Mekanix

Uh, they probably are worth a lot more sold individually. Most hobby electronics techs will probably already have a stash. I suppose you could individually bag each type of resistor and sell them off. You would get more that way, but it would be a pain in the butt. I don't have much use for them, since I usually need capacitors, diodes, logic and the like. I could throw them in my shop and store them there till I need them. I priced these carbon film resistors and the ones still in manufacture are going for about .02 a piece. A full box would cost about $20 in parts. I could part with that, plus the cost of shipping, but I really think most of them will just sit in my workshop, unused.

I got a nasty case of tennis elbow and lost almost all the hp I gained last year. I'm almost healed, but what kind of gay injury is "tennis elbow"?!? They couldn't name it hunter's elbow or mechanic's elbow? Jeez Luckily I learned some eating habits and it wasn't so bad. Also, I have a better mindset so I didn't lose much

Right fairing, tail cowling, wiring harness to the cpu.

I've already decided a long time ago that the next superbike I get will be shaft drive. That will actually be the #1 selling point in my next bike. I don't mind the cleaning and maintenance, but I like the long distance with never thinking about lubing my chain, or dealing with the nasty sticky fling-off from lubing systems.

I failed

Have you cleared your cookies and temp files? Works for me... I'll give it a try in a few minutes and let you know, miss reading all the news at work instead of working...

I can no longer look at this board from work, fwiw. Keeps logging me out...

Have a 99. The stock unit went tits up at about 46k.

There is an allen in mine, but I can turn em by hand if I try to.They spin, I think.

Dirty wire will not solder, nor will corroded (unless you use old acid core flux - if you can find it anymore). The oxidation will prevent the fresh, clean solder from sticking. I melt the solder onto my two wires to be joined, put the wires together and flow the solder from them together, making a solid joint. If my solder won't flow on the wire, I cut back or clean until I get to a spot it will flow onto. Remember that electrons flow on top of the wire, not thru it. Dirty surfaces = poor electrical flow. always have clean wire to solder to if you can.

I currently have Dunlop 208's on my Bird. Just did a run with a guest driving her, ran up the mountain with great grip. Came down with newly found confidence. After a little Red Bull and waiting for the worst of the rain to pass we saddled up and Chris took my Bird behind me as we ran ~80 into town in a heavy downpour as we tried to outrun the storm. I decided it was a little crazy, even for me, to continue and we stopped to quench our thirst and wait out the worst of the storm for an hour (the time to process a beer) before heading out again and running into the front of the storm again as we got back to base. Chris has ~6 months of experience and 1 time riding in the rain, so I took it easy on him. Absolutely no issues with grip, control or anything. Price is about average, and the Dunlops handle great on the Bird with no complaints from me or Chris. (I've been riding over 10 years). Chris now goes home with confidence in the design of the machine and trust in the tires. He thinks he has gained about a level and a half in experience. I know Dunlops cup( ), but these 208's are pretty good. Mileage is bleah, but the grip on twisties is where I want my money spent. I am thinking Michelins next, but I don't know if I am willing to move away from the confidence the 208's give me. Duc is on Bridgestone Battlax's and she handled equally well. Also, she did splendidly on them at the track. I would probably put either one on or try the Michelins with no worries either way.

I was thinking race skins too. I might just get a set for the price. Can't be worse than replacing panels at over $200 a piece from the stealer. The whole set for the cost of 2 panels. Now if I can just stop spending money on guns and ammo, err beer and porn I might be able to afford em.

I did not want to cut and splice (I'm a lazy bitch) so I just got the stock reg for now (about 6 months old). I am getting the electrosport before the year is over.

Unless you are HEAVILY modified, I wouldn't bother. In race carbs, I used to drill holes in the butterfly valves to increase air flow at idle. This would prevent opening the butterfly valves beyond idle position and would keep from engaging other circuits at idle. The increased air flow would draw more air thru the venturi circuit, keeping air/fuel correct but the butterflies in idle position. Sets big block idle at about 1000 and only used for racing.

Junk in the carbs. Try turning in your idle screws in all the way and then back out if you are too lazy to take em apart. Count the turns in or you wont get em back right. That may crush the grit and let it flow thru, or it may damage the seat, but I don't think so. Also run some sea foam in the tank.

Here I am, spouting sacriledge again. I had a click sound when braking, thought it was kinda weird. I just pulled the triple tree apart, packed the bearings and put it back together. This was just over 30K and I am over 51K now, no issues. I'm a cheap lazy bastard with lots of grease, oil and cleaning solutions in my garage and a girlfriend I send home when I wanna get dirty.

