MrBadExxample

Bump for reduced price - $3100

SOLD. I'll take it. PM Sent

I've got one. But it's probably for a 97/98. If they're compatible, or can be spiced into your pigtail, you can buy it from me cheap.

Stop being silly. I just can't quit you guys. BTW, don't you remember the little copper SV I had in WV? That's basically the replacement. True, it's not the same, but I don't have time for long trips anymore. Besides the SV is really at home on the roads 'round here.

23 photos here: Picasa Web Album Racetech Forks: $320 I rebuilt these forks in Spring '07 using Honda OEM inner and outer bushings, Honda OEM fork seals and 10wt fork oil. I also replaced the stock rebound and compression valves with the Racetech gold valves, using the shim stacks Racetech recommends for a 195 lb. moderate street rider. I also replaced the OEM progressive springs with Racetech constant rate (1.0 kg/mm) springs. The valve faces were polished with 2000 grit sandpaper to ensure a tight seal against the shim stack. The damper rod was also polished. There's a steel washer between the space and the fork cap to prevent the steel spacer from digging into the fork cap. The current spacer creates approximately two cm. of preload. These modifications greatly improve the front end of the XX. I have put approximately 9K miles on these forks since then. Included in this sale are all the OEM parts (valves, springs, spacers), the extra Racetech shims should you need to change the shimming and the instructional video. The parts alone are $350+. Installation could easily cost another $300. Givi Wingrack2 with mounting brackets and hardware: $200 This is the Givi N140 Wingrack II. Includes top and side luggage racks and integrated turn signals. Also includes the brackets and hardware needed to mount the Wingrack to a CBR1100XX. Basically this is everything you need to bolt the rack onto an XX. These racks hold Monokey cases (not included). Very solid racks. The best new, online price for this rack and brackets that I've found is $300+. Throttlemeister AHR2-H (heavy): $85 Purchased new 18 months ago, works flawlessly, like new. Includes everything needed for both clip-ons. Also includes removal tool, instructions, parts list and some disclaimer bullshit. This is the heavy model. Buell Lowering Pegs: $40 Yes, I'm charging more than retail for these. Why? They've already been modified to fit the XX OEM rearsets. Normally the pegs have to worked on for an hour or so to make them fit an XX. Also included are bronze sleeves to fit the OEM XX footpeg pin. Basically this set will fit directly into your rearsets. Unlike other lowering brackets, the Buell pegs do not hit the kickstand and work with the OEM return spring. IMHO, this is the best comfort mod you can make to the XX. Crash Shrooms: $25 Like new, never tested. They're not as heavy duty as a full frame slider, but they're cheaper and do not require cutting the fairings. Includes mounting hardware (two bolts). More photos of all the farkles here: Picasa Web Album

For Sale 1997 CBR1100XX, 57,xxx miles. Great bike, I love it, but I don't have much time to ride it. And, I could use the funds for a track bike project. Very clean and in great shape - starts immediately, smooth idle, no leaks, lots of power, smooth shifting. Basically, everything on this bike works like it should, no problems, no surprises. All maintenance is up to date. In spring 2007, (9K miles ago), I did the following maintenance: new battery new regulator/rectifier, the old one still works and is included with the bike. new chain, DID530-110ZVM2 new sprockets, 18T/45T (steel) new spark plugs, NGK Iridium new air filter, Honda OEM filter new clutch and brake fluid new coolant, Honda 50/50 premix new brake pads - EBC HH new wheel bearings new tapered steering head bearings new BWM sport touring grips new cam chain tensioner valve adjustment - intake valves were within spec, six exhaust valves needed slightly thinner shims. new inner and outer fork bushings, Honda OEM new fork seals, Honda OEM new fork oil, 10wt Extras frame sliders frame plugs powder coated fork lowers (black) spare regulator/rectifier two used pilot power rear tires (180/55ZR-17), both have less than 500 miles on them. Last winter the upper cowl and lower (side) fairings were repainted. The painter did an ok job. A foot away you can find lots of little flaws - some lint, overspray in a couple places. Also notice that I did not put the decals back on, I prefer the subtle, stealth look. The lower right side fairing mounting tab is missing. It's been like that for years and doesn't affect the stability of the right side fairing. Here's a link to an online album with 68 photos in a couple different lighting conditions. Picasa Web Album - use the magnifying glass icon to zoom/pan. A replacement for the missing bolt on the rear grab rail has already been ordered. Apparently I lost one of the OEM bolts while the Wingrack was on the bike. I'm also selling the farkles from this bike in another thread. If you buy any of them, I'll put them back on (if you so desire). Also I can help some with delivery or whatever logistical support you may require. Asking $3100

I have three 8' dual florescent fixtures in my garage. An 8' tube of light makes the light more ambient, i.e. not single point of light, which creates harsh shadows.

