Pete in PA

Swamp, what I meant was if you push the pistons in, do your brake swap, then pump the lever to reseat the pistons, the accordian will wind up extended down into the reservoir.

The only grease allowed anywhere near a brakeing system is on the slideing pins under the rubber boots. The ones that allow the caliper to slide left and right. If you grease the pistons, the first time you brake the pistons heat up and the grease will flow on the pads and rotor, no brakes. :shock: :shock: Light rubbing when brakes are off is normal. Also with new pads I've noticed they rub more till they wear in so probably not a problem.

Why did you replace all your discs?? $$$$$ :shock:

I forget which rag it is (I get them all) but they are covering suspensions and sag again.

Switch to a 97 ot 98 bird, they NEVER go more then half way to red. Seriously the FI bikes run hotter, did you actually boil over or just get in the red zone? I'm starting to wonder if the FI bikes just INDICATE hotter running, as in gauge reads high. I agree the thermostat is most likely not the problem. Any bug buildup on the radiator or a lot of bent fins? You can straighten them but it's a long project and be careful.

If you have pushed the pistons in without removeing the reservoir cap, after you are done and have reseated the pistons take off the cap and reseat the rubber accordian boot on the bottom. It will be extended down into the reservoir. Hence why I just take caps off for brake work. I hope you were just kidding about grease on the pistons, Don't do it.

With the relay bypassed is the pressure going to keep building or is it a return system where the unused fuel returns to the tank?

The platinums are being phased out by iridium. The iridium is suposed to last longer than platinum. I looked at a 2003 VFR manual and they wanted the iridiums changed at I think 30k miles. I have them in my bike.

Lose the jet kit and anything else causeing 28 mpg, and get 40mpg like me. :cool:

Your 30 amp relay wouldn't work for THAT horn. I always wanted a train horn. :bigshock:

Try taking the master cylinder reservoir caps off both rear and front (they're linked remember) to push pistons in. Just watch the handlebar reservoir is level and don't bump it or the spilled fluid will eat paint.

I'm betting it is the distance collar between the bearings also. to check the bearings stick your finger in the race and turn slowly. It should feel smooth with no notchiness. Check all 3 bearings also. (1 in the sprocket carrier) My old V65 Sabre is about to roll over with the guy I sold it to, same wheel bearings. (and a lot of other same stuff also) :grin: :grin: THAT'S HONDA! :grin:

Check your chargeing voltage, when one of my reg's went bad it would give 14 volts for quite a while then spike to 18 for a second so you have to leave it hooked up for a while to catch it. 18 volts would be BAD for ecu's.

I read the "harsh" breakin from Mototune and found it interesting and I believe it. Just won't get to do it, prob. never buy a new bike again.

I've got the 2 part MCN oil article in print form. Any ideas how to get it online? BTW Mobil 1 is the top or at the top of all tests, most importantly viscocity retention. I really like how mobil 1 kicks the ass of "bike" oils coating $12 a quart.

Please, no offense but with something as serious as your steeringhead bearing nuts, judgeing from your question wording, leave it alone. If you want to wrench on your bike, get a Honda manual, learn the terminology,and take a course. There are dealer mechanics that can't diagnose, lube and adjust head bearings correctly. We have had too many wrecks this summer. Both on this site as well as ones personal to me. Again no offense intended, just looking out for you.

Also check the starter button. When you push the button in slightly your headlight goes out to give the starter full power. When you release, it must make contact again to give power to headlight. BTW, awesome running at the Beaver!

My whole point of this was Nik asked how to remove a tire. I know he meant remove rear wheel, not use tire irons to remove the tire from the rim/wheel. I wanted to get a rise from Nik, he didn't feed. DARN :!:

Did the morons at the dealer line up your chain adjustment marks left to right?

This is the third weakness for xx's. ball type head bearings. Why with a bike as big and heavy as this it doesn't come with tapered roller bearings factory. I'd be willing to bet if all of you propped your bike's front end and slowly turned your bars you'd feel a notch also. Especially if Wheelies are part of your repotoire. Dennis kirk has them for $50. I have a notch straight ahead also, been thinking of putting tapered's in this winter. This IS THE CURE for deceleration wobbles. (head shake) If you get it done under warrantee have them put in tapered rollers shoudn't matter for labor.

Where did the crack start?

Nope, car tire machines are an enTIREly diiferent critter than motorcycle tire machines.

Joe, this is a motorcycle not a bicycle. :roll: :wink: :razz:

All the answers I would have given have been given. COOL :cool: Bad reg/rec from Electrex, give em hell!

Can you get the centerstand on temporarily? Is it off for an exaust? I refuse to own a bike without a centerstand, it's just too handy for just such occasions. (dirtbike excluded of course)