Mikey

So I'm putting the bike back together. I find this rubber line that T's. One part is snapped onto the carbs, but not into, but onto..so it's just a mount point. The long end looks like it may go out the bottom of the bike. The last end, I don't know where it goes. Is it from the vent line on the gas tank?

I had a 240v run made to my garage (not that hard, since you have it comming into your house anyhow). Then I got a 240v heater (common on construction areas, etc). They retail about 70 bucks. Now it gets so damn hot in my garage, my house is colder and I leave the door open to shed some heat into the house.

Will do. Taking off the carbs originally was a HUGE pain in the ass. I was almost lifting the bike off the ground trying to pull them off the engine smoothly. I finally got them off (smoothly) and found that whoever put them on last had pinched the rubber on installation. I likely had an air leak on one carb. On putting the carbs back on, now that was a pain too. Finally I took some armor-all and sprayed it on my fingers and rubbed in on the inside of the rubber. Then I did the same with the engine side. put it on an angle securing the top first, pushed down and POP...right on. God, love it. So I'm going to lube the cables, clean up my electrical "nest" and re-assemble. We'll see if Pete's right about the cam timing. I free spun the engine so I'm not concerned about interference.

Well, it's been exciting. May have to go into shop afterall. I put my cams back on and the book said to line up the "in" for the intake and the "ex" for the exhaust across the engine cover mating line. Won't happen. It'll either be above, or below. So I put it above (less of a distance than below), turned the engine over by hand and it's not binding. So we'll see what happens (not happy). Well, I suppose it's better than a friend of mine who was doing is on his ST. The cam sprocket broke a tooth and took out the main sprocket on his ST. Pain, not terminal, but a pain. The engine stopped instantly and wouldn't turn over. So we decided to make sure the top end was ok before working our way down. Good thing too, would have been expensive to just ship it off to a shop.

Just keep in mind that after market clutches won't allow for a certain part of the clutch to go back in. It's a smaller metal plate than the others. You'll just have to leave it out. You'll understand when you put it back together and it doesn't fit. Hold on to it, just incase you go back to OEM clutch plates. Also don't go getting drag racing clutch plates thinking they will last longer, race stuff is normally for races, not the street. You'll end up toasting it or having an unhappy start in stop and go traffic.

Hehe, I figured you'd throw that in.

Thanks Eddie...er.. Edward (sorry habbit).. I saw that in the manual and I understand the physics behind it, so I'm all over that. I got do's der shimmy things put in the divit for them. Lubed them prior with molydbnem....stuff. Lubbed up the buckets all over and in they went. Now I'm just needing to pick up two 1.95's from the local shop and I'm all set. I called one place (see messages above) and decided to go where I normally go and the conversation went like this: Me "Did the valves this weekend, I need shims for my XX. Can you order" Them "No need, just drop by we've got a bunch in the basement. Bring your measurement" Me "Cool!"

Yah, well the dealer I called said Them "Uh, no we don't trade, you need to buy new ones. You stack them on top, you don't replace" Me "Uhm...well I took off the cams, and buckets and the ship that popped into my hand is too thick...need a thinner one. Can't go stacking that, as well, I don't think these would stack all that easily" Them "Well, we don't swap, you replace" Me "Uh, well when I get a valve job done at the shop, they give me credit for the other shims" Them "Yah, well....you need to buy new ones"

Well it was 90k kms (56k miles) and it's obviously the first adjustment. I only adjusted the ones that are way outside the range or at the max/min. I left the rest. It was only 4 of 16 so that's not bad. Two were loose, 2 were at the min (tight).

Well, thanks guys. Yah, I'll order a 1.95 then. The measuring device is tricky. If you spin the knob at the end tight enough you can get quite a measurement spread. I'll order 2 x 1.95 tomorrow. :] I'm soo excited. Next fun will be putting the cams back on and have them align properly. The manual shows the side view but they neglect to tell you that there is a huge ass frame member in the way. Nice.

Okee, so I need to go buy 2 x 1.96 shims. Anybody have any they want to mail me? :] Then it should be all set. I've left the ones that are .20 and the low end of spec was .19 so I figured that's fine. If they were within .01 of spec I left them. Mind you this is mm not inches. I have 2 x 1.92's I can trade :] So it seems stock has 1.92 for intake and 2.05 for intake. Neat.

Ok, my exhaust for 3 and 1 are out by a huge amount. they are suppose to be .22mm and they are .267+. So it says I don't have to remove the cam sprockets unless I'm replacing the cam shaft, but it only shows how to remove the cams without the sprockets. Damn.. We'll see what happens.

Yah, might not be worth it. I did notice a lot of crap on the top of the valves when I looked down the intake ...thingy..port? Anyhow its granular. How would I clean that off without taking the valves out. Is there anything I can pour down when the valves are closed to disolve some of that crap?

So far it's been a huge pain in the ass. I've got all valves in tolerance, with just one at the edge and on the tight side. I don't know if it's worth taking the cams out since it is in tolerance.

Tehehe...sorry...tehehe...

Didn't he recover the seat a bunch of times?

If it's your daily ride then I wouldn't put a Turbo on it..just incase. If it's a project bike or a weekender..then go ahead.

The rear brake feels a little squishy right? Don't worry about it. It shouldn't bite the same as the front as JRDXX indicates. It helps control rear wheel lock (by design? Dunno).

I've got 89K on mine and have checked them. Once, last year, didn't need adjustment. Close, but not necessary at the time. This time, yes. I'll do it in a couple weeks.

The small ones will work for the trim around the gauges, and where your panels meet underneath, but won't replace the biggies properly. Rather, this has worked for me :] Bought some when I was at Americade last year.

Highly unlikely there is any issue. Especially since the engine appeared to be warm. I wouldn't think twice. Go punch in the face anyway, it'll make us all feel better. :evil:

I agree that the problem is that it might not start. If you have a completely dead battery, there will be no juice to get the ...er...juice up to the cyclinders. At least with a carbed bike, if you can get spark, you get the pattern going and away you go. I find that if I have a completely flat battery, I can't even push start the bike due to lack of initial spark.

An undertail tends to be more expensive, but is a better looking quality piece of ABS that will contain your whole underside of your seat up to and usually covering the rear shock. This is a nice clean appearance but tends to be in the 2-300 dollar range for a decently fitting one. A fender eliminator kit usually just provides an anchor for your signals, license and maybe your tail light allowing you to cut off the majority of your rear fender. It is not as clean as a look as your whole underseat is as exposed as it was when you had that fender hanging down 8 inches, you just don't have that fender hanging anymore. You still have it up under your wheelwell. These tend to be more resonably priced at perhaps 50-100 bucks for one. Any help?

Remember you can actually test that sensor by placing it in boiling water and testing the resistance before and after boiling (take it out first of course).

Damn, called my wife. She says ..... "No chance in hell". I beleive that means we are tight on money currently :] Hopefully the sales are common.