XXBIRD

wassup.with.the.dots.in.between.each.word?.It.has.been.more.than.a.month.but/you.couldn't.buy.a.keyboard? :?

Your choice; local stealer or RonAyers. Next time make sure to use Locktite. They will never come loose. :wink:

:holyshit: :shock: :holyshit: :shock: :holyshit: :shock: :holyshit: Fork is fully compressed, spring and the spacer collar out. Damper rod can be in our out (I tired and measured if it made any difference for the anal retentive ones - tranlates as myself). Here is the link for detailed description of how I did it while forks are mounted on the bike. If you have a vacuum brake bleeder, mesure and mark the space you want to leave on the line and insert the line into the fork. It will suck the oil the tip of the line so you are set to go.

If you must know... Upper mounting bolt: 42N-m (31lbf-ft) Lower mounting bolt: 42N-m (31lbf-ft) Link plate bolt (frame side): 59N-m (43lbf-ft) Link plate bolt (lower side): 42N-m (31lbf-ft) They don't need locktite since they are "locking nuts".

I think you were not paying too much attention to my rear end as you should. :wink: I have both the tail light and the signals LED. I presume you mean the signals. I bought them from buymoto.com. I think it was made by Shock Racing. I'll check it out and update the post.

Do a search "HID" on ebay. You'll see tons of them. McCulloch known to be a "better" made than many others (German make). I bought mine (dual HID) from this guy. It was $290. Also, I had 100W on both beams for along time wiht no problem. As long as bulbs are seated properly and tight, it should not get hot.

All you need is a long extension arm for the socket you use to make it really really tight. No no... you tighten untill you hear a loud "pop" sound. Every time after you come back from gym or everytime you would like to do an engine rebuilt. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: I wouldn't be too comfortable with a solid support resting on the chain guard not allowing any room for chain to bounce as the speed changes.

Check to see if there are any kinked links. Also, try to pull the chain like trying to take it off from the rear sprocket backwards. There should be very little play.

I've replaced mine with the X-11 about 10K miles ago. I had the annoying noise came back in about 4-5K after the new tensioner. Tech who dynoed my bike recently commented on it as well so I decided to explore a bit more. I took it apart, removed the outer shaft (the part sticks out pushing the chain guard) which threads on to the inner shaft. Before inserting the outer shaft, I rotated the inner shaft two turns which gave the spring pretty good pretension. Then, placed the outer shaft on the thread and continue to rotate with the little tool till the end. This created an extra force on the inner shaft wanting to rotate back pushing the outer shaft with a greater force. The good thing is it works! It is as quite as it was when it was rolled out the dealer's floor.

What is the "optimum" air/fuel ratio for the bird if there is such a thing? I had mine remapped recently. Tech pulled it down to 13 from roughly 14 stating that 13 is the "best suggested". Max hp now is 133.55 @10,000rpm up from 130 according to his dyno. Previous one was 147 peak. Max torque is now 77 @7500rpm up from 74. There were two dips at 5300 and 8200 rpms in the old map.

Yes, but be cautious of: Oil Level: Left over oil on the old springs messing with the oil level in the forks The only oil left is a fraction of a tea spoon which still can be drained if you really want to. Also, you need to modify how you measure the air gap on top. I've just posted how I did mine without taking the forks off the bike here.

