Warp11XX

The tubes and sliders were disassembled and drained 24 hours or more into a container. I did not disassemble the damper rods and oil lock mechanism, but wiped and dried throughly with clean rags. Very, very little residual oil was present at reassembly.

This is actually about a GL, but is general enough to apply across the board... Removed forks for bushing, seal, and dust cover replacement. Cleaned them, wiped dry, reassembled, and measured out the oil by volume...377cc's right leg, 372cc's left leg. Used the measurement markings on the Honda Pro bottle, so I'm estimating a tolerance of +/- 5cc's. Pumped the forks quite a bit to fill the valve chambers. Measured height is supposed to be 7.6 inches...I'm getting 6 1/2" and 6 5/8" respectively. What gives here? Is the critical factor volume or height in the tube? Secondary to that, my fork springs have been upgraded by the previous owner to what I believe is Progressives. As opposed to the stock drawings, I have two springs instead of one. They are not under the same load since the inside one is significantly shorter. The fork cap in place would leave an approximate free air gap of two inches. Should I shim the inside smaller spring to the same static compression height as the larger one when the caps are in place?

Second year I've had the battery. It's a 14 amp Diehard gold that was dead in spring, recharged, left sitting two more months, and then irritated into starting yesterday morning. I certainly haven't been real nice to it now that I think about it... My initial check was 12.8 or so while not switched on. I'm really hoping this was just a large load that drew down the system momentarily. That would drive me nutz... :icon_wall:

After getting a close look at Racer212's bluebird last weekend, I'm inclined to go the opposite direction. Polished engine covers look SCHWEET ! Sooooo... after testing and checking main connections last night, I'm wondering/hoping/praying that it was just a case of the battery being down a bit after sitting for a couple months....??? Maybe? Hopefully? Wishfully? I had 12.56 VDC at idle. 2000 rpm raised the average ouput to 13.92 VDC. 5000 rpm steady state brought it to a peak output of 14.52 VDC. Turning on hi beam HID, a signal, heated grips, and squeezing the brake (all LED brake light with flasher) gave me a "loaded" voltage drop to average of 14.20 VDC. I still need to pull the rear cowl and check all the R/R connections and condition. Would a funky and temporarily low battery voltage lead to the tach doing this oddball dance? Did it heal itself of a minor/fluke little sniffle?

Avon is the modern day version of the Cheng Shin... I would not put them on a 10 speed bicycle if I had to ride it. YMMV...literally and figuratively.

Thanks guys! With that said... FUCK, FUCKITY, FUCK, FUCK ! The stator got replaced under warranty less than 5K miles and 2 years ago(and they scratched my stator cover at the same time...bastids). I suspected something wasn't totally right since the technician "slipped" and told me that he was a bit baffled because IIRC the AC output was only about 48 to 50 VAC on each phase. I asked him if that was normal...? His response was that it was consistantly making 14 VDC, so all must be right with the world. Now I get to fix it correctly out of my pocket. Fuckin stealerships...

Anyone got any ideas on this little anomaly? Started the bike this morning normally for the commute to work. Nice docile coast down the mountain through my neighborhood as she warmed up. I pulled out on the highway, ran the rpms up a bit, nice smooth shift to second, nice smooth shift to third, glanced down at the gauges to confirm all was right with the world, noticed my rpms were at about 9000 and climbing briskly. This might sound reasonable, if I was actually doing about 115 mph, but I was actually just passing a very sedate 38 or 39 mph. I focused on the tach for a few minutes...drop to idle indicated at 2000 rpm...uh-uh...approximately 60 mph indicated a blistering 9500 rpm in sixth gear. WTF, over? As I coasted through another residential area, I shifted to neutral, turned the key to the off position, turned it back on and restarted the engine....everything went back to "normal" state...idle is 1000 rpm, cruise at 70 in sixth gear is 4000 rpm...normal. What is my pretty little vixen doing to me? Seemed fine at lunch today going across town...

The 23 plug version was the '94 model.

Could these work with an OEM exhaust system as slip-ons?

What's another word for thesaurus?

Pay attention Bear and try to keep up...the tricks followed the question... Ding! Fries are done...

42/42 works for me too.

