brianmacza

Try HID - have had mine for 45000km and no problems yet

Agree comletely with the Z6 as a kickass tyre... currently have Michilin M3 front, Pilot Road 2 rear which is good and wears well, but not as confidence inspiring as the Z6 f/r combo was. Avoid Bridgestone BT016 like the plague if you're not an agressive rider (takes too long to get heat into it and its as slippy as baby snot when cold)

I bought old conveyor belt rubber sheeting (1.2m wide and almost 1/2 incth thick) and laid them on the floor edge to edge. A rubber tape used on roofing closed up any gaps and its pretty good. Oil doesn't stick, tools bounce, and its easy to clean.

I take it you're pretty close to sea level? I'm running -1 front and stock rear, and I need to clutch it up in 2nd (power wheelies in 1st are easy)... I'm at about 7000 feet above sea level tho so that may have a small effect

The microswitch is available as a seperate part - I had to replace mine when I flipped my XX last year... was about a $20 item (spares here cost too damn much)

I did my rear sag this weekend - was 65mm and 2 turns of the preload doodad took it to 42mm sag it is sooooooo much harder now - I feel every bump in the road. Turns in way faster tho, and feels far nicer thru bends (tho that could also be the new PR2 I put on a week ago)

I just took off a BT016 - hated it. Slick as baby snot when cold - I could spin it up in 1st and 2nd after a 20 mile freeway commute on dry roads in winter. When warm it sticks great - never got to feel as comfortable with it as the Z6 it replaced. I have a PR2 on now - best feel ever. Really a great tire (ok... only done 1200km on it so far o its early days yet) B

I couldn't get a higher rating rad cap from Honda - they are so fucking useless. Their parts database shows zero stock of radiator caps for ALL models at ALL dealerships, countrywide. SPecial import from Japan will take 21 days and the cost will be ZAR350 (about US$50). Got one from the local Yamaha agent, same spec, in stock, US$8 The new cap makes a world of difference - no overflow after a 50km ride in back streets at low speeds with the fan running intermittently. Will now convert to 100% antifreeze and its business as usual ) Thanks for the help guys...

The original radiator cap was trashed in the off - the limited research I did indicated that the likely set pressure was 0.9bar - this is probably the culprit if the stock honda cap has a higher standard pressure rating. Will have to get one and see what the difference is )

Ummm...where is the upchucking from, and where does the upchucking go? The upchuck comes from the header bottle - its not steaming hot water, but I'm assuming its propelled by a bubble of steam from the radiator past the 0.9 bar radiator cap pressure spring... erm... it lands on the floor

My temp guage isn't too accurate - it NEVER gets to the upper ranges (1997 model) and my impression is that the heat rises quite dramatically between the offramp on the motorway and my home (about 3 miles with 2 traffic light intersections that almost always catch me) Will have to yank the radiator and clean off the paint - thinners might do the job assisted with a pressure wash

Ok... After I started the rebuild on my XX (post dropping it in July) I decided to get the local radiator guys to MAKE me a copper replacement rather than get shafted by the stealership (the handmade version in copper is 1/4 the price of the OEM unit from HONDA) cos there was LOTS to pay for. THe radiator is slightly deeper, has the same number of tubes from intake tank to outlet tank - painted matt black, it weighs fractionally more but thats of no concern. QUESTION: Does aliminium have better thermal transfer properties than copper? Is the black paint causing trouble for me? The thermostat decided to die (the fan switch in the outlet tank) so I put in a bridge switch to earth to force the fan on. If its a hot day, a 35km ride on freeway with nominal traffic at my usual pace (140 to 180kph) with the fan forced ON end up with the bike upchucking about 1/2 cup of coolant when the engine is stopped (not immediately tho... about 2 minutes after the motor has been stopped). Wisdom is needed...

There are blocks to mount the front bib and tabs for everything else.

Just don;t look at Bridgestone BT016 - when they cold they slip like fresh baby snot... In winter I could spin up the back in 1st 2nd and 3rd Crap tyre when cold, sticks quite well when warm tho

No Idea... The fit is quite good on the tailpiece and front fender so far. The headlamp fits nicely into the upper, so no problems there. Will post pics when the whole deal is assembled - just waiting for my speedo cluster to arrive before putting the upper and side panels on.

The price of the panels is on the wareagle-racing.com site - I have the exchange rate to deal with, so that skews thing NOT in my favour. Wareagle - $699 The painter knocked me $450 for the paintwork including decals and a custom fancy superhard clearcoat. The local price for new honda panels was $2878 so I saved bigtime. Time will tell if the clearcoat helps the way its supposed to.

Hey guys... After I binned my XX about 4 months ago, I got prices from the stealership on replacement parts and was horrified. Biiiig munni.. Decided to tray the WarEagle panels - plastic about the same thickness as the stock panels, prepainted with primer and almost ready to paint. Took the panels to my painter guy - he decided to use his own primer and cleaned the panels up, painted them, applied decals and clearcoat and the results are awesome. Decided to try a different colour so its the metallic grey ) Will post pics as soon as the beast is together. [edit]

You sure its not hydraulic lock? If one of the cylinders fills with fuel you'll have the same symptom. Have you pulled the plugs and tried again?

Brian, I recently had a fairly serious collision with a less than skilled driver on the freeway. From what I can tell thus far, my gauges seem to have escaped the crash in working order. They come from my '98 US version Blackbird. Let me know if you might be interested. Reply to this post or PM if you prefer. Cheers, Kevin Are you not going to rebuild the wreck? If not, would love to know what you want for them...

I need clocks to finish the rebuild on my XX - anyone got clocks they can part with, or can provide a link to allow me to get them online?

Avoid the BT016 like the plague... takes forever to warm up and it slips like baby snot until it does. Metzeler Z6 is what gave me most confidence on the road.

I have a BT016 on the back of my bike - found it to be really crap when cold... spins up 1st and 2nd with no warning, even after 10 miles of freeway riding. When its hot it sticks great, so its probably fine on the track. Unuseable on the street in my opinion unless you hammer it all the time (which I don't) My next new set will be another Metzeler Z6 combo. Had great traction, awesome mileage, good feel.

POS Honda... the damn things gravity failed and landed me on my arse

I was thinking of doing a satin black paintscheme with no decals at all - their stuff is apparently primered in a gunmetal color so there's very little prep required if I do go this route. From a financial perspective it makes good sense - the big question was fit and quality of the base plastic