XXBIRD

Mine had a hard time turning at the first stop so I kept it at higher rpms for the rest. It was going to be on of those "ohh... shit" moments. My original battery lasted less then a year without "tendering". Replacement is going strong for over three years now but once a month I hook up my Optimate. Also, my bike maintains 14.8V @5000rpm.

Only in small increments and one at a time while taking notes on what you did and the ride observations, right?

Clutch line clamp bolt on the left side of the main head. My first relay got busted though during the ride on the way back from SEXXT (non-stop rain). Second time around, I opened it up and sealed with silicone pretty good. We'll see how long it would last.

One in between the forks in front using the OEM location the other one inside the lower cowling, partially in front of the radiators using the bolt which secures the oil cooler to the radiator.

Now I know what happened to mine which was on the way from Germany but once it got there, "they didn't know what happened to it". :icon_think: I wasn't going to wait for another shipment so I ended up getting the Airblade from somewhere else. Although, they emailed me when it became available again. Glad your situation is sorted out. It would have been much better if you didn't have to twist arms.

I believe GIVI system is a top notch luggage option for bikes. You choose your combination of cases, mounting rack system and get the appropriate hardware for your bike. In order to use a single key for all cases, they need to be same style (I'm sure their web site tells you which ones work together). I have an older 52 which I use most of the time with a top rack. I also have a wingrack if I needed to attach the other two cases too (46). Two 46s are plenty enough for as his and hers and the top case to throw in all the other stuff in like in a trunk or keep it empty to place a pair of helmets, gloves at places where you don't want to carry your helmets with you. When I mounted my top rack, I used spacers to locate the bars away from the plastic so it also serves as a protector for if I were to use the soft panniers (Oxford). This is the picture I could find somehow shows how far they are mounted form the plastic. [attachmentid=1736]

Make sure to take it back and the installer to buy you a new set of wavey rotors. Glad it didn't turn out something not so good.

Dale, if you get to check a rider named Davide Comoletti from San Diego on an ST1100, give him a flick on the head on my behalf.

Duriing the last trip, my GPS and ODO both showed 1879 miles home to home all the while speed was off about 8-9% between the two.

Everyone who squeezed mine liked it. The best part I like is you can adjust easily when you change your gloves or even while riding. I cannot tell why but I found myself changing a few times so far during the ride.

Your bag's straps are cupped. Neat idea but I wouldn't have the balls to drill the bags. If you use a cheap duffel bag with the correct dimensions, it would serve the same purpose, besides, you could leave the cases on the bike and just take the bag out.

I was referring to the "wilbers" link above.

A) One usually comes before three. 1) Read Mike's comments above. I change my fork oil annually, and there's some nasty shit in there even after that short interval. 3) For the trouble of removing four bolts and loosening six more, I'll take the ease of servicing them off the bike. Like most short cuts, it's probably more frustrating working around the body work, dribbling fork oil all over the place, having the screen, tank and fairing in the way when pulling the caps, blah, blah, blah. I honestly believe it's ultimately less work to pull them of and slap 'em in a soft vice, but that's just me. Only if you would also share what's in between one and three, I didn't have to wonder any longer... What you are saying is not disputable. The way you and many others do is definetly a more through job without adding too much of a hassle. On the other hand, I don't get the argument of fork oil can NOT be changed without taking the forks off approach and trying to crucify who do service their forks mounted on the bike besides declaring them stupid and inept and know shit. There is more than one way skinnig a cat. By the way, you said there is no way you know of accuratley measuring the oil level, I furnished the answer. I have yet to see you saying "it's a good idea or bad idea". What do you think? Can the oil level be set accuratley while the forks mounted on the bike? (That's item two in between one and three.)

If you're feeling all spunky, there's still two points in my original post you failed to address. 3) First because it's easy; you don' thave to remove the wheel becasue it also requires to unbolt the caliper. To undo the drain bolt, just pull the shaft out. 1) Oil filter catches the "debris" resulting from the high rpm, high temp engine but it is unlikely for forks to create such temperatures and cycles to even come near the working conditions an engine part.

I did once but you missed it. Take two measurements; one from the very rear of the fork tube and one from the front, substract the rear (smaller number) from the front (larger number) and divide it by two (2). Now you have the number which is the half of the height you measure from the rear due to the rake angle of the fork. Substract that number from the measurement on the rear and you have the height as you have the forks are standing up straight. Simple, eh? Nexxt...? Are you still not smiling fucko?

It is the same thing but different labeling. In US octane rating is the average of "research octane number" and "motor octane number" (R+M)/2. US 87 woud be equivalent to 91 elsewhere. If this is your reasoning, think about all the money you could have saved... Higher octane ratings correlate to higher activation energies. Activation energy is the amount of energy necessary to start a chemical reaction. Since higher octane fuels have higher activation energies, it is less likely that a given compression will cause knocking. Although note that it is the absolute pressure (compression) in the combustion chamber which is important - not the compression ratio. The compression ratio only governs the maximum compression that can be achieved. If the combustion chamber is designed to "not to detenota early", you are not gaining anything but making your wallet lighter by using higher octane.

+1 I thought everyone did this. :icon_think: Except me I guess... Well kept secret, uh?

But you are changing the oil pan not only changing oil.

Just drain them from the bottom. Do you take the oil pan off to change the engine oil?

It's the other way around. You would want as much as possible laminar flow for less drag. But maybe KungFuforMTV has redefine the physics of fluid mechanics too. I kinda think maybe he drinks Absenthe.

On a "tweaked" dyno...

I sugest you to take it apart and give a couple of turns winding on the spring to increase the force the spring exerts on the adjuster pin. I've installed on of the earlier X11 adjusters on mine but had to take it out and do what I said above. Since then, it is pretty silent even to the ears of anal retentives.

I've ordered an Airblade double-buble on the phone. Their prices are $10 more than it used to be compared to six months ago. She checked the ebay listing to see if she could get the cheaper one without me asking. I asked if they could expedite the shipping so they did.

I called them up to check if they had the MRA Varios Sport Touring Screen in stock. They didn't have one but they were expecting a shipment so they told me to check back in few days so did I. When I called them they were still unpacking the stuff. But I couldn't have one because they were all spoken for... Don't know why they didn't tell me that at the first place.

You don't need to send your helmet. The straps are removable except Astral-X and Condor.