XXitanium

I use Pandora a lot. I've been too cost conscious/cheap/[don't need another draw on finances] to go paid yet. I don't want commercials for this "thing". I've wanted to get myself some kind of virtual musix jukebox for a long time. Now is the time. I was idiotic enough to volunteer to put out music, unattended playlist, at my 40 year tomorrow July 5th. I dug around last night and came up with something called "Select!" that runs on my 'droid tablet. I took as many of my albums as I could and copied them to the tablet. The user interface for file transfer is worse than clunky. I have an 18 hour playlist from 30 years of buying CDs now though. The tablet is an RCA Viking cheapo from Walmart, not fast, but does a nice job on playback. I have the 808 bluetooth speaker my wife pulled out of the trash when my twenty-something was throwing away because he could't find the power cord. It doesn't take a charge, but it runs OK when it's plugged into the wall. I warned them - it would be "eclectic". I don't have a backup plan.

I want to download a jukebox app. I'd like one that will suggest new songs based on a playlist I've started kind of like Pandora. Do any of you guys run anything like that? I drive about 10 hours a week commuting and the radio DJs are driving me bonkers, er - bonkier - more bonk... you get the drift. Double Twist Equalizer Google Play Music Jet Audio Music Player n7 Neutron Player Pro PowerAMP Rocket Player Shuffle Plus

I placed mine horizontally in Duluth. I forgot to tell you. ❤️

We're going new.

I think my friend got a super deal on a close-out. You're right though. They are getting whole new air handlers and condensers after an insurance settlement involving a bad roof.

I can get a 3-ton system for free it's 3 years old. It's an R22 system. Can it be converted to the new style freon? I was thinking about getting it for my in-laws.

...and it just magically quit?

Ok. I got them for 15 for about $7 I think. Maybe I'll cut one up.

No silicates Aluminum safe Anti'corrosion Distilled water

Fireblades Link

Needs to be silicate free and safe for aluminum. " Choosing motorcycle engine coolant The problem: Sometimes, even a straightforward thing like adding or changing coolant becomes fraught with potential problems. Case in point: Choosing a motorcycle coolant should be straightforward. Motorcycle engines are made of aluminium. It stands to reason that if we chose a name brand coolant that featured compatibility with aluminium as well as 7 or 8 other metals, we'd be safe, right? Well it turns out that we'd be wrong. At least for Honda motorcycles. Coolants do more than prevent freezing and protect from overheating. They also protect from corrosion. Traditional automotive coolant contains silicates as part of its anti-corrosive additive mix. It appears that silicates (abrasive in nature) damage the Honda water-pump seals. There have been a spate of Honda water-pump failures that typically occur within one year of having replaced the OEM coolant with silicate-based automotive coolant. What's the solution? The recommended coolant, at least for Honda motorcycles, is the newer-generation non-silicate-based coolant. I suspect that non-silicate coolant would be gentler on other brand motorcycles as well. This is sometimes an inconvenience for someone not living reasonably close to a Honda bike dealership. In addition, OEM motorcycle dealer pricing tends to be a little higher. After more research, I ended up buying Honda coolant from my local Honda car dealership. This is not only convenient, but probably a little cheaper to boot! The product name is Type 2 coolant (as opposed toType 1 that is silicate-based) and comes in a 4 litre jug. It's a long-life coolant, comes pre-mixed, is greening in color, and contains no silicates. I found the price reasonable and that's what I put in. Apparently it is also available in concentrated form. While it may be cheaper in concentrated form, I found the convenience of the pre-mix version to more than make up for any possible difference in price. There are other long-life coolants out there that contain no silicates. It seems that Dexcool (GM) has a checkered history and may be involved in several class action suits. Dexcool has been linked to possibly serious problems, sometimes turning into a jelly-like sludge. It has also been linked to failed intake manifold gaskets. There are enough well-publicized doubts aboutDexcool in its applicability for automotive applications that I’d be wary of using it in my motorcycle's engine. Considerations: Just a heads up re switching to a non-silicate (ie organic-based) coolant. If you've been running regular silicate-based coolant, you want to ensure a complete flush ie get it all out. It seems that silicate and non-silicate-based coolants don't mix well. In fact, they're considered non-compatible. It appears that even a small cross-contamination will impact protection. From what I've gathered, two things happen. the coolant performance is deemed to revert back to the lowest one ie a long-life coolant is deemed to revert back to normal life ie 1 or 2 yrs. there seems to be chemical incompatibility between the two, resulting in corrosion inhibitors falling out of suspension. It's believed that the acids in the organic non-silicate coolants will tend to cause residual leftover silicates to fall out ofsuspension. Apparently, this will affect corrosion protection and possibly add (how much I don't know) to silicate-caused negative results. re type of water to use: Regular, mineral-rich tap water encourages scale build-up. Minerals tend to deposit as scale and do so more easily at high temperatures. This scale will tend to accumulate at some hot spots. It decreases heat transfer (ie is insulating) and cuts down on the cooling effectiveness. In addition, there are the possible chemical reactions of chlorine (common in tap water) and sodium to create chloride salts. Jeff Bertrand (contributor to Motorcycle Consumer News and fellow lister) cautions that, in his experience, this can often result in a highly corrosive soup. Not a pretty picture! Though this is a normal chemical reaction of chlorine and sodium, I haven't researched this enough to determine to what extent this occurs nor what concentrations are likely to produce negligeable or more significant effects. What I do know is that preventing the formation of this corrosive soup requires a very simple and inexpensive product that is available at every drugstore: distilled water. A four litre jug (approx $2) of distilled water is probably enough to fully flush out a cooling system. So using distilled water is critical for both flushing and mixing. Copyright Bruno Valeri 2003-2008 hopefully this helps Note: I add content to this website regularly

It's extremely light. I'll see if it says on the blister pack. Dissimilar metals/corrosion. I'd just like it to fit correctly. I should probably buy a new element also. I'm considering that the elements resistance may have risen due to the exterior slowly corroding away. It's a fairly light wire.

The wires that supply the dryer heating element . I do plan on going back to where the old copper is clean. I don't think a dryer outdoors would be good in my climate. I bought new spade connectors, but they were aluminum, not copper. ...and smaller although marked the same .

Ha, the rubber bumpers from beneath a CBX tail are a little smaller.

I've been picture denied!

I tried Money-yards er manure-yards er Menard's. They had a poor collection of undersized parts that really seemed mismarked. I think I need to make some soldered connections and replace the female spade connectors. The old wires have about 4" of melted/burned insulation. The copper is corroded. They melt when I put an end back on. Amazon has parts, but they're astronomical for what you get. Amazon Sale Part I'm definitely not doing this right. My day job is getting in the way of my evening home gig.

Avon's - nice-n-sricky.

I mentioned it to my "club".

Oooo, red, me likey.

Same here. Back takes a pump or two to get brake. Front makes a clacking sound.

...not in the almost ten I've owned it.

...well after giving it thought, it may be the first time the top has been off since 2000. The leak I saw would have been the line not the casting in all probability. Maybe it's not a huge deal. Bleed the rear reservoir... I didn't do a very good look at the pad thickness. I should be drummed out of the garage.

Did they really make two different housing castings? Looks like i might be able to replace the line if it's the problem. I couldn't make out how it assembles though. https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2010f870023420a2f65a/fr-brake-caliper-r

...no pictures? I have something similar going on.