RXX

Boy, that was GREAT! It really cleaned up the nuts. I had buffed the rust off the studs, so they were already cleaned. But the nuts were really rusted on the insides. Thanks! I guess I won't have to part her out after all.......

I am about to put on my delicious new pipes (2 bros shotgun) Since I already have them off, should I wrap the headers? I don't care one way or the other, but if I ought to do them, I should do them now. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the advice, guys. I did notice some of the nuts were on much looser than the others. Probably the result of uneven compression of the gaskets. I will try the heat up, cool down, tighten technique, Eric. I will install the new gaskets anyway. They are way too small for cock rings, at least for me. I will save the money nexxt time. I will look more closely and soberly for them. Hobi, I LIKE the die idea of yours. I do not have a set of metric tap & dies. Shit, guess I'll have to make a trip to sears this weekend. As for the high temp anti seize, do I put it on, tighten, then heat, then tighten again? I guess what I am asking is does it set up or anything?

I just removed my stock header and noticed quite a bit of rust on the header studs. More prominent on cylinder 1 and decreasing in amount across the head. (By cylinder 1 I mean the most left hand side) I buffed it off. Is this telling me anything? BTW, I am sucking down, respectfully and with gratitude, some of Wisconsin's finest, Sprecher Premium Reserve. AWESOME!! AND....... I did not see any gaskets at the head junction. I suppose I should install new ones anyway IAWSOP?

Switch over to Evans NPG coolant.... it doesn't boil, no spill (pus it's clear so if it ever did boil over you wouldn't see it!) http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm

What a timely question! (I do not have an answer, but let's hijack the thread AND get your question answered along the way......) I got a Datel voltmeter and was hoping to install it in my mirror like a link on their site, but the bird's mirror doesn't have enough space due to the light module in it. Or doesn't it? Has anyone had any success putting one in the mirror? It rally is a neat place for it. Until then, I am using the voltmeter in my radar detector, but I am about to place it where I do not have visual access to it. Hijack over. Hope you find a good place for it. Since you have a voltmeter now, if you want continuous readout and visual access, maybe a fairing panel. That is where I put a lot of stuff. Why do you want an unswitched voltage?

#7 #8 I'm gonna file off the foot thingys since my pipes are on one side now. Thanks, Matt

Say it ain't so, Doug!!

Has anyone here started a project like this? We have an average wind speed of 6 MPH and I can go up as high as I want with a pole. What has stopped anybody from doing this?? Does anyone have a set of plans or one of those DIY videos?

D.I.D. specs rate the bird for a 50(530)ZVM2, 110 links. (This is on their website) They only come in 120 links sets, so I'll have to trim it down. This is supposed to be the new "best" out there. Anybody can tell me different? BTW, Ron Ayers has a stock "O" ring chain for $203.00, this ZVM2 sells for $182.59 (part # is 12269, BTW)

Uh, is it still available? Naw, traded it on local CL for a bicycle seat form a girl scout camp, straight trade.....

Actually, I did not use the VSS - much too convoluted of an install that way (I believe Philip did though - or was at least looking into it). You will still discontinue cruise by all your listed ways just using a tach signal. Only benefit to using VSS is that you will keep speed control by speed rather than RPM. Using tach signal only, if you set your speed at say 75mph in 6th gear, rpm would probably be somewhere around 4K. However if you downshift to 5th gear and resume cruise, speed will be set to 4K instead of 75mph. I usually only set cruise for highway use in 6th gear so VSS not an issue for me. Still use a throttle lock for in town usage. Install not terribly difficult, but you may want to wait until after RacerXX unless you have saddle time to iron out the bugs. I already had tapped into the VSS for my pro-oiler, so it was not a big deal.

Is this OK with you, Mekanxx?

Then, do you want them, or what? Since they have essentially no value, PM me your address and I will ship them to you no charge if you can use them. Just be sure to whistle "From the Halls of Montezuma" every time you use one. That would make Dad happy.

Our kitchen/DR/foyer has a parquet floor in desperate need of refinishing. If I had the time, I wood (get it?) sand it and refinish it myself. Wifey saw a local ad for MrSandless and I went on the website and checked it out. Before I get into an estimate process, does anyone here have ay experience with the company or the process? I am a little leery of it, since nothing I have seen about it goes into any detail about how it works. Does anyone have any experience refinishing oak parquet in general? Ours has had 15 years of hard use and neglect and really looks pretty shitty. Thanks in advance!

I got these when I cleaned out Dad's shop several years ago. He was an electrical genius with many, many patents to his name in the agribusiness. I have no idea of thier worth, and don't really care to give them for shipping to someone that has a real use for them if the value is negligible. However, if somebody says, "Golly, those are worth $100 on Ebay", then come on, cut me a little of the action. First realistic proposal gets them. Thanks!

Craig, I believe, was interested in my linkage. I think I just followed the instructions. Here are some pictures: Note the last two pictures are of the speedo sensor. I took them just to show where it is located. I THINK I spliced the grey wire for both the pro-oiler and the CC.

I'll send you Jonathan's old 2.0 plus headset Thursday if you still want it.

OK, since you'll bite, I got yer fork slider bearings right here, right next to Hobi's socket.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I guess it has come down to going on and filling the cooler with beer, getting buzzed, and tearing her down for the winter. My projects have multiplied. Wheels: I got a new front rim from Toxxic, I guess I'll put a new tire on it since my old Pilot Road has 11,000 on it. That will give me a set of rims to put another set on for nexxt time. (BTW, Toxx....I don't think I need a THIRD rear rim, but I'll keep my eyes open) Chain: OK OK I'll get another, but FUCK I do not want to spend the money. Especially since I was hoping to get an 18T front sprocket when the time was right. I got a D.I.D. last time and I will shop around for another. Since the chain side of my bike will be nekkid (no muffler) I might git a real purty one. Pro-Oiler: During my trip up to JC with Oldgeezer & Redxxrdr my control module appeared to go on the fritz off & on. I will have to look in to that. Plus, I got a new "third generation" nozzle that I am eager to install. Exhaust: Since I am getting a new set & have to take off plastics anyway to put in new headers, I might as well clean up that side too. PAIR blockoff: I got a set from Matt (paypal on it's way, brother) that should help clean up over the engine. Vacuum canister: as soon as I get a good understanding of what I need to do, I will do it while plastic is off. Suspension: The set I put on last year now has about 15K miles on it. Should I pull the forks & rear shock and have CTR go over them? I do not really feel like dropping the bucks, but I am NOT gonna do that shit myself. Electrical/communication: I need to send my Autocomm unit back & have them look into a short that has developed in on of the female jacks. I am getting intermittant mono. I am going to try to get one primary electrical gang up under the cowl and tie all my stuff into it. I have too many individual power lines going to the back gang, and hopefull that will clear up several issues. I want to hide my radar detector and have it switched remotely. I am going to become familiar with Molex, I suspect. I still want to get all my shit hid under plastic as much as possible so the only stuff showing will be satellite radio, Zune, and GPS. BTW, thanks, guys I have a ProMotion chain kit from my last R&R. If I take off my forks, yeah, I would appreciate the loan of a fork bearing wrench if anyone has one. Dropping the bike: I went in on the GB for those mushroom thingys that I need to install. Clothing optional. BTW, Forget the chain, do you really eat white rice & ketchup? No, I eat black-eyed peas on white rice and cornbread with ketchup. What? You didn't grow up poor in Mississippi?

Well, this is shit. I have 2 rear wheels, both with holes in them. Bad news is that the fuckers just won't hold a plug; good news is one of them was bought with a road hazard warranty from Cycle Gear in Redding, CA for $24. Got a new tire today for $68 off retail, not too shabby. Wifey's not gonna let me boot the other tire, so I am going to be in the market for 2CT's in a couple of months. Anyway, since the wheel is off, I finally get a chance to get a close look at my chain. I have ridden about 3,000 miles on it with a "tick" that is chain speed dependent, when energy is applied in a forward motion fashion. I assume I have a frozen link. I haven't been over the entire chain yet (got called in for supper. Black eyed peas & cornbread with white rice & ketchup, crispy fried okra, and steamed broccoli) but I did find one link that was very very stiff. It will articulate, but very very poorly. I sprayed it with WD-40 but that didn't seem to loosen it up. Could that be the issue? Is there any other trick I can use? The chain has 29,000 miles on it. I use a pro-oiler, so it should be oiled enough. Also, with 49K on it, is it time to replace rear wheel bearings? Is there an easy way to ascertain play? Regards, Philip

I have a race-tech OEM rebuild shock on mine also....it had a schrader valve put on it for the N2. I bought it used, though, so I cannot give you a rebuild price. Go th their website & find a tech near you, get the particulars from him. Good luck!

Electronic flasher here, too. Plug 'n' play. I got a "trick" flasher that can be taught to do several types of flash sequences, most of which are pretty annoying.

On my '99 I can feed the connectors through the hole one at a time w/o much trouble. After that you can hold them in place with clothes pins. If it gets lose and falls back in, I use one of those long grabber thingys to reach in & fish it out. So it can be done.

Well, I guess the drought is over and I am caught 4 fat tires to the wind and needing to unplug the main rainspout. You know, the one wifey will walk DIRECTLY under tonight in the dark & get soaked and come in to find me passed out, trying to get a little sleep before my 18 hour shift tomorrow? The one where she lets me know she got wet, and asks, "I thought you were going to get the ladder, climb up on the roof, and clean it out?" I'm fucked. Or not..... Hmmmmmm, beer and ladders and real tall (3 story) wet roofs don't mix. I know this because I met a quadraplegic who had (failed) to do just about the same thing, and he was a baptist, so was prolly sober. Then the muse says to me..... "Philip, beer and internal combustion engines were made for each other. Feel the force, it is strong within you. Seek out the appropriate loud tool for the job." LEAF BLOWER!!! Just cranked that puppy up (in the garage, of course, it is raing pretty damned hard) and it miraculously sputters to life, scaring cats & dogs into the house. I pushed the nozzle as best I could into the lower spout, and after being subjected to a shower of leaves, sticks, roofing grit & a few old nails, the flow started. Sweet! Time for spaghetti & beer, satisfied is I.