XX4me

Hey I've got a 2002 XX that seems like it runs better than other XXs can I play too?

OK the 7000 ft above sea level explains alot. Yes you will be way down on power. That also explains the reluctance of the bike to hit redline in 6th gear. Less power equals less ability to overcome wind resistance. Unfortunately unless you add a supercharger or a turbo I doubt a PCIII and a pipe will help very much. Nitrous would probably be your best bet. With gas you would be adding oxygen which is what your missing at high altitude. You could probably set it up as a 20 shot or so which might put you back where the XX is at sea level. When I rode with the XX nuts at Cody WY, around 6000ft, a few years ago I was really surprised that I couldn't get the front end up. When we did the Bear Tooth pass, some of the VERY BEST TWISTIES I've ever seen, I tried to keep the RPMs up around 6000 entering the corner so I'd be right in the middle of the power on exit. Seemed to work pretty good so it may be that you just need to run closer to redline. Don't worry it won't hurt the bike.

I watched some of your video and the first thing that comes to mind is you are going to get killed DRIVING ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE ROAD LIKE THAT!!!!!!!!!

Sounds like you need a combination here. Maybe drop some weight with a 4-1 pipe, loose the center stand. The easiest bump in power, not sure how much though, might come from milling the head a few thousands to push the compression up one point to 12.5:1. You might also gain some by looking at the cams since you'd have them out anyway. All this might net you 10-15 horses. I'm not sure the gas would help you with what you describe, it might cause the front to wash out on the exit when the power came on. Have you dropped the forks and added the 6mm spacer under the rear shock?

Well adding S2000 injectors won't do anything unless you also add more air either through a big bore kit or a turbo. I may have the numbers off somewhat but if you stay naturally aspirated and don't put on a big bore kit you will only gain maybe 5-8 horses maxx. That would be installing a pipe and PCIII. You can do a 2mm overbore with increased compression and pipe and probably end up in the 165hp range. If you go all out and do the bigbore kit like Northman did you could gain as much as 65 horsepower. If you opt for the turbo you can move into the 250-300hp range fairly easily. Another option would be to spray Nitrous which might give you as much as 50 horsepower pretty safely and easily.

WOW deja vous! I would swear we talked about this on another thread.

Which is plain horseshit. An engine, when properly worn in, will acheive almost all of its ring seal, the primary contributer to oil consumption, in the first 500 or so miles. Even less if an agressive plan is followed. Beyond that, there is no point in waiting for some mystical milage level. A goodly number of premium cars come, these days, with full synthetic in the crankcase right from the factory. no evidence of excessive oil consumption there. Both my current, street driven BMW motorcycles, with Nikasil liners, a notroiously hard surface, have been run on synthetic oils since their 600 mile service. Neither burns any more than 8oz of oil in 3K miles. This on a relatively high specific output twin cylinder engine that I run pretty hard. Agreed. Most people think that a motor needs to be babied during the first 1000 miles. I think it needs to be run through the full range of rpms. After the first heat cycle of 20 miles varying the rpm up to maybe 3/4s of redline, change the oil. Then run it on up to redline and back down from then on. Just avoid constant rpm droning in the first few hundred miles, changing the oil at 300 miles with synthetic.

Why'd you need a new fuel pressure regulator?

There ain't much room. I have a Summit Racing Special transmission cooler as my heat exchanger for the liquid to air intercooler mounted in front of the radiator. The front fender extender I have hits when I go over larger bumps, but it keeps shit off the turbo. If you look on the inside of the fender you can see where the tire hits the fender. Kinda sucks but I just watch what I drive over. Not sure about the clearance on A to A intercoolers like the ones from MC Express. Look in the photo you can see the stock radiator and in front of it is the trans cooler. The reduced air flow does make it run a little hotter than stock, maybe 5-10 degrees. My intention is to one day design up a exchanger that will fit in the nose so as to free up air flow over the radiator. I may try to fab something using the carbed XX duct work. Notice the new turbo oil drain line?

hahn system fueling diagram. They also suggest a Power Commander for fine tuning.

Make your own header ect. hahn header. I don't even remember how many times I've had that piece welded now. MiDNiTXX had a hahn system and his did the exact same thing. They use cheap mild steel for the header and it just doesn't last. Needs to be stainless.

hahn oil drain line Smoked like a mother fucker after riding if I started it back up too soon. I solved that by getting rid of their line and installing a line from the turbo down to a fitting I tapped into the oil pan. Even with that done she still smoked some so I ran a hose between the PCV outlet on top of the motor down to a fitting between the air filter and the compressor intake. No more smokie. Here's what I did.

