Pete in PA

I removed it to get it out of the way. With the contact cleaner method it is easy to take grips off and on. Also to give the lock room, had to slide the grip back a little.

Just thought I'd pass along how I installed my throttle lock. I followed a lot of what Carlos did, but I decided to utilize the hole in the bottom of the switch housing. I removed the brake lever, it was constantly in my line of sight. removed grip and bar end weight, took out screws for switch housing. Placed flat plate from lock on switch housing and marked through hole in housing onto plate. I drilled a hole in the lock just slightly undersized for the screw I used. I used a screw from an Erector set (first thing I found) and threaded it into the plate on the lock. It is just slightly smaller in diameter than the switch housing hole so it can still drain or breathe whatever it has to. If you have any binding with the rubber grip against the lock and/or bar weight cut out a plastic doughnut from a milk carton or what I found which was black, a microwave TV dinner tray. Now onto how I heard to put grips on. Make sure all old glue dirt etc. is off grips and bars. Use spray on electrical parts/contact cleaner, brake cleaner a close second, saturate the inside of the grip and slide it on. It will dry and the grip is on. No mess. To remove at a later time, slide the straw up the grip and spray it again and work it loose, again no mess.

Yes, you're running rich. Being in Alaska your "cold" to "warm" riding is probably a lot different than mine. If the bike runs good till warmed up or when air temp. is cold it is too rich. Just lke Speedfreak said, start with turning the pilot screws in a 1/2 turn and try it.

XXTI has got it. It is the clutch throw out bearing. mine does it too. When you start it cold, pull in the clutch, it goes away, let it out it comes back. only for the first min. or so. Weird. :roll:

I'm enjoying this thread, I thought the way I rode was, well, normal. Now I don't know. Unless I'm running the corners hard or trying to make time, I'm in 6th gear if I'm doing 40mph or more. This bike has more low end power than anything I've ever ridden. :grin: To ride down the highway in 4th to stay in the powerband seems strange to me unless your are talking rush hour and not doing normal highway speed. Here is a test for y'all... My bike will slow down to 1000 rpm in top gear, stock gearing, and pick right back up when you roll it on. This is on level ground or even on a slight up hill. Sometimes I get lazy and ride it like a big moped and leave it in 6th. I have even made regular right turns into side streets (at high speed) in 6th gear. Perfect carb. sync. and tunning has a lot to do with it.

My order just came in. I got it from Chapparal, along with EBC brakes. :grin: I'll start putting it on tomorrow.

You can also get a 1157 bulb in wrong with the two diff. level tits in the wrong slot. I see it all the time on cages with super bright taillights and then no brake lights. also check your turn signal switch is fully springing up after turning off the signals.

Yeah Carlos, I have exactly the same grips. As near as I can tell from the pics it looks like you did cut the grip shorter at the bar weight end. I already have the extra flange off at the switch box end.

I switched to the iridiums, better power, no loss of mpg, 40 generally. Did you get both ends off the ground and check for free rolling of wheels? bearings/brakes/chain, etc. Being FI, and mine not, I can't directly correlate. How are the fuel pumps on these Things? Anyone ever clean injectors? Water in fuel goes right to the bottom where the fuel pickup is, carbed or FI, so it should be a temporary problem. I'll keep thinking................

45/46 tires from swmototires $225 mt. and bal. off bike $10 ea. $ 20 Bike handles like a dream in corners. PRICELESS!!! :wink: Unless you don't want to pull wheels, see what he'll do for off bike.

I have the lock on order but have noticed that I don't have any room on my grip. I have the Progrip (used to be called dual sport model, lots of small dimples) grips on it. If I slide the grip away from the switch housing it will be tight against the bar end weight. I don't want to cut the grip shorter if I don't have to. Ideas???

EBC HH for me also. If you want to wear ALL your front pads down evenly instead of one worn out and the other with half it's life left. Do what I do. Periodically pull all front pads out and put the left ones in the right caliper and the right ones in the left caliper. If you follow one pad through this change you will see it go from being on the piston side to the inactive side and also changes it from the (master cylinder caliper) to the regular one. After going to EBC brakes at 12k miles, (factory ones very uneven wear) I am now at 34k miles and all pads same thickness and about halfway down. :grin: :grin: Only takes 5 minutes to change them, pistons don't have to be relocated like putting on new brakes. Unfortunately this doesn't work for the rear. You can't swap left to right. I have thought about including the rear in the rotation but haven't done it yet.