I opted for forks on the bike spring and oil replacement. There are some dissagrements on how it should be done (on or off the bike) so I choose the one which is easier to do but can be done as good. The only oil left inside the forks is a fraction of a tea spoon which still can be drained if you really want to. Here is how I did it: - You need to remove the wheel to have access to drain plugs at the bottom which are not visible before you pull the axle out. Drain plugs are tight so you need to muscle them (red locktite). I did this first before loosining the fork caps. Also used the front wheel axle shaft as leverege to prevent forks rotating. You need an allen wrench (it was 7mm on my bike) with an extension to pull it hard. Just untighten but do not remove it yet. - Then remove the top fork cap (22mm). It turns together with the damping rod attached to it. Once it is out you can pull out alltogher but first loosen the locknut right below it (14mm). - Pull the spring spacer tube and using a wire hanger to catch spring and the washer like spacer. - The springs I've got are slightly longer than the stock ones. The only oil left is a fraction of a tea spoon which still can be drained if you really want to. Few things to consider: - You need to remove the wheel to have access to drain plugs at the bottom which are not visible before you pull the axle out. Drain plugs are tight so you need to muscle them (red locktite). I did this first before loosining the fork caps. Also used the front wheel axle shaft as leverege to prevent forks rotating. You need an allen wrench (it was 7mm on my bike) with an extension to pull it hard. Just untighten but do not remove it yet. - Then remove the top fork cap (22mm). It turns together with the damping rod attached to it. Once it is out you can pull out alltogher but first loosen the locknut right below it (14mm). - Pull the spring spacer tube and using a wire hanger to catch spring and the thinner washer like spacer. - Now, you can take the bottom drain plug off. Place a cut to half milk jug or something underneath. Loop a zip tie under the lock nut to easily pull the damping rod back out. Your fingers won't reach it to be able to grab. Pump the rod few times to get the oil out. Once satisfied, you can pull the whole thing out now. It will still be dripping. - Pump the damper as many times it takes (both holding up and down) to drain all the oil. - At this point you can get to the last drop of oil left behind the drain plug (since the forks are angled there will be a tiny pool of oil left there). You can attach a lint free shop towel to a long wire clothes hanger and soak it if you like. - Place the drained, wiped cleaned assembly back into the fork tube. To make sure that it is fully seated, a helper can hold the drain plug back in place. Once the damper assembly hits the drain plug you know you are at the right place. Locktite the plug and tighten it. - Fully compress the forks all the way up. I lifted the front as much as I can with a jack under the engine and placed a block to prevent wheel coming down as I lowered the bike. Also, used tiedown straps to compress even more. - Time for oil... At first, it may seem that you cannot accurately measure the oil level by distance you leave at top (air gap) because the forks are tilted backward. Here is what I did; measure the level from front of the tube and back side of the tube. Front side will measure more. Divide the difference of the two mesurements by two. In my case, I found the difference was about ~14mm so my correction value was ~7mm. If you are measuring from the back side (closer to the gas tank), substract this number (7 for example) from the level you want to achive. For example, if you want 142mm air gap at top, fill the fork tube till you measure 142 - 7 = 135mm. This will be equivalent to 142mm as the forks were standing vertical when it is off the bike. Don't forget to pump the damper few times to make sure that the oil is inside the piston as well. This is an example of 100mm air gap for demonstration purposes only: - Once satisfied with oil level, drop the springs and spacers. OEM spring has one end smaller than the other. Smaller end goes in first. I used the same hanger hook to slide them in. - Screw the lock nut all the way down then the fork cap. Now tighten the lock nut. - Decompress the forks by lowering the wheel to its own but OFF the ground and screw the fork caps. - Torque everthing to specs.

If you go by the Honda "book" you need to leave 142mm air gap at the top when the fork is fully compressed, spring and spacers are out. It should be less than a quart total in between both forks. You need to pump the damper up and dwon till no air comes out. You can a tie a long zip-tie under the lock nut at the end of the damper rod to pull it back out and use another tool such as an extesion arm from a socket set to push it all the way back in.

