Dotetcher

K&N oil filters have a nut welded to the top of the filter. Think its 12mm. I never take plastic off or use a screwdriver to change oil on my '97. Couple of bucks xtra for the filter is well worth it IMHO.

That's where I got the $6.95 price from. Cheapest I could find them locally is $8.49 from NAPA.

Where's the cheapest place to get them? I found them for $6.95 a piece + shipping.

When removing my front wheel I back my bike up to my chain link fence. I run a tie down through a strong part in the fence and through the rear grab rail. While pushing down on teh back (while on the centerstand) I cinch up the tie down. I've used the bumper of my truck before also.

How did your installation go? Did the bulbs fit perfectly or did you have to work something out like some others had to? I got both sets and hoping to install this Saturday with some help from Speed99 Rich I had to come up with something for a spacer. When you remove the stock bulb you will see it sets into a piece of plastic? that has the electrical connections the wiring harness plugs into. This adds about 1/4 inch to the depth of the base of the bulb. I tried to mount the new bulbs without adding a spacer and it didn't work. Bulb was loose enough to flop around with the little spring locked in place. Anyway, I had some heavy duty rubber fuel line (get it at NAPA?) that I cut to the thickness of the plastic spacer on the stock bulb and then sliced it so I could wrap it around the base of the bulb. This seems to work just fine. I mounted the ballast to the inside of the fairing to the flattest part I could find which happened to be just above the tab the air intakes for the oil cooler are mounted to. I used some heavy duty velcro instead of the 2 sided tape that came with the kit. Got that at Home Depot. Its 2" wide and comes in different lenghts. I've used it to mount my radar detector and GPS to my tank bag. Works great. I used the little ties they sent to mount the exciters to the metal bar that passes in back of the instrument cluster. The only bodywork I removed was the windshield and the two inside panels just below the instrument cluster. It took me a couple of hours but that was because I just had a fuckin' tooth pulled and my mind was a little more dazed and confused than usuall. If you have any ?'s feel free to give me a call. I'm sending you a PM.

Got my set yesterday. What a difference!

I'm looking to add some insulation to my attic and am leaning toward the type you blow in (cellulose). Makes sense both economically + only have a 19.5" square access panel to enter the attic space. I can rent the machine and buy bags of the insulation from HomeDepot. Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

Peter According to the shop manual if you test for continuity between any one of the three yellow wires and ground and there is continuity the stator is bad. I did this test when I was going through my problems this spring and my stator was bad. I replaced it and the rectifier (rectifier was bad also) and everything has been great since. I ordered a stator for a newer model XX than mine (a '97) by mistake but used it anyway. They have a higher output (think its about 60 watts more) than the OEM stator for the '97. I bought an Electrex regulator from Partsmonster and the combination has been doing just fine.

Better hope she doesn't read this list.

I'm on my 3rd set of Z6's and my only complaint is the punctures I've had on the last 2 rears. I'm getting around 6000 miles on the rear, abit more on the front. I've also had a puncture (rear) on the Avons (45/46) I run on my Concours. Shitty luck??? It did teach me to start carrying a plug kit and a 12v compressor. Saved my ass on the Saddle Sore 1000 I did a couple of weeks ago. Otherwise I'd probably still be stuck in the wilds of northern Vermont. I get my tires from Southwest Mototires and mount and balance them myself.

Check for continuity between all three of the yellow wires and ground. According to the manual if there is continuity the stator is bad. I just went through this recently. Replaced the stator and within a week the rectifier went south. I think my situation was that both were going at the same time. I just got the Electrex rectifier from Joe yesterday. Only took four days between placing the order and recieving the part. Great service! So far things are OK

This is from a thread on the PUB. So the answer would be yes.

For those that may be interested. I've installed the stator in my '97 I got from Ron Ayers. The one they sent was for the later year xx's. I spliced the connector from the old stator onto the new stator because the connections were different. I've been told by some on the Concours owners group it should work fine. So far it does!!

Latest update. Ron Ayers sent me the wrong stator. Looks the same but the connector on the end is different. The original has a config of 2 female recepticles parallel and one perpendicular, sort of a T formation. The one that was sent has 3 parallel recepticles (lll). The stator itself seems to be the exact same dimensions as the old one. I've heard the newer stators have a higher output than the earlier ones so maybe this isn't a bad thing. So what do I do? a. send the wrong one back and get the right one. b.pick up a wiring harness off a newer bike and just use the wire for the stator and rectifier. (would this work?) c. cut the connector off the old stator and wire it to the new one. d. Hookers I'd rather go with c. if posssible. Has anyone ever done this and if so how do you figure which wire goes to which recepticle. Oh yeah. If a phone call would be easier PM me and I'll give you my cell #.

Thanks Warchild. Whats the red goop you put around the cable where it enters the cover?

Looks to be a relatively easy job. This will be my first one so is there anything I should watch out for. Thanks guys. Oh yeah. Its a '97. Fastest color.

How about cross referencing stators from different bikes? I have a friend who has a stator from a 1998 CBR 900. He says the alternator cover looks excactly like the cover from my '97XX and was wondering if the stators were the same. I've noticed the part #'s are different but the diagrams on the parts fiche look excatly the same. Wishful thinking on my part.or are they the same?

I still think your stator is fine. What do you consider to be continuity? What's the actual meter reading? Continuity is a completed circuit. Multimeter is set to sound a tone if there is continuity, which it does on all three yellow wires to ground. The service manual says if this occurs replace the stator. Am I missing or misunderstanding something? I'm definately no expert and don't mind being told I'm not doing something correctly.

The connector is fine. No melting and no corrosion.

I get a reading of between .4-.5 ohms between yellow wires. Like I said there is continuity between ground and all three yellow wires.

I've been haveing an intermittent problem with the battery discharging since late last year. First noticed the problem when using Gerbing gear when it started to get chilly. I connected a digital multimeter a couple of weeks ago and noticed the numbers not at spec. Charging voltage when RPMs at 5000 would waver between 13.5 and 15 volts. The battery discharged fully yesterday. I just pulled in the driveway when the gauges (speedo) died. I've run the tests in the service manual and there seems to be a problem. I charged the battery enough to start the bike and put the Multimeter on it while the bike was running, brought it up to 5000 rpm and the voltmeter didn't budge.. Stayed at 12.8 volts. I checked for continuity between the 3 yellow wires (the ones in the regulator harness)and ground and there was continuity in all 3. According to the manual that's a bad thing. At that point they say replace the stator. So I guess I'm in the market for a stator. Any suggestions where I can get one cheap. It's $165 at Ron Ayers. Is it worth trying to find one used?

That would be the simple way to do it. I on the other hand like to over complicate shit to no end. :ohshit:

Starting to squeek and do that herky jerky rubber against metal not sliding to well kinda thing. Is it time to rebuild the master cylinder or is there an easier fix for this? I've never rebuilt a master cylinder before but I would imagine its not that difficult.

Remove headlight bulb connector. Remove rubber dust cover. Unhook the springy bulb retainer thing (push towards front of bike and down. Remove bulb and socket. Remove bulb from socket. All pulling. No twisting.

Bikes treating me great. Got a little over 94000 miles on it right now. More reliable than my soon to be ex-wife. Lot more fun too.