Is the bike new or used? any wrecks or fall overs? The handlebar thing is your forks twisted in the tripple tree, a simple and common thing. It may sound barbaric but I even saw this in a magazine service questions collumn. Rider, Cycle World, etc. can't remember. Ride down the road and see which way the handlebars look cocked. Find a tree, telephone pole etc. and put the front wheel against it and turn the handlebars hard to whack the side of the tire against it. Then ride again and check. I have done this on my XR 650 everytime I have a get off. Only a very light whack is needed to move it. Most times I whack, ride and I went too far and have to take it back the other way. It is very easy on this bike due to fork length and thickness, but should work on the XX.

Good point Harry, when they are about bald they don't go bald evenly. LIKE ME!! :roll:

The B'stone front WILL cup, right now the word is the Avons don't. :grin: Only 700 miles on mine so far I'll let you know.

I still don't know where the plugged T goes except to clean air junk. I removed all mine. Less problems with serviceing as you have seen. glad to see it works, but you need to find where it goes.

The rear tire had 9/32's" when new. A little dissapointed to see 7/32's" now in the middle with 700 miles on it. Those real shallow tread lines that swirl across are just about flush at the middle. Front no measureable wear. Can't even feel any slight cupping by running hand across both ways. :grin: 42 psi rear 40 front. No burnouts, tires too expensive. :shock:

If you take apart the petcock, 4 screws, you can put the nipple to any of four directions. I don't know if Honda standardized the direction at assy. or not. Plus if the bike is used or not it could go any way. Mine is straight down.

The smaller nipple on the tank is for venting the tank to atmosphere. If you somehow got vacuum to this nipple fuel won't flow out of the tank.

I haven't seen a Haynes manual for this bike but had one for my V65 Sabre. There were some mistakes in it, so with the XX, I bought the Honda manual. It is excellent!! For your problem there are perfect drawings of where all the hoses go. I don't have the capabilities to send you a pic. so I will try to describe where they all go. I think Mikey is right, the single hose that comes from the #3 cyl. vacuum goes on the petcock but there are 2 nipples on it right near each other, one is for the diaphram to receive atmosperic pressere (no hose goes here) the other is for the engine vacuum. On the back of the petcock is the correct one. It sits higher then the other one and comes out of the center of the circle not the bottom. This is where the #3 cyl. vacuum goes. You have the 2 fuel hoses that go to T on the petcock, a overflow hose to the tank and a breather tube to the tank. I'm confused how you have a T for vacuum. It is one hose from #3 cyl. to the petcock. Unless you have a California bike then it T's to the evap. purge control valve. I can tell you this, you can't have a open to atmosphere vacuum or you will have a problem.

Read about it in the manual, never did it. The only bike with a smoother engine is the Goldwing. Don't want to think I'm on a Wing. :wink:

How do you guys tie the rear wheel to the floor???? You got floor tie down anchors like an aircraft carrier???

Somehing I failled to mention before. I did an autopsy on the XX reg/rec. It was a real pain, but I got all that semi-hard epoxy rubber sheite out of it without damageing whats inside. Very disapointed. For as big as the unit is, inside is a tiny, about 1" by 1" intergrated circuit. I was expecting to see masive diodes, resistors etc. Definately not up to the current demands of a chargeing system!!! :evil: Of course no cooling fins either. If the Yamaha reg takes a dump I'll rip it apart also.

Yes, as long as you have someone to mount them SWmototires is cheapest quick shipping. This year the guy I always went to doubled his price to mount and balance.He's a small private shop and has always grumbled when I bring in tires from mail order. So I called around and found another small private shop and had them mt. and bal. (off bike) for $10 each. :grin:

I bought mine used with 3800 mi. on it. I checked the valves at 8k, 16k, 32k always in spec. They're suposed to be checked every 16k miles. Just parinoid at 8k. :roll: A lot of others have checked and they have been fine, some others don't even check. I will always check mine every 16k for peace of mind. easy to do. It's only when you find one or more out of spec. that it gets more difficult.