Stinger_916

Glad to hear it worked. Actually the info came from the manual you gave me 2 years ago No kidding? Oh shit thats right, I remember sending that to you. What goes around comes around!

Problem solved. I took everything apart again but this time I used the permatex before reassembly and once I let it do its job no leaks. Thanks to Brett for recommending this product. From now on I will be removing the cap at the top of the fork and that bolt on the bottom will never se the light of day again.

Brett, what is permatex?

I just did a fork service, you know remove it from the bike and drain/replace the fork oil. I put the new copper crush washer on that drain bolt torqued it to 14 ft lbs per manual, added proper amount of fork oil, put the whole front end back together and took it out for a test spin. When I got back to the garage I noticed a bit of oil on the front rim turns out a bit of fork oil is leaking out from that bolt. Has any one ever had this happen? I just don't see where I went wrong..

My thought is that if go thru the hassel of tearing it all down you might as well replace it. I have seen some clutches go longer than 37,000 and I have seen them replaced in as little as 10,000. It's up to you.

you should try Brett (Airborne XX) I sent him my old 97 shop manual maybe he could hook you up with what you need.

Bump!!! Hell yea count me in!!!!

D208's ( which by the way Dunlop does not make anymore) I was getting 7k out of the rear and 13k out of the front. I am thinking about switching to the pilots next year after the D208 wear out

Sealth is your best friend. Beside how can anyone hear you with the 1000 watt sound systems they put in cars now a days

A friend of mine turned me on to charcoal lighter fluid. I soak down a rag, wipe the chain clean and re-wax the chain. Works great every time.

I found one of the best products to clean a chain, charcoal lighter fluid. Something about the benzine (sp?) in the fuild the will cut right thru almost all types of lube and not harm the o rings. Works much better than WD-40. Just don't smoke while doing it as if I really need to tell this group!

3600 on my 03 and I really don't want to change the oil so I think I will just go and get e new one! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Just kidding, but I cannot wait to get the bike out but with 10" of snow on the way tonight I dont think thats going to happen soon!!!! :evil:

Well according to the radar machine that the local police set up on the side of the road every so often, my spedo is 3mph off on the high side. I tell ya I love to see how high those numbers can go before I get past it.

Well I just got the notice in the mail the other day about the recall on the brake proportioning valve. I called up the local dealer and inquired about an appointment, he tells me that the bike will have to be inspected first and if the BPV needs to be fixed they will have to order the parts. So I ask the next logical question, "can't you order the parts now to save time"? He tells me that they cannot have a bunch of BPV's just "laying around the shop" and that he only orders parts as he needs them. Have any of you with 02/03 birds ran into this problem? What is the fix for this valve anyway???

I would get the riveter. I have seen the dammage a chain can do to the case, it's not pretty and costs way more to fix than the riveter costs.

So can you just hook the Vac to the bleed valve and let it just suck all the fluid thru the lines???

Has anyone ever come across a power bleader for a motorcycle? I was helping a buddy over the weekend with his brakes (on his truck) and he borrowed a power bleader from a friend of his and it was the slickest thing I have ever seen. That got me thinking if anyone made on for motorcycles? I thought it might be handy to just open the blead valve and let the tool do the work.

I went in halfs with a buddy on some motion pro carb sticks and did it my self after a a re-jet. It took some time but i just went slow and made the adjustments and before I knew it I was done. It does make a difference.