pug

I just noticed.... A Bird special with a Busa fairing.... That's gross

CAPPEL do you have the link for the Japanese company that supplies this kit? I had it in my favorites but somehow I lost it.

You could remove your LHS rear wheel spacer so it would go around right hand turns forever

Generally agree, BUT when you change ride height you might affect F to R weight (mass) distribution and then this will affect your sag.

Carbon build up on the valve seats maybe due to bad gas or rich mixture (or both)? Any visible wear on the camshafts (I know this is too Kawasaki)

Update Yesterday I tested again the orifinal motor and ...it was working. I guess there was remaining humidity inside the motor that was causing short-circuit. Since the inner bearing had signs of wear on O.D and it was noisy I replaced both bearings (types 607Z and 607S small differences in the letter codes if you shop SKF). [attachmentid=488] Also cleaned the inners with appropriate sprays and sealed the casing with some silicone. As good as new (for the time being)

I've got the used fan but unfortunately is not exactly the same. The motor is different (a bit smaller physically with different bolts), the bracket is different and finally the socket is diferrent. The fan is same design except the centre. Perhaps with little work I can fit it but I think I will return it and buy a new one. I did the manual's pg.19-25 test (bridging the relay) and the used fan works ok, so the harness is ok. Also my battery's voltage was 12.2 volts so I 'll have to recharge a bit. Finally I connected the old fan straight to the battery and it was making bad noise (like a relay but it was the fan's motor) and didn't work. Does anybody know which YM Blackbird this fan is for (in the top right)? [attachmentid=460] Sockets, in the right the one that is on my Bird.. [attachmentid=461] And the original fan motor dismantled... [attachmentid=462]

Cost of new fan motor 143 euros (with 15% discount), a complete cooling fan from the breakers about 60. If the used is in good con i"ll hit it.

Not this time, this was made in the parking lot at work but I don't know who did it (and that's why I am not behind bars ). I used to park the bird with the mirrors folded, so probably somebody hit the mirror..... Not directly, but you never can be sure

One thing I forgot to mention, is that since I had to install my repaired nose fairing (more of that here in Greek but you'll get the idea from the pictures), yesterday I washed and then silicone-sprayed the bird while it was naked. I think that the silicon spray was a bad idea (although I didn't spray directly to the radiator)

Today, returning from a ride I had to filter through traffic to get home. At some point, I looked the temp and it was reading 109 to 112 (that's Celsius) which is very high - only in hot summer days I've seen for a moment 105-107. Anyway I managed to keep the temperature down to 105 and to return home. In the midweek when I had the bird in the shop for valve check, I asked them also to replace the coolant with some Motul Motocool. I didn't checked coolant capacity, but gave to mechanic 2lt. When I got home I checked the manual and cool. capac. is 3.9lt so I thought that there is not enough. The fan also didn't work. The expansion bottle was empty so I put about 1lt of coollant. The fan started working BUT was spinning very slowly and eratically, i.e. like it is connected to a very small starter-it doesn't spin continiously. Moreover, I checked the fan by hand and it does not rotate freely (as it used to be), it feels like grinding. I disconnected the fan relay and the cooling fan motor connector and sprayed some electric contact lube (or whatever). I've read the manual pages 19-24 to 19-26, but didn't do any tests because I don't have a polymeter or test wires right now (I'll have tommorow). However since the fan is rotating, I don't think I have to check continuity or the relay. Maybe the only usefull test is the one in the bottom of page 19-25 with the jumper wire (so I don't have to warm up the engine to check the fan). Something I forgot to mention is that when I bought the bike, the previous owner had a small crash (car hit him from the LH side), and I foundthat the fan was touching the radiator, so I moved a little back. So my diagnosis is that I need a new fan (which is about 140$ at Ron Ayers, which means double over here). Any suggestions?