There's a lot of dumbasses in the world.

There's a new road track in SNJ, no? You see where I'm going with this......

There's an adjuster for the "go fast" cable at the switch housing (on the handlebar). Loosen it as much as possible, that will facilitate cable removal. I usually remove the cables after I've pulled the carbs out of the intake boots, much easier.

Adding the waist and inseam sizes of the pants might be helpful.

Anyone got a pair of rear turn signals they're not using? Perhaps you've replaced the OEM ones with sexy aftermarket ones? Anyhow, if you do, let me know the condition and price. Thank You

Check the codes. If you don't have an OBDC II code reader, some auto parts stores will read the codes for you. My bet is that a sensor has gone bad, causing both your check engine light and surging. Around here Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone will read the codes for free.

I dunno, maybe the Transformer (or is it an Autobot?) whichever, can deploy a nanobot into the stuck caliper and push it out. I saw it in a movie once. ok seriously, Shove the other two pistons back in. Secure the two pistons you put back in. Remove the bleeder screws. Apply air pressure to the bleeder screw hole for the outer pistons. The stuck one should pop free. Now remove the ones you stuck back in, which should be easier to get out that the stuck one was.

Agreed, that is not a blackbird ECU. Besides it's from Fremont cycle, well known assclowns. fremont cycles I want what they're smoking, Fremont cycle

Overcoming the inertia and direction change of shaft drive typically costs about 20 hp. No thanks. I'll stick with a chain Be sure to research final drive failures on the first generation and evo paralever designs.

You live in AK, no? Plain water would freeze and water wetter does not affect the freezing temp of water, so add some Honda 50/50 premixed coolant. Don't use automotive coolant.

Here's a much alternative to buying the kit. It's not as pretty, but the result is the same. Link

I have those same stands, and enthusiastically recommend them as well. Mine are black, hence are slightly faster.

Yep, same bike. Errr. I mean scooter. The tanks holds 2.1 gallons of gasoline, or nitro methane. Whichever you prefer. Fly in & ride home? Absolutely. Ed Otto rode a 250cc Honda Scooter in the 1995 Iron Butt Rally. He finished 22nd, 9,361 miles in 11 days. Link

SOLD Pending Funds Should young children and women worship the ground you walk on, but don't? Are you plagued by a disturbing lack of vaginal access? Fear Not! Purchase a 1987 Honda Elite 250cc Scooter and say hello the new you - virile, strong like bull, full of confidence. A warrior you are! Well sorta. Anyho.... This scooter has only 500 miles on it. It runs, looks and rides like new. Absolutely no cosmetic, electrical or mechanical problems. In first gear (and it only has one gear) it'll go 65 mph. And get 65 mpg. Ride it down a long incline and it'll hit 70 mph and 100 mpg! Truly amazing! Oh sure, burly, flannel clad men will point out the window of their F350 dually diesel and laugh. You'll shout back "65 mpg biaaaatch!" Who's laughing now, Mr. lumberjack! See the full album here: Picasa Web

Motorcycle Consumer News 2008 Performance Index There's a 60-0 braking data for every bike, check the column headings. TEN BEST 60–0 STOPS 1) 2006 Triumph Speed Triple 104.8' 2) 1999 Triumph Speed Triple 106.7' 3) 1997 F6 Valkyrie 107.4' 4) 1997 Suzuki Marauder 800 107.6' 5) 1998 Honda VFR800FI Interceptor 107.9' 6) 1997 Yamaha YZF600R 108.2' 7) 1999 Suzuki SV650 108.8' 8) 1998 Ducati 750 Monster 109.1' 9) 1997 Suzuki TL1000S 109.4' 10) 2002 Harley-Davidson VRSC V-Rod 109.5' FYI: 1997 CBR1100XX 112.4'

University Motors was sold last year. Our typical discount is gone at least drastically reduced. The return policy was also tightened. Still good service though.

Whoa! don't overdo it. Let's start by turning off "Caps Lock". Baby steps, my friend.

My guess would be a needle valve stuck open that's flooding the carbs. If that's the problem, sometimes tapping on the side of carbs will free it. Also check for gas in the oil, smell the dipstick.