NoOne65

Is there anything you can do about wires melting at the connection...ie RR and Start solenoid? I went into the wrap and the wires are fine, its just where they connect at the RR and the solenoid

Yes it is on the left just ahead of the vent hole, which is dumb to me, why now put it behind the vent hole!!Probably the best place to relocate it would be the nose just before the oil cooler...as for the mosfet kit for 200 bucks I just cant do that anytime soon. If I knew a late model mosfet unit that would wire up like the early R1 units worked on the carb birds I would do that conversion...and yes I know the money spent on failed RR's I could do the retro kit...but again 200 dollars at one time is tough for me to do...

no I dont think I missed it but as I mentioned the '99 one was only one of several used.. if thats what you are referring to? I guess I may have not been too clear but that particular one was swapped out in '08, all of the rest were for '97...I am currently running on an OEM '97 I picked up used on ebay last year. My point was that no matter what stator or RR I used in the various different configurations I still end up with either a dear RR or a fried one. So I gather that the flywheel doesn't cause issues? Many have told me about the mosfet RR...I presume they are pretty standard nowadays? are there any that can be wired into an XX?

well as I mentioned I have used everything from low end stuff to high end stuff and everything in between over the years. its gotten to the point that when I am talking to my dad and mention battery issues he correctly assumes the RR! lol It is a pain not knowing why this one particular bike goes through so many charging issues tho...

I have had my '97 XX since 2003 and I know that the regulator is the weak link in the 'bird's design. I typically go through 1 per year on average. I have used stock Honda old and new design, R1 regulator, cheap ebay ones and electrosport.I have swapped out OEM stator with a new '99 one, a cheap ebay one and also an electrosport over the years but am still plagued by RR failures. anyone have any ideas why I might be so unlucky? could the flywheel cause any electrical anomolies?

Anyone have a right hand control switch?

I didnt do a flush just bleeding...I did order a rebuild kit Thanks Everyone

sure its possible but the fact remains I still cant get any air out of the bleed screws

ok well lets put it this way, it was MORE spongy after the pad replacement...I think I have ridden this bike enough to know the difference...Thanks

I did leave the cap on but I dont understand how that can put air in the system

Well I cant say there is no air cuz its been this way for a long time and i am just now getting to it. I just dont understand when I follow the procedure no air comes out of any bleed screws, just liquid. I think some day in the future I will de-link sorry meant the cylinder that actuates when the wheel rotates and the front brakes are applied

Just some old new pads I never used. They did have the backing plates.Its just the damned LBS...I never have problems with bleeding the front Nope I just used a screwdriver against the old pads

I referenced the manual and used the schematic. Tests it just like a potetiometer..Thanks a bunch!

Yea come payday...Ive already removed the hoses and sealed them, just want to remove them totally now

No the level stayed filled.but I kept it full and pumped basically nothing but fluid out of the clear tube...front is perfect though

both sitting still and moving...I just bled them and i still have to pump to get them firm I tried per the manual and also XX Brake Bleed

I replaced the rear pads and after I pushed the pads back into the caliper I installed them and found the air..takes 3 pushes of the pedal for it to firm up

Regulator/Rectifier and Cam chain tensionerare the most common failures I have come upon in 13 years of ownership...oh and also TIRES...

I am wondering if any of you have any PAIR blockoff plates laying around?

So first off I want to thank all of you for your advise, it helped me get straight. The issue was the carbs...once I started thinking it wasnt just #3 I removed them and soaked them in the gallon bucket of chem tool overnight cuz just the spray carb cleaner just wasnt cutting it. Then pressurized water and finally spray carb cleaner...sync and pilot adjustment and my XX runs like a bat outof hell like she was designed to do!

no leaks and sync is right on the money for all carbs...I will be playing with the pilot screww but just wondering which way to go...I decided to go richer from 2 1/2 to 3 turns...we'll see how that goes

So I went ahead and swapped out the other 2 carbs and short test run it has mid and hi range power back...now I just have to futz with the idle...After throttle is applied it kinda hangs and then slowly decreases to idle...too lean?

Yes carb sync was checked and done if needed after each removal and remount

You mentioned earlier you had a set of wires and coil? The other set of carbs isnt complete but the 3rd carb was good and I swapped it out and no change...so #3 compression is good,carb is good and coil swap most likely means they are good that leaves plug wires (Plugs are actually new)...could any other carb cause this issue? I only assume its number 3 cylinder issue because of the temperature difference between 1,2,4 and 3...I am considering swapping out 1 and 2 also...number 4 spare I had to drill out pilot screw and now it has brass stuck in the threads...I need to find a tap that fits it to make it useable