Warp11XX

I'm helping a friends dad out and changing the coolant in his GL-15 Wing trike. He has had the bike for about 50K miles out of 75K. The previous owner apparently switched the coolant over to the red/orange stuff fairly early in the bikes life. Is there any preferred type or brand of the extended life coolant for use in a bike? Is any or all of it safe to use in a Wing mill?

Never say never. If the FPR's weren't brand new from Honduh, they could potentially still be part of the problem. Checked the obvious stuff I would guess....fuel lines, injector bodies and seals, etc. Haven't heard of ECU problems, but couldn't hurt to try a swap if you had one available. I keep coming back to the "gas in the oil" part of your diagnostics....FPR is almost the only culprit there... Good luck and let us know what works ultimately.

Wally World carries Slime tire sealant....same stuff I bet. Slime dot com

I sooooooooooo wish!

I'm not sure if the design has changed at all with the current models regarding bulb spacing. Mine needed a shim between the bulb base ring and the housing. A short piece of 7mm spark plug wire used as a grommet is perfect. Beam focus is good there too.

I've seen readings in the 70 to 80VAC range from good, hot stators running higher rpm's. Sounds like you have a decent output one as long as it is consistent between phases. New R/R and a check to assure good ground connections should put you back in business.

R/R = Regulator/Rectifier - These are the weak point of the early (and late) model charging systems. It should be steadily putting out +14.5 +/- .3 VDC measured at the battery terminals when running at 4k RPM and above. The stator harness plug connecting to the R/R is also a common trouble spot and should be inspected for melting, burnt appearance, and solid connections. Rear shock should be firm and rebound without noticeable bounce. Excessive wear would be most indicated by soft compression resistance and any obvious visible mechanical flaws ie: fluid leakage, significant corrosion, broken parts, etc. 58K is not an issue if the bike was cared for well and serviced regularly. If not or no record available, you should probably consider valve lash check, all fluids flushed and replaced, air filter replace or service, and then ride the wheels off it....

A Honda charging system actually charging at +15V? At idle nonetheless? :icon_snooty: I'd have to see it to believe it.... That would certainly be a first! But seriously, if you're getting +15V at idle, it's probably spiking +18V to +20V at higher rpm. That would explain the swollen batteries. Your going to have to get the voltmeter out to check. If they've been "cooked", the subsequent attempt at charging would do as you describe most likely. The other option is that you've just gotten lucky and won the battery life lottery in reverse. Doesn't usually happen with Yuasa batteries though....maybe Wally World's Magna Power trash, but not Yuasa typically. Good luck! Electrical and charging problems SUCK !

Any interest in a trade for an RS-3 full 4:1 stainless system?

A slightly rusty '87 IROC-Z Camaro is bigger....just sayin....

His monkey won't come back....he spanked it too much....

It isn't just exposure that affects these connectors. Any mechanically coupled connector takes a real beating when the amperage goes up. The amperage load breaking down the connector causes the conditions that make the R/R and the stator more susceptible and prone to overheat/overcurrent and early failure. It's a catch-22 so to speak. You'll be doing all systems and your own faith in the reliability a favor to solder and make those connections as solid as possible. It will add an additional 15 minutes to changing out the R/R or stator in the future. Well worth it IMHO. Edit P.S. - The R/R output side of the harness is not the typical problem, only the three yellow wires coming from the stator. Keep the output connector as OEM. Solder the AC input yellow wires. Everything will then be peachy keen again....

Same as MitchT's thread...solder and heat shrink. Don't even bother with a new plug....just a connection to go bad that you can really afford to do without. If you're in the midst of a R/R or stator replacement, chances are that you have a soldering iron handy too....

Solder and heat shrink. Honda electrics suck from way back when and they still haven't learned anything. Everything else they do makes it worth it....

Yes...91 RON is 87 pump octane. More is better....feed her the good stuff (93 pump octane) at least occasionally. It certainly doesn't require it, but it can't hurt.

$.99 pair of earplugs, or a huge box of them for $10.00 Repacking is easy. You do need the rivet tool...borrow from a friend. Find a local place that services ovens, stoves, or kilns. They'll give you enough k-wool or similar material to do the job for cheap or maybe even free.

Clean, lube, and vigorously work the handlebar engine cut off switch. Might be a real simple to fix problem...

Anything else it might fit besides a Bird? Size and spacing?

+1 and FTFY...85K worth makes them really cheap and it's already apart.

I'm sure mine were able to rotate. Can't guarantee yours will. I actually made voice contact with the companies prior to doing it to make sure I wasn't gonna fubar anything. Both told me to insert a large screwdriver or rod into the banjo and grip the collar with padded pliers while rotating carefully. Mine were damn close out of the box anyway. I didn't have to adjust them very much at all for perfect angles and fit.

Have standard config Galfer's from Cycle Brakes on F bike and the CBX. Have the 10 line kit HEL's from HEL/UK on the Bird. Have HEL single front caliper line on the Wing. Both brands are great products. Both have the ability to carefully rotate the banjo bolts into correct alignment as needed. Both are stainless braid and stainless fittings. Fittings are insulated from banjo to reservoir and banjo to caliper by the copper sealing washers. I don't think you could go wrong with purchasing either brand. Customer service is outstanding with both companies. I particularly avoided using HEL/USA....they were in the middle of a "family" squabble about who was going to assume the USA rep rights at the time. That may all be sorted out by now though....been a few years ago.

All the Bird's clothes are off. Radiator dropped down, oil cooler dropped down, valve cover off for inspection. Valve cover off for a few days for paint since it was bubbled and peeling from shitty factory paint on and only half-ass clean surface. I'm poking around and what do I notice on my lift table? Antifreeze....just a couple drips. I start looking for the source and find a wet area at the bottom of the pump housing seeping from what appear to be weep slots. Is this a seal failure? Probable bad bearing? Why would it only leak after the radiator is out of normal position? Clamps appear tight and I can't trace the drip anywhere higher up the housing or block. WTF? Over.

Was in the process of other maintenance and needed to remove the stator plug from the harness under the left rear cowl. I had trouble getting it apart and soon found out why. The plug was badly heat warped and even burnt through in spots. Inside spade connections were literally charred and all plastic melted and burnt away to carbonized powder. Stator checks good. Best I can tell the R/R is good too. I'll be cutting off the plugs and soldering the connections soon I'm guessing... This is a warranty replacement stator too by the way. 30K miles give or take out of 48K I'd guess at this point. And my tool strap/PowerCommander strap broke, dammit.

Dropped the Bird in the driveway last night. Rashed the left lower and cracked the plastic at the lower stay, badly scratched the starter clutch cover, and lightly scratched left mirror shell. What's the color code or best way to match the case cover paint? I plan on stripping the entire cover and sanding/polishing to remove the scratches from the casting. What paint is best to use for them? Also, any brand name recommendations on plastic repair gloop to fix the crack in the lower? I've heard that the 3M stuff is really good.

Go to an auto body supplier and get either the bumper cover repair kit or the two part epoxy specifically for plastic repair.