You must have something done to the internals or maybe a spacer to lower compression. That just seems to close to the edge. Any idea what your Air Fuel ratio is?

Well you're not running pump gas unless you have H2O and or an intercooler. In which case it's not a standard hahn kit. 11:1 comp and 12psi on pump equals oil smoke out the tail pipe. That is interesting that mine on low boost which is 12-14 lbs runs almost the exact same hp numbers. Mine has 9.5:1 compression pistons

hahn uses a FPR designed and sold by Bell Engineering Group. Corkie Bell is the owner, super nice and extremely helpful. The hahn kit uses the stock regulator mounted on the fuel rail and then adds a rising rate FPR to increase pressure under boost. The tricky part of their "system" is that the stock reg controls pressure up to about 43 lbs, then as boost builds the RR FPR takes over. This can leave a flat spot in the 0-3 psi range. If you try and set it so the FPR comes on sooner it's overly rich at higher levels because you increase the slope or rate of gain. The FPR I have is not the same one sold with the hahn kit. When I was trying to get mine worked out I spent alot of time on the phone with Corkie. One day he said he had this prototype his was building and wondered if I would try it. After working some of the bugs out by sending it back and forth a few times they got it right. It replaces the stock reg and performs both functions with one unit. It acts as a 1:1 reg below atmospheric pressure and a rising rate reg above. It's lunch time so I'll try and get back here later. How many psi boost? What fuel? Is it a plain hahn kit? More info required.

Shit, sorry I just saw this thread. It's real easy, avoid hahn as if it were Dave trying to french kiss you.

1. Mileage will be a little better, maybe one to two MPG. 2.Agreed 3. Mine didn't 4. Again, mine didn't 5. Speedo pickup is off the transmission. If you replace the front with an 18 you'll notice that the indicated speed will be very close to actual speed. It negates the error inherent in the BB speedo. 6. On a stock bird I doubt the top speed will increase much at all. In fact I would tend to think it might drop some due to the higher gearing pushing against the same amount of wind resistance. 7. Depends on the riders driving habits. Personally I think it's a great mod and have no intention of switching mine back to a 17. In fact I still think I need to drop a couple off the rear.

Helvet I have a PCII and a PCIII installed on my 2002 XX. They just plugged in one in front of the other. I use the PCII for adjustments to the ignition timing and the PCIII for adjustments to the injectors.

I have to second what Joe said don't lug the motor and DON'T WORRY ABOUT UPPER RPM. I'm not at home now or I'd post up some info about break-in periods and how babying it can actually decrease performance due to improper seating of the rings. You should ride it using all the RPM range from the start. Change oil at 25 miles to remove any loose metal and again at 300 miles then follow the 3000-5000 mile recommendations. Welcome to the forum!

Here's another example of the hahn genius at work. They figured out that physics don't apply to their systems hence the uphill compressor housing oil drain. In case you don't know this engineering design means your bike smokes like a 2-stroke when you start it up. The chicks really dig that part.

I would feel like I was negligent if I didn't post these pictures in response to the claim hahns are ok. hahns are very poorly designed and manufactured kits. The components they make are from the cheapest material available. The company offers zero customer service. How did MiDNiTXX put it "Please hold while I ignore you". You are buying yourself lots of problems if you choose the hahn kit. One good thing though,thru repetition you'll learn how to take your bike apart and put it back together blindfolded.

If you're handy with tools cut a piece of 1/4" steel in the shape of a U and slide it in after you loosen the top shock mounting bolt. You be able to figure out the size by looking. It really does make a difference.

There is a MOD talked about in some circles that is supposed to gain a few HP. It involves removing the PAIR system and then connecting the two hose fittings on top of the cylinder head with a T that then goes to the valve cover fitting. They call this the PAIR sucker MOD. Basically the theory behind it is it's using the PAIR reed valves in the cylinder head to create a vacuum in the crankcase supposedly creating better seating of the rings thereby increasing HP as much as 3-5 at topend. I say supposedly because I've never seen any DYNO sheets proving it, though I have heard it's done alot for drag racing as a simple HP increase.

If I'm not mistaken the hose attached to the valve cover operates like a PCV valve to remove vapors from the crankcase, the other end is connected to the air box. The PAIR system adds air to the exhaust by way of the vacuum created in the port as the exhaust flows out the header.

Yea what he said