Pete in PA

I'm happy.

I just installed one myself, GREAT HORN! I put it under the gas tank mounted against the frame where the shock mounts. (If you look in the manual it's where the evap can goes if you have a Cali. bike.) I just used a male blade connector and stuck it it the hot horn wire from the horn button. Buddy has a Suzuki M50 and his web site has them put it in their tool box, an almost airtight box and it's still way loud!

Hmmm......OK another question. Does the pilot screw control the fuel through whatever pilot jet you put in or are they 2 circuits working together? In other words If I turn the screw closed will it stop all fuel through the pilot jet? I have and copied the Factory CV instructions. but they don't explain this.

I recently went to 1 step bigger pilots, took the mains up so they all match and shimmed my needles. My question... Which circuit covers cruise on the highway in top gear, throttle barely cracked. THe bike runs great but now I'm down 4-6 mpg. and want it back. Should I turn the pilot screws in to 1 turn out from the 2.5 turns out they are now? Or am I mostly on the slide needles at that point? Thanks!

That would be the 600 PPM of moly. I don't know why they and others put Moly in their bike oils.

Lets get something straight, 90 PPM is nothing for moly content. Maxima Maxum ultra (a motorcycle oil) has 380 PPM. So the MX4T was not your problem. Torco T-4SR has almost 600 PPM of moly. Honda's "moly free" oil has 71 PPM of moly. I'm still doing power wheelies so my clutch is still good.

I give this article WAY more credit. http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/motorcycle_oil.htm That other one tells you basiclly that when they stop making SG oil you must sell your car/bike and get a new one that can handle the next rating. Mike's makes more sense. If the API makes a new rating it covers all the old ratings. For Byrdman MX4T IS M1's motorcycle oil that wasn't your problem. I'll continue abusing my clutch climbing mountains hard near redline. Just to clarify I'm using (been using) M1 car oils and now also commiting the cardinal sin of using "energy conserving" oil also.

What do you think oil is??? It's a friction modifier! That dog won't hunt! When Sport Rider/Consumer Reports (I thought it was the SAME test) tested oil there were some motorcycle oils that had a ton of moly in them. M1 doesn't. I've been looking for a new oil since Mobil changed the Truck & SUV oil to a 10-30 and if I have to mix to get what I want I will. If mine starts slipping you can laugh then. No problems at 200 miles.

I wanted to settle this "don't use Energy Conserving Oil" thing for myself. At 75,000 miles now I just did my oil change with 3 quarts M1 10-30 and one quart M1 15-50. Now I 'll see if my clutch slips at the speed of light.

Now THAT'S a naked bird! Great weld job. Hope she goes together smoothly now for you.

I have to say that I have not noticed any appreciable increase in MPG with the 18T sprocket, but it is a fact that the speedo reads almost correct with the increase of one tooth (confirmed with my GPS). The reason you're not seeing any mpg difference is, your odometer is also changed by the same % as the speedo, so you've actually ridden more miles than your ODO says... Mike Yep, add 6% to your current gas mileage. Ignition advancer also helps with power AND mileage.

I'm happy with mine (JT) RPM's feel just right now. I used to be looking for a 7th gear on the highway.

Put on an ignition advancer, I love mine!

I just did it over the weekend so still waiting to see mileage drop. I only used premium for 2 tanks after the ignition advancer then went back to regular, no problems. Haven't revved over 6k yet? Boy are you in for a surprise! Don't do it in first gear, start in second or higher. Trust me.

I had the same problem with the K&N, but after pulling the PAIR valve, shimming the needles and backing the jets out 2 turns, the bike runs great. I also added the timing advance kit. Stock exhaust as well. No popping on decel at all. Mike Mike, try this. I installed 2 #142 mains (so now all 4 are 142's) Went to #45 pilot jets with pilot screws out 2.5 turns and added washers to my needles for a total with the stock washers of 45 thousanths. runs awesome! Now even with 1 tooth up on the front (18 tooth) it's trying to power wheelie in 2nd gear! The front tire is just skimming the pavement and if it hits a slight bump it leaves.

Complete highjack Did you watch the Pro Stock bikes at Reading last weekend? Hines went through the lights at about 190 mph and his front wheel was so high off the ground that it was on the wheelie bars. They said there is a sight bump right before the finish line. It was wild. Nope didn't even know about it. let me know when anything like that happens locally. I did go to 2 soccer games my girls were in and went fishing over the weekend. Caught 1 trout, 4 bass, several bluegill, and one tree . My oldest caught the first fish of the day but my bass was the biggest.

These are my rear tire mileages: Current, Pirelli Strada 4k miles and bald. Contiforce 3800 miles to cord. B'stone 57 4650 miles till cord. (thought Id try it once more for mileage) Conti. Road Attack 4438 miles till cord. B'stone 020 (FJR specific tire) 4400 miles to bald. Metzeler Z6 4174 miles to cord. ( This tells me it will be identical in mileage to the Pirelli Strada) I ride hard, but not THAT hard.

Well I installed 2 #142 mains (so now all 4 are 142's) Went to #45 pilot jets with pilot screws out 2.5 turns and added washers to my needles for a total with the stock washers of 45 thousanths. runs awesome! Since I drilled out my stock pipes it wasn't quite right. Now even with 1 tooth up on the front (18 tooth) it's trying to power wheelie in 2nd gear! The front tire is just skimming the pavement and if it hits a slight bump it leaves.

My rear Strada is bald at 4k miles. :icon_doh: What else is new? They do handle great though. Front is doing ok so far, Shinko 009 rear going on next.

, Thanks guys. I'll order today.

Thanks, but how can only high speed cause the problem if its the diaphragm? :icon_think: Ar high speeds/rpm you demand more fuel flow and it exceeds what's flowing throught the petcock. It's just 4 little screws and it will be revealed. I and several here had folded/wrinkled/cut diaphragms from the factory.

Im going to order some jets from The 2006 Chaparral catalog page 507. When the # gets bigger, does the hole get bigger or smaller? Is it the same for main and slow jets? I know the current main #'s are 140 for cylinders 1 & 4 and 142 for cylinders 2 & 3. (why, I don't know, it's liquid cooled) I want to go to the bigger of the #'s for all cylinders. The slow jets are #42. I want to go up one size since I'm at 3.5 turns out and that's too much. Once you're past 3 turns out you go up a size.

Sounds like the fuel petcock diaphram to me.

I just heard that lately but I have been using brake cleaner on car rotors for about 30 years with no ill affect, so............. Yeah, ANYWAY. It's brake cleaner BECAUSE it leaves no residue. If you think it leaves residue use electrical contact cleaner. I just removed my rotors and used a sanding disc on my drill. worked for me.

I still think the most important thing is front and rear wheel allignment. I did the string thing and this time found my rear was out. Now when I catch some air with the front tire it stays stable on landing. It used to wobble a little when the front tire came down. Heres hoping my tire mileage goes up.