Pete in PA

With all the tires I've mounted I've never had one leak while seating the bead. I think one of those mini compressors would work albeit slowly. All I use is a larger compressor that doesn't have a tank, no problems.

Just do this for less than $10 at Wally World. http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tec...icles/air-pump/ Mine fits in my tail section along with some gooey rope and cement. You'll need 7 CO2 cartridges to fill our rear, with a pump you have an infinite supply. EDIT: I now looked at the Ebay offer, For $40 delivered doesn't look too bad with all the stuff you get, I don't think it's a real money maker for the guy.

mhttp://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8763&hl=rimfire Do what you have to to get the pilot screws out then cut a slot in them with a dremel for a screwdriver. I'm using the stock needles with a different washer that is at 25 thou. Stock washer is 20 thou. I'd go back to the stock needles, the Dynojet needles have a big taper on them. (more fuel) I keep bouncing good running off of good mileage and wind up in the middle somewhere.

You won't need a gasket kit, everything is reusable. I'm running the stock pipes and filter so it won't be the same for you. But for the record 142 mains all 4, slide drilled out, needle shimed to 25 thou., and pilot screws out 3 turns. I read everything I can get my hands (or browser) on, but the best thing is the Honda Service Manual it's VERY thorough.

You need to yank the carbs. Since someone else did the jet kit you don't know what was REALLY done. Backfiring on deceleration through the pipes (pipe) is a lean condition, not rich, although I've never seen it before just sitting there revving it. You might want to check your exhaust gasket sealing because an air leak can cause it also. When you have the carbs out be sure to turn the pilot screws out to 3 turns. This is the circuit which causes the lean backfire on deceleration.

Nope, no knock sensor. On FI only.

+2! You are well behind on all the maintenance, hope you have changed the oil regularly with a decent quality oil.

Now were talking! I hoped they were going to do that, and they look cool. When I use up my current stock I'll be getting these.

It's been years since I had mine out but it came out all straight no problems. If yours is all collapsed and distorted that may be your problem.

The one is to allow the actual petcock to vent to atmosphere. ( the air in the diaphram, if you take the petcock apart you will understand and never put the hose there again.)

If it ran fine before your maintenance then it's something you did. You'll have to go back in there and check your work. Vac lines may still be wrong, very easy to put one on the wrong spot on the petcock. Crossed plug wires? One boot not fully on a plug?

Since this is covered in 3 places on 2 different web sites I'll put it in all. I also cut the stud shorter and removed the lock nut and now with the stud threaded all the way to its nut into the U bracket I hope the brake pedal is now low enough. Stretch what kind of glue did you use for your sidestand bumper? I used Gorilla glue to glue a piece of black plastic at the same place. So far it's holding.

I got my brackets yesterday already, thanks Dave! I found that the hole in the bracket is not the problem it's that my factory pin is bent. Must have stood on the pegs too much through the years. I got it bolted up fine but the brake pedal is now too high. I removed the whole assembly and cut the stud shorter and removed the lock nut. Now with the stud threaded untill its nut is on the U bracket I hope it's low enough now. Haven't ridden it yet. For the left I also shimed the sidestand with a piece of plastic glued on at the pivot point so when it retracts it's just short of touching the footpeg. I used Gorilla glue so far it's holding. With my now 7/8ths in. long feelers I'm not really limited in the corners. The feelers just drag more, where before I barely ever touched down. The rear tire is completely used, and the front Pirelli Strada is used right up to just touching the pitchforks. So now more comfort with no negative side.

Well it didn't last long, price is back up for the new year. I should have bought several.

I'd say it's the normal clutch basket rattle when cold. See if it goes away when you pull in the clutch.

http://www.ridenowonline.com/product_detai...cb-26d0b3d0d394 $9.95 shipping per tire.

They are both to keep hot oil cooler air from being sucked up in the air intake. Cool air is better for power.

These are correct, I ordered the next bigger size the 21-45 from Chaparral. You want the 21-42. There is no part # on the jet it just says K 42. Also you need to replace it you are now sucking at a higher height in essence you've lowered your float height.

Harbor Freight. Get a whole set when they're on sale.

+3 It's not necessary and a real pain to replace. I also don't have those 2 push pins in the front bottom.

36.6 mpg and that with a few speed runs to 160 mph on that tank. Figureing in the 6% lower odometer reading for the 18 tooth front sprocket gives 38.8 mpg. If I can restrain myself for a tank I've got at least 40 mpg.

Unless we keep replying to it.

http://www.ridenowonline.com/product_detai...80-dd7e52dfa159 $90 delivered for the rear. sticks fine to no chicken strips for me. If I get my normal 4500 miles to the cord I'll keep running it. I can't vouch for the front, I have a Strada on with another one waiting (free deal over the summer).

I CAN tell you that the Strada rear goes 4200 miles to cord for me. About my norm for all tires. I'm now running a Shinko 009 rear, if I can't get 5 k out of a tire it might as well be cheap. $90 delivered. It handles fine for me, (still a Strada on the front) don't know about mileage yet.

Hmmm...I've always lubed throttle tubes. but not with grease. When it's cold it will actually cause it to stick. I just use a light coating of machine oil.