I've got the Wilbers 641 with remote preload and height adjuster. Wilbers is about 5mm (7/32") longer than the stock. The remote reservoir hose is pointing to the left so I had to install it to the left side of the bike. Dpending on the year of the bike, I assume you get it directed to the proper side. On my bike, there is the rectifier mounted right behind the rear brake hydrolic reservoir so there is no room under the tail piece. I put the bike on the center stand and supported the rear tire just to push the swing arm up barely by jamming an inch thick wooden block. I didn't remove the tank but lifted it up supporting with the axle tool from the tool kit to get better light to the upper mount location. The right hand side of the upper mount nut is size 17mm and tucked in between the coolant water reservoir. You cannot see the bolt but it goes through the rubber mount which supports the coolant reservoir. It is pretty long. Left side is size 14mm. I used an articulated joint from the socket set so there was not a problem unbolting it. I doubt I could undo this bolt with a wrench. The socket set with the articulating joint adapter slides in between rigth behind the frame and the lower part of the subframe. It is a long bolt so be patient while holding the nut on the other side with the 17mm wrench. Once I pluued the bolt out, I pushed it back in to hold the shock in place. Then, I untightened the lower end of the shock and other two bolts holding the triangular shock link plates which connects the link to the shock. I marked the orientation of the pieces. It may look like a perfect traingle but it is not. I left the link in place swinging freely downward. Shock slid down with ease. Used the opportunity to clean and repack the bearings by pushing the pivot collars out. Cleaned the plates and the swing arm as good as they ever been cleaned. Slipped the new shock from the top of the swingarm downward. It took a little rotating and jiggling but it goes through easily. Attached the top mounting bolt first, then the top/rear bolt for the plates then the shock lower mounting bolt. The lower holes and the link didn't match because the suspension is longer. Once I took the wooden block under the tire, it was pretty much alligned. By lifting the tire a tad bit helped to push the bolt through. I tighthened everything up. The line for the remote reservoir/compression adjuster part is at a proper length but not at the correct angle if you want to have access to the comp. adjusters from the opening where the llift handle is located. Adjustment screws face upward and slightly outward in an unstrained/twisted state. The best place I found to locate it is to tie it up to the upper rail at the subframe positioned around the helmet hanging hook. I could rotate the line by holding the collar before the banjo bolt and twisting it but didn't want to mass with it. You CANNOT undo the the banjo bolts form either end since the oil is under pressure (called Klauss of WilbersUSA to ask). Since I didn't want to mass with the line, I was left out with only ioption which allows access to the adjustment screws under the seat. I routed the line under the left passenger peg holder but first seperated the two plugs under that plastic protective sleeve. The line followed a natural path resting right under the subframe rail. I used two clamps came with the package to attach the reservoir onto the top part of the subframe. I split open a 3/8" clear plastic tube and placed between the the reservoir and the frame rail for a non-sliding soft support since I couldn't use the rubber feet they supplied. THey are to attach to a round surface such as the grab rail. Cut one of them to get two triangular pieces to wedge them inside the clamps on top of the reservoir to prevent the clamps twisting the reservoir upwards as it is tighthened. It required twisting the reservoir inwards to allign the adjustment screws closer to the frame. I found the best location is when adjusting screws in front of the helmet hook. This is how it looks from under the seat. The remote preload adjuster took a bit longer. Suggested location is the passenger foot peg sharing the mounting location with the exhaust but it would interfere with the GIVI wingrack. Wingrack mounts inside the peg and also the arm supporting the wings have curvature towards to tire so there is no room for the preload adjuster. The line is long enough fo rthat location but not long enough to rotate it around to place the knob facing forward. After thinkering a bit, it seemed like the best location was sharing the rear brake line clamp attachment locations. The traingular piece comes with the kit was not wide enough at the bottom to drill two holes and use as is so I fabricated one. Since I had to do it by hand, I've got a rather thin piece of aluminum sheet, cut one and shaped it then I cut another one and shaped it to match the first piece. It required to replace the bolts with the longer ones. I already had the Pyramid hugger under the clamps so adding another 3/8" was too much. I used two stainless stell M6x1.0 20mm bolts replacing the old ones. I laso bent the holder follwing the contour of the clamps so teh adjuster hangs right over the swingarm instead of sticking out towards the exhaust. To take care of the extra length of the line, I made a loop by twisting teh adjuster once making the line freely hanging next to the battery case. I may add more pictures or other notes as I recall some other details. Free sag (R1-R2) used to be 17mm now 11mm. Ride height/dynamic sag (R1-R3) used to be 50mm now 38mm. I don't quite understand the recommended "it should be between 10-15% of the maximum suspension travel" statement. Ohlins site recommends 10 < R1-R2 < 20 and 35 < R1-R3 < 50. Based on this my factory default setting falls near the lower limit for road setting. Now, all I need is a voluenteer who would test ride my bike to fine tune it.

Front to back only or cross rotating? :wink:

If the rack is properly positioned and attached with correct spacers and washers, the fairing plastic should not come under any pressure. For the top case mount only harware, I had to get spacers from harware store along with longer bolts to make it work better so the arms would not rub against the fairing. Original button shape fairing bolts have a collar which takes the pressure off the plastic but not the hardware comes with the GIVI sets. I have had four sets of various GIVI mountings so far and everytime I had to get my own harware from ACE Hardware (I sell the mounting kit with the bike but keep the luggage).

PM Nik. He is an expert on torquing things such as oil drain plug and such. Just be prepared to replace the subframe and footpegs. :twisted: Just make them thight enough that makes you feel they are safe and sound. Ride for a little while and check and them again. I never had any of th ebolts came loose or broken with neithe rwith the wingrack nor the top case mount which I routinly swap back and forth.

Ask Randy. He would know. When he cannot find his keys for the disc lock, he takes them off and puts another set in a hurry...

If you have a caliper, you should be able to measure the diameter of the threads without taking them out but just removing the dust caps off. There is enough room to stick the calipers in between there.

This is the only iridium comes up there http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=960&ptset=A How do you know this is the correct one?

You've got to be kidding... Just paid $11/each with the Spiegler group buy.

You mean TWO (2) different sizes? (4+1) SB7100S (first kind) (2) SB8125LL (the second kind) So, they shipped it right based on what they knew of, five of the smaller ones and two larger ones. Apparently then, it has changed sometime from 2000 to 2002. Mine all are definetly M8x1.25 which is speedbleeder part number SB8125. But since SB8125 is not available in SS, the next one is SB8125L which is about 5mm longer than standard ones.

Somebody got to do work, right?. :wink: Mine (CA, w/O2 sensor, PCIII, BOS slip-ons) was up to 234F once in a stop and no go traffic at Laguna Seca last year. I flushed the radiator and since then never above 220F sitting in the traffic. Normal running temp while moving is about 185-190F depending on the weather. Is there any temp sensor/controller to start the fan at lower temps? Thermostat starts opening at 176-183F and fully opens at 203F according to the book.

Try buymoto.com. They quoted the iridium plugs for my bike [iMR9a-9H (NGK)] for $11.99/each. Others I found were around $18-22/each. HKelite45 :wink: