Helvet

I am certain this is the older type. I've sold a few of these.....

The best for what? What is important? Price, HP, torque, sound, looks? Nobody can answer this for you..... It depends on your wishlist......

A 3mm spacer ring on top of your shock will make the possible travel longer, and give you more clearance. It will also make the bike turn easier...... Very cheap and usefull mod!

Ohlins arnt adjustable ?? Ohlins are MORE adjustable than the Penski for the 'bird... I assume the Penski is adjustable for compression and rebound like the Ohlins, but the Ohlins also has a remote preload adjuster, so you're not under the thing with a hammer, drift, and spanner every time you want to go on a ride with a passenger... '01 to '03 model here... http://www.indysuperbike.com/customer/prod...6867&page=1 Mike Hyperpro offers the same with a fully progressive spring (Ohlins has a two-step linear spring), and it's cheaper too (at least in Holland it is.....).

I have a Scottoiler, and I'm selling it..... No way this thing works.... Either you get to many, or too less oil on the chain. You have to check regularly if you have oil left, and it comes of the chain a lot easier than normal chain-wax..... The whole back-end of the bike was covered in oil after a 3000 mile trip

After 2 Pilot Roads on the front, and 4 on the rear, I just recently switched to Pilot Power on the front. I can''t tell you how long it will run (and I don't really care either), but I really like it. The MPR front is very stable. It will allow me to run corners whilst standing fully upright on the footpegs. It's also very predictable in it's behaviour. Last week I had a holiday planned in the Dolomites (mountains connected to the Alps in Northern-Italy). We were planning some fast riding there with 12 Blackbirds. Therefore I chose to mount a MPP, replacing the almost new MPR. The bike was much easier to steer, and especcially flipping it over in hairpins. Stability is a little less, but still very OK. The bike now feels 20% lighter in short turns! Depending on how it will last in time, I'll probably stay with this combo for now.

You mean Gilles Tooling from Germany. I use them too..... http://www.gillestooling.com/en/produkte/as/index.php Great, but expensive!

I don't think that is normal :icon_think: Dynojet must be your hero they are selling them now... No they are not (in Europe....). Dynojet Europe is not convinced the solution they have now is working problems-free. They are still testing here before they will deliver any. And when they will, the price will be sky-high (like $ 500,--). They just gave me a brand-new PC-2 to replace the old and defective one i bought from one of you guys....

If you figure out how to put a PC3 on a 1999 Blackbird you are my hero! It has been tried before, but never succeeded. That is why you will not find a map for that anywhere.... A PC2 should work, and there are plenty maps for those.

Go Hyperpro. They have a new 3-D shock, which will be available for the Blackbird shortly. Apart from all great Hyperpro things like a fully progressive spring, this shock is modular. This makes it easy to use the shock on your next bike, by only replacing a few parts of the shock.... www.hyperpro.com

Please remember that the use of the shock in the UK is a lit different from the USA. The have a lot of speed-bumps (is that the correct word?), and they have the salty sea-air..... They also like to use it on holidays with pillion and a lot of luggage.....

It could be the wiring-loom problem of the 1999 and 2000 models. Please check the connector. There must be a posting here somewhere about it....

I can't tell you what causes it, but I can tell you what happens. The EFI-unit is calculating some big problem in the injection. To prevent any damage to the engine, it will run in "safe"mode untill you disengage the contact. After that, everything is reset, and you can try again. In some cases the bike will stay in safe-mode untill you take the battery out for a few seconds. Then it will be reset..... How to prevent it, I don't know..... Maybe with the new PC3 they are developing for the 1999 and 2000 models....

I can't tell you what your noise is, but I can tell you the above ain't it. 1. The stator doesn't spin, the flywheel does. 2. Buying a higher output stator will have zero effect on how fast anything spins. You really should resist the urge to give mechanical advice, Frank. 1. I did mean the flywheel, i just got the English tem incorrectly translated. I just mounted a new stator myself... 2. In this case you are (again) correct. The speed is determed by the number of windings on the coil (again not sure about the correct words here). I just remebered Electronics was the worst subject I did in Technical school...

Did you buy an original Honda stator? Or a replacement? I just installed a replacement, and it does the same thing..... That is because it is more powerfull than the original, so it'll spin faster. That is what you will hear. Also in my case the thermal insolation seems to be thinner. This might cause some more noise, but I am not sure....

Same problem here (I think) and more.... Last October I had the complete loom changed. On the way home the bike was fine, and I parked her for the winter. April I started riding again, and it was fine. After a few rides I noticed the PC2 was switching off, or the bike was running in safe-mode (no warning lights). Disconnecting the battery did a reset, and everything OK (untill it happened again and again). Two weeks ago the bike ran worse than ever, and finally seized in the middle of nowhere. Luckaly we were with 60 Blackbirds, so we tried a few things. Nobody had a Voltage checker (how do you say that in English?), so the problem was hard to find... The battery was clearly dead, but still rather new (6 months old). First thought was the rectifier (most common problem, still the original from 1999). We exchanged the battery between 2 Blackbirds, and I could ride home with this. There we changed batteries again. I ordered a new rectiefier, and installed it. Still not enough charging (11Volts at 5.000rpm). Only then I figured out the alternator was fried... So, I changed the alternator, and the charging was fine now. Everything OK, you'd think..... Except, the freaking PC2 is still giving up on me after a while, and I need to reset it.... I would like to order a new one from the USA, but Ron Ayers will not ship to Europe.... Here I have to pay over $ 200,-- more than in the USA for it..... And I am still not sure it is the PC2 that is causing the problem. Anybody got any other ideas? Please help, I am getting mad (and that doesn't happen very often...).

I think you are heading for disappointment.... The feel of the carb-version and the injection-version will never be the same. Some riders who upgrade to the injection are disappointed about the lack of the thrill-factor in the injection-bikes. The later ones are not slower, but because of the mid-range dip in the carb-bikes it feels like these are faster in the 6K to 8K-range.... Only if you will make the Powercommander give your bike a dip in the mid-range you will get the same sensation..... But do you really want to?

Gilles Tooling Vario-Bars. Looks great, can be adjusted in all positions, better comfort! http://www.gillestooling.com/en/produkte/vb/ausleger.php

Wiring loom is not cheaper...... Don't ask how I know this....

Bos-exhausts. Made in Holland, very good quality. One of the best selling exhausts in Europe, but shipping is expensive.... Website: http://www.bos-exhausts.com/

If you have the ECU in the back of the bike, it looks to be simular to the 1999/2000 European models. These take the PC2. These come with 2 large flat multi-connectors (they look like SCART-cables). The PC3 comes with 2 smaller round connectors, and its mounted near the gastank. Maybe this can enlighten it for you? I did not know the USA-models were different in 2001. It looks like you guys just got the leftovers from the European 2000 models. Does the USA 2001 model have the digital dashboard like the European models? Or does it still have the analogue dash like the 1996-2000 models?

You better think again......... If you get a PC3 to work on a 1999 or 2000 model, you should start your own company..... A pc2 will only work on the first Fuel injected models, the 1999 and 2000. A pc3 will only work on the later Fuel injected models, 2001 until 2006 (and maybe even later models, who knows....). You can buy a PC3 with or without USB. Both models will work on the Blackbird. Without will be cheaper....

A PC3 will not fit a 1999/2000 model. The plugs on the harness are all wrong. Also, the one will be placed before the ECU, the other one after the ECU (I forget which one...). In theory Powercommander could make a PC3 for a 1999/2000 model, but since they sell so little they won't bother....

When I was discussing PCIII maps with PC tech support a while back, the guy informed me that US bikes should not use Euro maps. His reason was the Euro gas is very different from US gas and thus the Euro maps would be wrong for US bikes. He didn't go into any farther, so I don't have any more info, but that was good enough for me; I used a US map that seemed close to my particular equipment setup and it works fine. Try calling or emailing to ask for more info. This is correct. The Euro fuels are much better than the stuff you dare to put in the tank. It runs cleaner and had a higher octane (minimum of 95).

They are nylon caps that fit into the two frame holes located on each side of the frame. Here's a set of the left-side frame plugs installed; I scored these from Jaws many years ago: We sell these and the silver ones as well in the merchandise-shop of the Dutch Blackbird Owners Club. Check out: http://bb.superblackbird.info/viewtopic.php?t=20 If you are interested in a group-buy, please let me know.