MrBadExxample

Since I don't know any better, I follow Honda's lead, i.e. if they're out of spec I put them within spec.

I made a dipstick with a coat hanger. Or have an assistant shine a flashlight down the opening while you view the marks from the other side.

Last I knew Warchild had it, but we haven't heard from him in awhile. I exchanged a couple PMs with Warchild over a year ago, he didn't think he had it, but couldn't remember to whom he sent it. I think it's safe to declare the shim kit MIA. BTW, I couldn't find an aftermarket kit with shims in 0.005 increments. Only Honda had those. PM me when you know what shims you need. I may have 'em.

I've done it twice, it's not so bad. You have the manual, no? When I adjust valves I aim to have all the valves wind up with the same clearance, even if that means changing shims of clearances within spec. May as well once you've pulled the cams. Also I adjust them as close as possible to the loose end of the spec, as valves tend to tighten over time.

PM Sent for OEM Windshield

+1 measure the oil level from the top, aka air gap.

I used a 28mm 12 pt socket that I bought at Sears. I'm pretty sure it was a 28mm, can someone confirm this? You'll also need a clutch locking tool. I have a homemade one if you need it, works great.

A local glass shop replaced mine for $10.00. If you look very, very closely you can see where the glass doesn't tuck under the plastic lip around the edges. But other than that, it looks stock.

PM Sent

This came with a bike I purchased last year, but I never use it. It's several years old, but perfectly functional. Hopefully I've priced it accordingly. Sale includes a RAM bracket and power cord. Specs, Manual, Downloads, etc --> Garmin Link

PM Sent

Angee, A friend of mine has a 2003 SV650S with 27 miles on it, yes only 27 miles. He has way too many toys and never got around to playing with it. As you would expect it's like new. He asked me to sell it for him, I think he wants around $4500 for it. I know it's a little high for an '03 SV650S, but it's $2500 less than a new one. The bike is with me in Crozet VA (22932).

No, just a really shitty memory. IIRC, my favorite movie is Momento. But I'm not sure about that. Note to self: never work on the bike without checking the manual.

Off the top of my head - 19mm for the bolt head, 24mm for the nut. The chain adjuster bolts are 8mm. Torque on the nut is 80 ft/lbs.

I could apply a "Hello Kitty" theme to the jacket. Would that help?

Stupid Question #1, Can you tell us more about the laptop? Specs? Operating System? I'd like to get another computer for my kids. They only need something internet capable. You know, so the pedophiles can reach them.

As always, your wish is my command. Thank You, I think it's just thuuuupppper. I wear it to the Blue Oyster Club every night.

Joe Rocket Speedmaster perforated leather jacket, US size 48, Euro size 58. It's a few years old, but only worn a couple of times. It's not even broken in yet, looks/feels like new - no rash, no tears, no holes, no stains, no issues. It's a very snug 48. I normally wear a 48 jacket and this one fits, but it's snug. If you wear a 46 or 44 it would probably be a perfect fit. $100.00 Blue/White/Black and a little silver piping Full 360 zipper and 8" zipper Armor/Padding in shoulders, elbows, back and small pads near the collarbone Adjustable waist 1.3 - 1.4mm thick leather

If no one else wants it, I'll call dibs on the oil pan. PM Sent.

I've owned three different XXs. On each one the inside left muffler almost touches the swingarm. The clearance is around 5-10mm. A left side tipover can push the muffler even closer. Here's how I created more clearance. Loosen the muffler inlet clamp, footpeg nut and mid-muffler attachment bolt. Rotate the muffler up and away (to the outside). Tighten down the inlet clamp first, the footpeg bolt second and mid-muffler bolt last. Also consider loosening the footpeg bracket itself. Basically loosen everything, re-position the muffler and tighten everything, starting at the front and working to the rear.

PM Sent. I think you'll want to use a 99+ rear fender, the 97/98 one won't have the right shape for the various FI components. You're talking about the molded plastic piece under the seat that holds the battery, relays, ECU, etc., correct?

On our John Deer B tractor, that was the SOP for mounting tires. One person sprayed lots of ether into the tire, the other tossed in a match, works great.

Here in the Shenandoah Valley we just finished a nice warm weekend. I got about 200 miles in. I hope you didn't miss the opportunity.

And a 97/98 axle, IIRC. I wasn't sure about that. I think the only difference is that the wider part (left side) of the 99+ axle is 10mm longer, but the overall axle length is the same. Which means a 97/98 wheel will work on a 99+ axle, if you also use the 99+ left side spacer, which is 10mm shorter than the 97/98 left side spacer. Someone please correct me if I'm mistaken (like I even need to ask).

I have a stripped one for a 97/98 XX. It does not have rotors or wheel bearings. And I'm not sure if I have an internal spacer for it. You can use it on your '03, but you'd need 97/98 rotors and wheel bearings.