Dotetcher
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Posts posted by Dotetcher
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Oh well, on to working on the jeep.
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Buttoning the bike back up, pipe clamps fucked. Didn't think of checking them out when taking everything apart. Dumbass.
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Both. This bike has close to 130000 miles. Ridden hard. Put away wet. Seriously now. Ridden coast to coast, all times of the year, salted roads and unfortunately salt water a few times. Outer Banks. Rte 12. One road in, on road out....sometimes.
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Just finished it at 185. Feels right. went to harbor freight this morning and bought a 1/4 drive torque wrench. Worked like a charm.
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1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:
Haynes is WAY off. '97 factory manual calls for 21nm./15 ft.lb. But the '99-'00 manual calls for 20nm/14ft.lb. like the Haynes. Honda calls them 'exhaust pipe joint nut'.
I've always just done them by feel, but if I were gonna use specs I'd use the newer one.
The difference between 177inlbs or 185 inlbs. If you're doing them by feel probably not much of a difference I would think.
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Or 177 inlbs on this side of the pond. Thank you sir!
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Replacing the header on my '97 XX and cant find my manual anyone have the torque values for header bolts. TIA
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Thanks dejah. I missed this post. I found one from a 97 at a salvage yard in California. Should be here thisweek.
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Thanks Joe
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The one on my 1997 has just rusted through at the base.Anything special I should be doing before trying to loosen the nuts. Is shearing the bolts off and issue? Alternate heating and penetrating oil or not necessary? I do NOT want to shear any of these bolts off. TIA
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I'm looking at a 2001 with the two brothers exhaust. The can seems a bit higher though I didn't take any measurements. I was wondering if the can would be too close to the side case.
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Anyone have this combination?
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Once a year. Rent a house on the beach on Hatteras Island (Rodanthe-Waves-Salvo) for a week. 11-12 hour ride. Just interested in getting there.
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6 hours ago, mikesail said:
just as a point of reference for this topic, I believe that the oil cooler is supplied with a separate low pressure feed, it does not carry the high pressure supply line. Thus most any oil proof hose should work in a pinch. Most any motor vehicle plumbing can be upgraded with pieces from a racing hose supply shop, and often at a good price compared to OEM.
A local mechanic suggested the same thing.
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Pretty much rlde year round here in upstate new yawk weather permitting. Salt on the roads from october-november to march april. Plus the occaisional Foot and a half of saltwater when vising the outer banks. You know Rte 12... one road in...one road out...sometimes.
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What do you recommend flushing with?
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So...alternate applications of heat and cooling (3 rounds) and then applying something called NANO penetrating lubricant (couldn't find Kroil locally) and letting it sit for 24 hours. Results are all 8 bolts loosen with no issues. Lines should be delivered by tomorrow. Will be up and running by the weekend. Thanks very much for your help.
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Thanks again for all the suggestions. Just found a set on ebay for $37. Snapped em up. Now all I have to do is get the old ones off without shearing the bolts. Been heating them and letting them cool as suggested. I'll let you know how I make out/
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Part numbers for the '97 and '98 are the same, 15510-MAT-000. Part number for the '99 is 15510-MAT-E00. Only change is the E in the last three characters. Any cross referencing gurus on here?
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Well, bad news. Pipes to oil cooler for the '97 are obsolete. No longer available from honda. Pipe is not cracked as far as I can tell but definately corroded. Leaking mid-pipe. Pretty sure non-repairable unless you guys have a suggestion? Thanks for all your help by the way. Hey Joe! Got anything laying around?
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If it was only 3000 miles closer.
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50 minutes ago, The Krypt Keeper said:
you talking about removal of bolts correct?
You are correct sir. Tnx for the suggestions. Going shopping for small torch now.
torque specs for header nuts/bolts
in The Garage
Posted
You should have seen the lines to the oil cooler. They went last year.