One available here in SW Va now .... '03 with 19K, great condition, hard bags, $5500 with bags is what I believe he is asking. $5K without bags I think....not listed because he wants a local in person transaction. I can contact and make offer if you're interested.

Any GL15 stuff at all? Do 18 shocks have any hope of fitting 15's?

I've had good luck with DieHard and Deka brands. Sears is usually convienient everywhere, and a lot of independent auto parts stores carry Deka.

My $.02 on that...the 5K and above is going to be significantly blue, in fact I think they're blue enough to get you the opportunity to talk with the local and state "howdy boys" on a regular basis here in the great Communistwealth. The bitch of it is, the mod is totally illegal, and doesn't conform to fed or state DOT standards if they wanna be pricks about it... I just don't like those random official conversations all that much I guess, especially since I usually end up getting the fuzzy end of the lollipop. 35W hi/lo and 4200K is what I've got...nice white unobtrusive color and a LOT of light.

Not been my experience so far...FWIW

Yes.

The shim goes between the bulb base ring and the headlight housing. The wire retainer clip closes and seats against the backside of the bulb base ring directly. This not only tightens the fit, it places the actual arc in a better position to be cast by the reflector. Just a friendly reminder....DO NOT touch the glass envelope with your fingers at any time during install. If you do accidentally make contact with the glass, use med quality cotton swabs soaked in alcohol to throughly clean the contact area of the glass. Let dry completely, then install. The skin oils transferred on contact will otherwise contaminate the ultra hot surface of the glass during use, causing deformation and failure in fairly short order.

I tried that and wasn't satisfied with the fit or convinced they could take the heat without gluing themselves in place and causing problems down the road. I dunno about the DDM's specifically, but it's not as much the bulb length per say as the position of the actual arc in relation to where the filament would be positioned with an incandescent.

I'm not disassembling my bike to take pics but I'll explain in as much detail as possible. Go scrounge in the garage or toolbox and find an old spark plug wire that was a take off from anything. I used spark plug wire because it is the right size and thickness, and very heat resistant. Cut a piece approximately 2 or 3 inches long to start the fitting process. I can't remember the exact length, but it isn't much. Take the short section and curl it around you finger to initially form your spacer. Place the ring of spark plug wire in the bulb housing and try to make a circle out of it that sits all the way to the bottom of the bulb hole. It doesn't have to be the perfect size, but try to get it so that there is as small of a gap as possible where the ends of the wire meet. Not much chance of significant amounts of water getting to that area, but you want it to make as good a gasket as it can be just in case. After you've formed and seated the wire grommet as deep as it will go in the socket, place the bulb in the housing and try to get the base seated against the wire grommet as flush and well fitting as possible. Close the wire bulb retaner clip now and see how it fits. The bulb base has a key tab that needs to align with the slot in the housing socket as best it can. Make sure that the base/bulb is not able to rattle around and that it is held firmly in place and as flush to the socket as it can be. There shouldn't be too much difference in most housing and socket dimensions, so I feel like it will be a near perfect fit as mine was. The depth that the actual glass bulb part extends into the housing seems to do much more to focus the light than the actual reflector position knobs do. You will still have to dial it into the sweet spot where you prefer the hot spot of the beam to be located, but it will be much easier to do and better light projection with the bulb shimmed to the back by the sprark plug wire spacer. If the arc itself is too far out, the light diffuses and is not nearly as "dense" a few yards out. HID's give great side visibility even when the beam has a very defined hotspot. I hope this helps....if not, tell me where I lost ya and I'll try again.... I also tie-wrapped my ballasts to the frame that mounts the guage cluster. They are almost perfect fit side by side and don't move at all if you use 3 or 4 large tie-wraps per ballast affixed in perpendicular fashion. I used one tie in each direction and then in an X pattern to assure they can't move around.

Proper spacing/depth of the HID bulb in the housing makes a HUGE difference. I used a section of old spark plug wire as a spacing grommet. It works wonders for how the reflector projects the light.

With my bike tuned for economy and flat highway I made it 200 miles still had 1/4 of a tank(according to the gauge). I've run out at 225....twice...

I wouldn't/didn't use threadlocker on my own. Clean what you can see....the rest will self purge when bleeding.

I've had good luck with both Deka and Diehard for several different bikes. I'm not the most faithful and diligent sort when it comes to battery maintenance either.