It changes injection time (unit is m(illi)s) by altering the engine ECU signal (earth) to the injectors.PC3 itself doe not uses any units, it ads or subtracts some percentage of injection time. This is done according to throttle openinig (TPS potentiometer signal) and engine revs. You need a dynamometer and a gas analyzer to tune properly an engine. just so you know, there are downloadable maps for the bird from pwr cmmander site, but only for the few cans they have tested. i put a homemade 4-1 scorpion on my bike ( stock headers thermo coated in and out) witha single pipe from the dual scorpion setup. i also put an 02 sensor in the header and an air/fuel ration monitor on the steering head so i can see it in real time. the map for dual scorpions wasn't even close. the 4into 1 accelerates the gases much faster and it was way lean at low rpms. i finally have it close, but since i am turboing the bike next week, i'll have to start all over. i mount my laptop on my gastank and go riding while watching my a/f monitor and make adjustments as i go, in real time. my very own rolling dyno. it's the only way to get the throttle position sensor settings correct. and yes, it does get busy sometimes juggling all the imputs from traffic, road, a/f , sending maps and saving maps. sure is fun though. if i don't kill myself, i'll eventually get it all worked out. Find a dyno, save your life :icon_wave:

Not by me (I was working-did not have time). Mileage is 26500 kms. None needed adjustment, all were in the middle of specs, and with 0.01 differences. I knew it wasn't needed, just for a piece of mind

It changes injection time (unit is m(illi)s) by altering the engine ECU signal (earth) to the injectors.PC3 itself doe not uses any units, it ads or subtracts some percentage of injection time. This is done according to throttle openinig (TPS potentiometer signal) and engine revs. You need a dynamometer and a gas analyzer to tune properly an engine.

Do they handle anything like the 205's or stones? D 205s (now D 220s) only good point is that they make loud noise when you spin them.

I have tried the OEM Dunlop D205, Bridgestones 012 and 014 and Pilot Powers. P Powers have by far the best wear characteristics and I think you should do easily 5000.

You do know that the XX has a hydraulic clutch and as such uses a line with banjo fittings :icon_duh: NBL Better take some extra banjo fittings. Just in case too. Or some water? :icon_wall: :icon_wall:

Let me give you a tip Pinlock The BEST riding gear accessory for all year round riders. Check European site for details. Only since county's initial post on this thread...... Bugger me..... All this time I thought that the clutch cable was water cooled

Any luck whith the valving specs Arctic?

As you can see, I have installed almost all the available springs (but Wilbers) for the XX. Normally, the tappered end (the one with the smaaler overall diameter) should go down and I suspect this has to whith the spring seating on the cartridge. Regarding cutting the spacers, this is what I am going to do with my current setup (ZZR springs), but I suggest (since the difference in spring length is not that great) that first to ride it for 200 miles as it is and then decide what to do. Do not forget that this is an equation which also involves rear spring rate and preload, rear shimming and position of the forks on the tripple clamps, so one step at a time. Good luck :icon_wave:

First of all, turn your steering at left full lock. Then upload a photo of your setup. :icon_think:

Obby, now it's a good opportunity to change fork oil as well. The only tricky part is to untighten the fork caps (with the bike sitting on one wheel and car jack). Oh,...... and your bicycles tires are CUPPED

Obby this what I use to remove the front end. You need an old car spare wheel in small size. The one I use is a 175/14. Since the bike sits on the tire with its bellypan and headers (and in this photo in the hub cup) is safe for the plastics. [attachmentid=348] In this photo my XX is not yet shimmed at the rear. If yours is, there is not enough room to slide all the wheel underneath, but still works. Do not forget to remove the front fender and the calipers (and don't let tem hanging from their lines - check photo again). If you cannot remove the bearings (sometimes a bitch), a half decent auto garage should do it easily. Good luck :icon_thumbsup:

Just perusing my service manual here, says you gotta use all 6 to do it properly. And you need to remove the seat cowl if you have to top up rear caliper's brake fluid. Also you need an assistant because at on point you have to work the brake pedal while you do the front left bleeder. Never met somebody that can stretch that match

Why don't you e-mail your VIN number to Honda Europe. They should be able to tell you if it is. No restricted official imports in Greece (apart from catalytic converter). Never heard for a restricted parallel import Bird as well but it is possible if it comes from Germany or France. Greece is different country than Cyprus. Cyprus just joined EU so now they have to conform with EU regulations.