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Posts posted by XXBIRD
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A post from last year mentions something like that...
And, yes it does work.
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Oops.... I should have said indicator not micrometer. Yes, I did use an indicator, mounting it on the bottom of the forks secured with zip ties.
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I checked the run-off with a dial micrometer but of course it also shows if the bearings are not good. I'll check bearings and service the calipers to see if it improves before I change the discs. 15/1000 I measured is outside the range but not that much. I've already got a pair of discs so they may go up for sale then.
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What would be the acceptable run-off for the front discs (straightness)? One side has 0.015" the other 0.010" on mine. When I brake I get vibration from the front so I've checked to see what it is like.
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put it in reverse make sure area behind is clear get up some speed slam the brakes
Used to be necessary with drum brakes to adjust the shoes into the drum but not for bedding the pads. I don't think it is relevant anymore.
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If you already have the top plate and plan to keep the rack mounted on the bike, install it anway unless you have a reason not to. It would not be necessary to have the top plate I am thinking but it is convenient to have the top plate so you can have a single case if needed.
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I use Honda Polish but make sure they are completely cooled down. WD-40 to remove the chain oil too.
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The waterproof waterproof standard is IPX7 or 8....something like that. Most of the Garmins meet the standard.
Yes, some Garmins meet the IPX7 but if you read the fine print you'd know it is only when ther eis no cables attached to the unit and rubber plugs are in as I said above.
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Is it possible that you may be tightening the tool so much to make the rivet at the pin resulting plate to damage the o-ring?
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They want to change the fuel pump, pressure regulator, fuel regulator, two oil changes, clean injectors, clean exhaust, change plugs...etc..
Basically, they don't know what the fuck they are bullshiting about. Do us a favor and ask them what "cleaning exhaust" entitles. It would be a great service to the community here in case we were missing something.
If you have a choice not to use them, make sure you do NOT spend a dime at that scumnest and also make sure that you stop by at the manager's office to let him/her know about it and why.
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Not my word but the guy who installed my Dish who had an MSc degree in computer engineering told me that most of the time amplifiers reslut more problems than they would solve especially when you have data transmission as well. His suggestion was using a top quality splitter. Me knows nothing about it, just relaying his BS talk if it is indeed a BS.
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As far as I know the Garmin Quest is still the only "Water Proof" unit on the market.
There is lots of waterproofs out there including Garmin ones. One thing you have to pay attention though is how they describe water proofness. Standards they use is that when there is no cables attached to unit and all the rubber plugs attached. Mine is not only waterproof but it even floats if it were to be dropped into water.
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But enough about the navigation, what I really like is the MP3 player and satelite radio, sure makes those long trips fly by.
That's what the newest Garmins do but not as good as it should I be, I gather from various GPS forums.
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I have mine mounted that way and the suction have let go. I use velcro on the bottom of the detector and top of the instrument panel as a secondary attachment. That works for me long enough when the suction cups let go.
Same here. Velcro support but still dropped it once thanks to "smooth" NJ/NY roads. It stayed hanging by the speaker and power cord luckily.
Hey Marc the stranger... busy bee? :icon_wave:
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It was designed for military so it must be better than good.
If this is your reasoning, better be it's returnable.
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I have my HIDs for almost four years now. Bulbs lasted so far and even if it was half of that which is not, that would be less than $50/year per bulb. I am not worrying about it yet.
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I'm saying nothing but just referring...
I have never understood why riders seem so pre-occupied with what is simply normal tire wear. Tire scalloping is a normal consequence of tire use. This is particularly true for big, heavy sport-touring rigs like the Blackbird.
All tires eventually scallop, *all* tires. It's just that some tread patterns make for pronounced scalloping, often relatively early in the tire's life. Two examples of this would be the front tires of the Dunlop 220 and the Bridgestone BT-020. Both are excellent tires - indeed, the dry grip of the D220 is phenominal - but both display significant scalloping fairly early in their treadlife.
Other tread patterns do not lend themselves to such severe scalloping. A couple examples of this would be the Pilot Road and the Avons, though again, as you reach the end of it's service life, you'll see scalloping in these tires, too.
Now, all the above having been said.... this is a completely pointless thread, in that tire wear is *extremely* specific to a rider, his riding style, and riding environment. We can't look at a picture of a used, worn out tire and draw a conclusion that the tire brand as shit. It may, in fact, be a crap tire for one person's style/environment, but it might also be a phenominal tire for someone else who rides differently and/or rides in completely different riding conditions.
Tire threads are very similar to oil threads, chain lube threads, etc, etc. There is no "one best - fits all" of any of these.
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When I am on the brakes hard (front) I get a strong shake from the front. Could it be the rotors not straight? I need new pads too, both front and rear. Any suggestions for the pads?
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Paypaled. As the site gets more traffic, I am sure the related headaches are getting bigger too. Thanks to all keeping it up and running.
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I think it is Bob who bought them yesterday.
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Looks like he paid almost $100 less than you paid, you ebay junkee.
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DualStar has an "optional" shrink wrap like insulating piece for the left side. With that piece, both sides get plenty hot enough. I rarely used the high setting. It maybe necessary to use a RHS grip to fit on the LHS as well to accomadate the extra thickness. See my pictures and install steps if you care to take a look at it.
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Yes.
frame plugs
in The Garage
Posted
PM kiwimack.