Pete in PA

If I had the option, I would run a higher traction tire on the front then the rear. Since you already have a higher traction on the rear then the front I would say go for it. As far as mixing diff. brands I have done it with no problems. I refuse to pitch a tire with life left in it.

If your idle is smooth, with no surgeing/hunting, then sync. should be on. Have you played with the pilot screw settings? If they are still at factory settings,turn them in till they seat lightly then out 2 1/2 turns. The factory has these almost shut off for emissions.These screws are on the bottom of the carbs and look like a circle with a small straight section. If you don't have the tool, try a .17 or .22 rimfire rifle case and put a slight dent in it at the rim.

The gap spec. is .031 to .035. Should be perfect from the box. Mine were.

This is disturbing!!! Never seen a head gasket go on a metric bike. Lots of experience on cages though. :cry: Just smell the exaust to diagnose. If it smells sweet, kinda like sweet potatoes, it's a head gasket or cracked head. The smoke is usually VERY abundant, white and billowy. If it's oil, it's more blue and smells like..... well..oil. It sounds like one of these great shops has broken another fine bike with their ineptitude. Glad I do all my own maint. :grin: Keep us updated on this.

I know this was done already but it's been lost with the system dump. I also wanted to include some other pointers. My appologies, I don't remember who did this origionally. When you go to get a Yamaha R1 reg. from a salvage yard, make sure they will also give you the plastic connector with a short section of wires attached. This way you can match colors. Some yards don't want to cut the factory harness since they could sell it whole. The reg. will fit in the factory bolt holes with just a slight Dremmeling of the slots in the reg. The reg. is alluminum no big deal. You will have to find longer bolts also since it is thicker. For the hook up, inside the plastic conn. each wire spade conn. is held in with a plastic tab. You just take a eye glass screwdriver and push the tab aside and pull the spade and wire out. The colors are: 3 white Yamaha for 3 Yellow Honda. Stator output. No order to them all the same. (AC voltage) 1 black Yamaha for the 1 green Honda ground - and red to red both for + The three stator wires will snap right in to the R1 connector, the - and + have to be changed. They are too wide to fit. I found these spade connectors at Pep Boys. The company name is Conduct-tite and they say female fits Ford 1/4". or just take the connector with you to match it up like I did. Then just cut off the 2 wide ones and crimp on these connectors and snap them in. This gives you a "Factory" quality connection. What you get for your truobles is a reg/rec. that has HUGE fins on it and will last far longer than a Honda one. BTW, after dealing with salvage yards I checked a Yamaha dealer and was quoted a price of $75 for a new R1 reg. I need to check further since this seems cheap for what I am used to. Hindsight is 20/10.

Whoa!!! $400 for HID, too deep for me! That's 2 sets of tires. If you put HID on the XX, won't the reflector still aim the light the same? The origional complaint was no light on the road when cornering. Has everyone played with the adjustment thumb wheels and aimed it higher? From someone who comutes in deer country 30 miles 1 way at 10 PM it works fine. You just have to find that magic setting where it just doesn't blind oncoming traffic. I use Sylvania 55 watt Cool Blue's. It is fun to corner and watch that low beam cutoff line go verticle. :grin: Obby, you might want to check your chargeing system if your insturments seem dull.

I bought a VERY long, thin phillips screwdriver from Sears. It just squeezes in to adjust the screws.

...............also a T-65 Torx. I needed one for the calipers on my 99 Monte Carlo.

Yes you can sync. without the airbox, I have never found a way to do it with it on. Just hook up a fuel source, warm the engine, and go to it. the pilot screws I couldn't adjust without removing the carb. bank. If only because I wanted to be sure all screws were equal. 2 1/2 turns out. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

I have never had an ignition prob. on any Honda I've owned, but throw a timeing light on to rule it out. Have you done all the tests from the other thread? Done an operational check of the fuel petcock and carb slides? Where are you located? I would LOVE to work on this problem. My bike doesn't break enough. :razz: I still think it's a fuel prob. Maybe carbs still have goo from the 6 mos. storage. let us know.

See, that's those french tires taking another stab at us. Shoud have put on Avons. Go Britain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, you said the carbs were rebuilt, do you trust who did it? I agree with the diaphragm, diagnosis. If one is hanging up it will slow the whole engine down. I know I will catch hell for this but it is a great diagnostic trick. Take tank and air box off. Locate the black tube that came off the air box housing and goes between #2 and #3 carb. about the diameter of a quarter. Blow in this and it will cause the slides to rise. Check that they all rise and fall evenly. This will show if any slides are sticking or if any diaphgrams are torn or installed incorrectly. Now here comes the flak, now donning flak vest.

What light comes on when you do a stoppie? What's FI? And why? :razz:

Besides what was already covered my only idea is we need more info, esp. mileage. Is the chain worn or slack ? is the front sprocket worn down to nothing so the chain skips teeth? Also check the vac. petcock for vac. leaks and enough fuel flow.

d. Hookers

I've lost 2 HP over the winter, good I put in iridium plugs to make up the difference.

On the subject of changeing oil, I went with Mob. 1 15-50. I had the MX4TI ? ( the mob 1 MC stuff $8 qt. :shock: ) it just started shifting notchy at 4k miles. I pull the left side fairing (no big deal) use a large channel lock to remove the old filter, and no nightmare problems. with the fairing off I can clean the engine case of oil and check for leaks when done, something that can't be done leaving it in place.

I'm still working on my reg/ rec hookup. I have the connector and piece of wire harness. My one question. Would there be any problem with an extra connector in-line with the regular ones to avoid cutting the XX harness? Edit::: After changeing my oil and nutzing with the dual connector thing this afternoon I've come to the conclusion that there isn't enough room for both and it looks like hell. SOOOOO. can you buy those crimp on connectors that are inside the plastic conn. and if so where? The XX + and - are wider then the 3 stator outputs, while the R1 connectors are all the same size. In other words the 3 stator wires snap right into the R1 connector but the other 2 don't fit. Oh and by the way SNOW COMMING AGAIN SHIT! AFTER RIDEING 800 MILES ALREADY!!!!!!! :evil: :evil: