blackhawkxx

The bikes are the cream of the crop. I would have a very hard time parting with them.

I had to look for it but you might find this link useful for your bike. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31635

They did put less clutch plates in the FI models. Don't know about your problem.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=81166

I was really tempted to buy and try that coated FI header that was for sale here but my 97 is perfect in the jetting department and was afraid that might change it. Plus, I do like the RPM's.

I have never heard about the twin wall headers. Did you cut one open or read that somewhere?

So this list does not recommend the factory Honda filter? BTW-thanks for the list and the 1500 Goldwing uses the same filter as the XX.

I'll take them, they'll go with the staintunes. I just have to figure out shipping to Canada or perhaps Bellingham,Wash. Greig Good, if they got any cheaper, I wouldn't have been able to stop myself.

A tank of 93 fuel might be able to tell you something. If the problem stops, you know that it is knocking, then you can adjust the timing.

You know how women react?

I never had a washer included.

Yes it does but there is no point in revving it past red line.

When it is 80F, in about 30 seconds I can turn off the choke. I start mine in the garage and back it outside, turn the choke part way off, put my jacket on and turn choke off the rest of way. When colder, a little longer on.

At that price, I feel like buying it and I have a 97 Bird.

Did you damage yours or just wear them out?

A very nice Fieldsheer jacket in like new condition. Size 52. The only reason that I am selling it is because it is too large for me. I have only wore this jacket a few times and it was cool out (no sweat). I can not tell from new, no wear. It is a heavy weight jacket with a full sleeve liner and C.E. armor at elbows and shoulders. Also has many pockets and vents. $170.00 shipped to the lower 48.

46942 on the OD.

No matter what the subject is, someone will say they did it without harm and I have no doubt that it is true. I found the subject interesting and if I had a track bike, I would look for an additive that would stop the corrosion but would be permitted by the track.

I searched online and couldn't find the letter from Sportrider magazine but found a post on another forum that summarized it pretty well. I have never heard of distilled water eating aluminum before. In the October 2013 issue of Sport Rider, there is a question posted in their regular series entitled "YOUR ABNORMAL GUIDE TO THINGS ABNORMAL". The question is "Water Water Everywhere". The reader states that he purchased a used 2006 GSXR750 track bike. When purchased, it had distilled water with no additives and no problems. At the end of the summer, he drained the water and replaced it with green, phosphate free auto parts store antifreeze for the winter. In the spring, he drained the cooling system and replaced it with a bottle of LP Ice Water and topped it off with distilled water. After a few track days, he noticed no visible damage but noticed a severe leak. He had to replace the radiator. He was told by the motorcycle radiator shop (are there such?) that the radiator corroded from the inside, and was due to any of the following: distilled water, LP Ice Water, SuperCool, distilled water with Water Wetter, etc. That they all cause corrosion. They recommend running straight tap water. According to the author of the letter, Royal Purple's Purple Ice states not to use distilled water. So, he goes on to ask what would cause the corrosion? Andrew Trevitt (Senior Editor of Sport Rider) responded that there are two schools of thought when it comes to using distilled water in a radiator. One is that tap water has mineral content and with with those minerals comes ions and an electrical charge. The charge can lead to corrosion and the minerals can lead to deposit buildup over time. Distilled water has no minerals and no charge to lead to corrosion. The second is that because distilled water has no mineral content it is more apt to initiate corrosion, as there are no minerals in the water to balance out any chemical reactions. Mr. Trevitt (Senior Editor) forwarded the letter to Royal Purple and asked for a comment. The company responded that under normal use, chemically, distilled/demineralized/deionoized can be corrosive to aluminum components. This is due to the fact that the water is stripped of all minerals (being left with just about only hydrogen and oxygen, H20 ) and the water has a chemical need to replace the minerals, it is hungry so to speak and it will happily take the aluminum. This is a chemical attack. Further, they state that the cooling tubes and fins are aluminum and don't need much corrosion to leak. The OEM recommendation (in the gixxer I presume) is a 50 percent water and 50% antifreeze mix. The response goes on to say that distilled water is a holdover from when cooling systems consisted of brass/copper radiators and steel in the engine and water pump. The Royal Purple company recommends filtered drinking water or tap water. They prefer cheap grocery store bottled water. They recommend replacement every four to five years (say what?!?!?!?) The article states that the other common form of corrosive attack is electrical. Because of all the electrical components, stray voltage often finds it way into the coolant system. If the radiator is not properly grounded, over time the electrolytic action will remove aluminum and pinholes can occur in the radiators thin sections. The cooling system should be checked for voltage with anything above 300 millvolts considered too high. Additional ground of the radiator should be installed.

If you change your sprocket size, you can't use the green for a gauge anymore.

Give us a ride report.

On their website, if you click on Compatible Motorcycles, it don't even list the CBR1100XX.

It seems obvious to me that the dipstick is screw in. I don't think I've seen a bike without a sight glass that uses any other kind. It's not something you want to have come off. The key is always motor off and on a level surface. The latter part is the hard bit. If you had a sight glass on your bike, you'd see how even a slight angle can make a big difference in how much oil shows up. Zero, once again, stop, read the post again. He don't want to know if the dipstick screws in but when you are reading the oil level, do you unscrew it and read it or if you unscrew it, wipe it off, return it without screwing it in, remove it and read it. OK?

Zero, stop, go back and read the question again. Maybe a good rule for life.

You are crazy for selling a bike that looks that good.