Since I got my 696 Duc, I have noticed something I never noticed before in Harley heavy Albuquerque.... the coolness factor. We all know what kind of bike the bird is and facts can not be disputed, but... I have gotten more "compliments" on the duc from Harley riders than I can count. It's really hard cause I am used to defending my Japanese bird and here are a bunch of old salts saying how cool my bike is. I have an issue, I guess. Anyhoo, an old 620 decked out can be had if you shop for it, coolness factor is up there, rideability on my monster is amazing, compared to the bird. I am very happy with my little 696 and I don't see a 620 or a 695 with some miles as being too far from what I got. Also, you really have to look to see the engine designation on a bike now. FWIW, I rarely see over 85 mph, unless I am on an isolated street somewhere with no other traffic. My 696 can make it to 100 with no problems, and still looks like a good bike and doesn't make me look like a gorilla fucking a football at a street light.

+1 on the rear shock, you might be undersprung for the weight. +1 on lowering the front. I went 8mm, from the locking ring to the top of the clip on. I haven't tested any farther and you should lower the front "with caution" if at all. When I first bought Dunlop 208s, I had to air them up to 45 psi to keep them from being squirrely. A few miles on them and it was back down to 32. Just a thought.

+1 My ex wife was the same kind of bitch, ... er woman. Once I moved out and started the divorce proceedings cause I was tired of giving up everything, she kept talking about how she should have let me this and let me that... too little too late. If you are giving it up cause you don't enjoy it, be honest and just get rid of it. If it's in your blood, you WILL REGRET IT FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE! Not just doing it, but hating yourself for not standing up for yourself, and hating her for putting you in that position. Trust me, I know. I never knew a woman I could stand that didn't respect a man who stood up for what he believed in. I met a lot of women in bars when I was single again that happily told me their boyfriend/husband was home while she was having a girls night. All the time rubbing on my junk and trying to get me to take em home. From the liqour induced conversations I had, a vast majority of them called their boyfriends/husbands everything from their little bitch to a pushover. Take that for what it's worth, but to me it hammered it home that if you entertain a woman like that, they will take everything they can and leave the husk, just like a vampire. I am not saying all women are like that, far from it. I am saying that a woman that makes you give up things for her will set the precident and you will give up everything and she will ditch your ass when there is nothing left.

Charging system at 48K What toolkit?

Stuck at 208-210. The first 2 weeks of May, crazy crazy schedule, hard to stay focused. No excuses, it's just life. Second two weeks, took a look at my nutrition, RDA and stuff, was much more interested in seeing where I was with that. Also, found my blood pressure was trending a little high (145/90) so I did a little research. Began introducing flaxseed oil into my diet. Trying to find a stable base with the added oil calories that still moves down. Flaxseed oil benefit? Lower bp (131/83 average) healthier skin, less overall aching from joints and back. Making adjustments to my current diet and moving to a more raw food based diet, at least trying more veggies for now, with a gradual move to more raw ones. Of course I am blowing it out of the water this weekend, just bought a 5 pound pork butt, wondering how best to smoke it... or at least which end to light. Boiled Rutabaga chunks in the fridge make a pretty good snack food.

I insulated mine, very thankful for it. Winter is not so much, but the difference in the summer is amazing. When I was doing it, I could feel the difference in the heat on my face while hanging the insulation in the ceiling. I'm still shocked at how much cooler it is to work in there.

I went 6mm in the rear shock and also had wood plank issues. It was more like using a 2X6 under the center stand to do chain maintenance and real bad lean when parked on sidestand. What I ended up doing, which you should consider with great caution, is that I moved the front forks up in the triple trees to about 8mm. The fork change is more direct than the geometry involved in the shimming of the rear shock, so it is subtle. I moved up slowly, and I think stock height from the top of the triple tree to the retaining ring is supposed to be 4mm, but don't quote me on that. I have moved it around a little and I don't notice a whole lot of difference in handling by sliding the forks up. Understand that changing steering geometry will cause deadly headshake if you go too far, but I don't know how far is too far and I found that sticking an 8mm between the clip on and the triple tree, tightening the tree clamps and then putting the clip ons down where they belong did not cause head shake and allows the rear tire to spin freely for chain maintenance/ tire pressure checks. Also, lean while parked is diminished. YMMV

Im assuming that you are using solvent based and not catylized finish. If it were me, I would wet sand with 1000 grit and respray the color coat, double checking your distance and the thickness of your mix for temp and humidity. Youi're better off using slightly thinner paint and slightly thinner coats than too much. Solvent based finishes will "melt" together, forming a single coat. I think either way, you are going to end up all the way back to square one, regardless of the type of finish you used. I do find the catylized finishes more forgiving, but the expense of safety gear can be prohibitive for the in the garage type of painter.

I've never heard of catching fire either, but I have heard of wrap causing embrittlement in the metal, causing cracking over long term use. +1 on ceramic coated.