Pete in PA

Have you checked the valve clearances? Should have been done at 16K miles. It's hard to diagnose a noise without hearing it. Anyone with any ideas? Doesn't sound like cct, goes away and too low rpm.

All aftermarket rear sprockets are not aluminum. Sunstar, Sprocket Specialists, just off the top of my head are steel. I reccomend case hardened for the front also. I've seen alum. rears destroyed in 5k miles.

That's OK, we can take our bikes apart without worrying about spraying 80 psi worth of gas all over. :twisted:

What's your bike's age/ mileage? is the noise in sync with rpm? If it's at the top of the engine are you the first to need a valve adj. on this forum?

That's it! There is a channel between the bottom of the airbox and frame crossover tube. You might be able to wiggle it out, if not off the tank and airbox again. :cry:

Yes I've noticed and yes, I'm anal but I like the look of the allen screws. :grin:

The choke cable is the one thing I didn't have probs with, nor have I heard it from anyone else. Where is it routed now? I've got Helibars, higher then genmars.

That sounds like too much to me although I never have checked this on my bike. The clock is the only thing that should be drawing and should be almost undetectabe on a meter. Try removeing 1 fuse at a time untill it goes away and see if you can isolate the circuit. My bike is a 98, still factory battery if this is any indication. Love those maint. free batts! Even with a lot of TLC I would need a new battery every 3 to 5 years on the old bike.

80 ft.lbs.

Well now THAT"S disturbing. So I switched to a R1 reg. for nothing? What's the R1 site name? With the monsoon season still in full swing in PA, I haven't got out much but so far thr R1 reg is doing fine. As soon as you take the RPMS off idle and I mean 1200 RPM, the headlight gets brighter. From what I remember, the XX reg needed more revs to make the headlight brighter. Involute, how are you going to keep the wires from pulling out of the reg. from road bumps?? Did you get the reg. bolted to the subframe OK?

Now Rock, when did you START minding your own bussiness?????? :razz: I must have missed it. Involute, If you go back and read the locked post I removed all the wires from inside the plastic conn. I didn't solder but used a regular wire crimper you can get anywhere and crimped the metal connectors on the wires (just like factory) and snapped them in the plastic connector. this way you get a 100% factory look to the installation.

Ignore mileage, change ALL brake/clutch fluid every other year, or sooner if getting too murky. And yes the clutch and brake action will be better. :grin: I don't even have a vacuum bleeder, never had a problem doing it the pump way. Just don't let any air in at the master cyl.

On the top left of the card the # is 85352 Then below it has 20-18 which I assume is the wire gauge. You do understand that these are individual female spade connectors 1 for each wire. You confused me when you said make my own. Hope this helps.

No it is good, I coppied it to paper. The best thing is it works on almost ALL bikes. I like it.

If you want more room for the vac. hose you can dissasemble th petcock and the nipple can be aimed down, that's what I did. The OTHER nipple Has only a tiny pin hole in it and is for atmospheric press. to get to the rubber diaphram in the petcock.

You guys scared me, I just ran down to the basement and checked.......... It does NOT say energy conserving on my brand new 5 qt. bottles of Mobil 1 15-50. WHEW!!!! It's in the bike now and 2 bottles in wait. Am about to put it in the 650. :grin:

Ummm...... as per your post title, do you have a rear headlight?????? :razz: I just checked I don't. If you got the whole thing hot enough to melt the bulb holder, check the wire connector and try to clean the connections or squeeze the blades together for a better connection.

It's a personal thing, I run 42 front and rear. Great stick to peg dragging and better tire/fuel mileage on the highway. Others are running 36F 38R. Just check press. cold and experiment. :grin:

My bike is all stock in the power dept. also. Remove the carbs and on the bottom are the pilot screws. They actually have D shaped heads so you won't mess with them. Find a way to turn them then turn them in till they lightly bottom then turn out 2 1/2 turns. My bike, set up this way has no hesitation and no flat spot at 5k rpm.

Check the back of the bike magazines. There is a company that trues rims for bikes, can't recall the name though.

Need more input. Box stock or pipe, new prob. or old? are your pilot screws turned out or factory setting?

Vern, are you in a semi's slipstream when this happens? even a ways back.

Once I set static sag at 1 1/2" front and rear (shimmed fork springs) I quit dragging my fairing. I have scrape marks all the way to lower mount bolt on fairing. Now all I drag are the peg feelers.

The tabs are there to positively angle the fittings for assembly in the factory and when you turn the bolt the fitting doesn't turn with it.

I am very happy withe the Avon 45/46's Had 020's front cupped bad. 010's, Dunlop's 205 and 220 fronts cup. So far 1500 miles no cupping on 45, great stick and handling. Have to wear out to see mileage.