rear brake master cylinder push rod. Hairpin cotters are much faster to use, don't cut you hands, and can be re-used hundreds of times. 13 M4x16mm bolts - replaces the easy-to-strip philips head screws that secure the carb diaphragm covers, plus one extra 12 M5x15mm bolts - replaces the philips head screws that secure the float bowls 4 M4x25mm bolts - replaces the philips head screws on the airbox to carb bands. Makes it much faster to install/remove the airbox 5 M4x12mm bolts - replaces the philips head screws on each master cylinder reservoir cover - cone shaped head. Uncoated SS, meaning they're not black. 99+ FI kit $9 (shipped): Five Hairpin Cotters - replaces the sharp little bastards on each footpeg pin and one on the rear brake master cylinder push rod. Hairpin cotters are much faster to use, don't cut your hands, and can be re-used hundreds of times. 4 M4x25mm bolts - replaces the philips head screws on the airbox to carb bands. Makes it much faster to install/remove the airbox 5 M4x12mm bolts - replaces the philips head screws on each master cylinder reservoir cover - cone shaped head. Uncoated SS, meaning they're not black. EDIT: The first 10,000 customers will get their kits in a weed-quality ziploc bag.

It's yours, PM me your address.

On my project XX bike, I suspected the clutch rattle was a bit excessive. It was; here's why. Clutch Disc B

1. apply rubbing alcohol to the bars 2. slide the grip on 3. blow compressed air under the grip to evaporate the alcohol It's the best method I've found. The grips are stuck for life.

Wow, great price on some really rare parts.

Welcome Nitey So whatcha gonna do with that SV? You do know they're pieces of shit, so how much you want for it? Just Kidding. But I am looking for a deal on an SV650.

Adjusting the counterbalance shafts might help.