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Is it safe to use the cutter on slicks when it rains? :icon_silenced:

So, now lets talk about linear powerband and suspension setup. :icon_duh: :icon_duh:

Nothing more than to stick whith your vehicle's manufcturer inflation pressures.

Yeah right, so a clogged filter flows better than a clean one. Therefore, you don't need a high flow filter (like K&N), so stick whith the OEM. Tell that to a dirt biker :icon_duh: Because of this marketing bullshit of K&N i tend to use stock filters. The airbox acts as an air reservoir for the engine. If you competely remove the air filter, it is very likely that turbulent flow might be experienced. It occur to me, when I had my car on the dyno and I run it with the filter removed from the air box (well it 1 or 2% less hp contrary to the common belief that it would run better). But then again car air boxes are somewhat generic and not specifically designed and tuned as in fast bikes (not to mention the absence of ram air). My suggestion is to clean it when it gets black (not all the filter but where the air enters it). If you are not to anal, just wait until the engine side gets darker. There is not really a mileage limit because of the climatological and pollution differences between areas, but after the first couple of times you will know (or feel) when.

Just use ester based oils. e.g. Motul 300V , Silkolene Pro4 (which i didn't like at all) or the Amsoil you were already using.

Never seen a car tyre with maximum NOMINAL pressure of only 32 psi. Comon guys, tell me that this topic isn't for real. :icon_think:

Just don't do it. I had Powers in both ends and I renewed them with Diablos... Which are hot air balloons. Apart from being slower tires (once into the turn) they have the habbit to over inflate , i.e. overheat. I was in vacation at Crete island. After a couple of days I noticed that after few miles (10-15) in the motorway with medium speeds - about 80 to 90 mph- (and a pillion) the rear of the bike was riding higher and also the ride was harsh. Next morning I checked that pressures were ok (42psi) and I left. After 15 miles I stopped to check the pressures. Front was about 45 BUT rear was 49 to 50 psi. i've never done the same test whith the Powers but I was never bothered.

What's this, a jet ski type kill switch? :icon_think:

Αctually 45mm of the the forks, 43 mm mounted :icon_duh:

Thanks to Helvet, I am currently run the one in the middle and I am more than satisfied. It has hi-low comp aswell as rebound and ride height adjustment, and probably soon will have remote preload.

But if at the end you have to gap them, you have to use round wire gap gauge. More here.

Exactly what I thought.. Now the dilemma: do you let it idle or do you blip the throttle to start earlier oil circulation and increase oil pressure? Personally I follow the middle road: I 'm letting it idle for 10-20 secs and then and then I increase slowly engine speed to 2-2.5k. I know its getting over the top but mine is an '03 (not the fast 02s) so I would do anything for a couple hp's

Mike, you mean that the oil circuit is dry until until the engine fires and there is oil circulation again, right? Before putting the new oil filter, I am pouring fresh oil in it (IIRC it takes about 200ml). What do you think about that, does it helps?

Very nice write up but I think you forgot to mention that you need a second person to work the rear brake pedal when you bleed the left front caliper center bleed valve as well as when you bleed the front left m/cylinder from the rear caliper.

If I remember correctly, you fit them on top of the spacer tube and at the bottom? Or is it just at the bottom of the spacer tube above the spring? I think you mean the washers that fit between the spring and the spacer (ok tube).

Why would you do that since it doesn't start if it is in gear? :icon_think: Moreover to the subject, I measured the current draw and for the first 30 seconds (more or less HID warm up time) is about 10 amps, then goes down to 4. I think WC is the best. For those who are looking into Euro spec switchgear, keep in mind that from 2003 (and maybe 2002) there is not lights-off switch (Euro legislation).

Brian if you are interested, I have a fairing bracket that it was on the bird when I bought it (lightly crashed). It is a bit bent, but you can't tell whith the eye. The only indication was that in one part the paint was cracked and the fairing panels were not sitting perfect. If you need it I am giving it to you free if you take care of the shipping costs. The new one (in Greece) cost me about 120€. Maybe shipping from here is cheaper thatn US (although parts are far cheaper there).

an FI bird should compensate for that should it? Up to a point, surely is better than carbs but you still loose power because there is less air available.

+1000 or with meditation? brake fluid get out of the bottle and get into the brake line brake fluid get out of the bottle and get into the brake line brake fluid get out of the bottle and get into the brake line If it doesn't work, then start thinking loud

Arctic my guess is that if you go for the PC3 - slipons, you 'll get a more linear powerband. Do not forget that they have to be set-up on a dyno whith a gas analyzer. I run stock euro gearing (17-44) and at low revs I have more torque than my friend's stock 2004 busa

I think 1 3/8'' (about 3 cm) is ok.

For sure it does but you need scales to know before and after.

And the green-red marks on the LHS of the swing-arm (if you still have them) about chain wear are not relevant anymore. Just don't tell her (I didn't)

+1, my guess is that the noise comes from the shock's top mount. Try first to spray some oil (whith a straw attached to the can) and check if the noise goes away for a few days. Of course you'll create a mess but you'll know. I had the same problem with my WP shock and I did that as a temporarily solution. If you have time and a friend to help, ask your friend to compress-uncompress the rear suspension (like what you do to check rear free sag) and try to put your fingers in the shock mount and try to feel the vibration from the dry bolt. However if it is not that bad, I doubt that you can feel it but it has worked some times in the past. Or you can just remove the bolt clean it and grease it.

Here it is. Magical Racing Thanks Byrdman