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HERBXX

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Everything posted by HERBXX

  1. Thanks ! I'm building them mainly cause I building stuff an I'm cheap I built my first set because I thought the wing rack and fitting kit were 2 expensive and ugly. I had a set I made out regular steel, that were to be a prototype for stainless. I used them for 2 or 3 years then one got hammered pretty bad when my bike fell off the work stand , so i'm finally building the stainless ones. I saved my templates from last time so it a little easier this time . These will be little cleaner then the old ones. Since I spend more time with the bags off then on I think the stainless will match better. I also have the stainless tail and seat rack so it all should match when I get done . As long as i dont get bored polishing. Herb
  2. I got bored out in the shop so i though i woul post a couple pics. There is still a lot to do but there is enough done you can get the idea. Im using 304 stainless1/2 inch stainless with 1/16 wall. Used my old mild steel ones and built a sort of jig. If I'm patient they will polish to match the pipes, The third pic is my tubing bendors. Herb clicking on frogs seems to bring up pictures for now :icon_clap: EDIT BY MODERATOR: Pictures too big, changed to a link I changed to thumbnails, if this is not ok please correct mod but they seem to work now
  3. Just orderd one, slick website. If i cant fit on the bird i'll put it on the silverado.
  4. Hi John, would it be possible to get a picture or the mounting position. Are you mounting it to the fairing stay.? I have a hid ballast up in there as well and i am wondering if have room for both. Is it the compact air horn u guys are using ? Do you have a model name or number ? Thanks Herb
  5. Hi do you happen picture of teh weld before it painted ? or is the weld naturally dark ? I expected the weld to be aluminum colored ? I assume a Tig machine was used for the weld, do you have any details ? My brother is planning on buying a tig and i was lookig for more info . Thanks Herb
  6. I had no issue on my 02, I think there is a large seal to take off the airbox cover.
  7. I used to use Mobil 1 then they changed the formula then i went to catrol gps , now the castrol is having distribution issues in Canada. So what weights of Mobil 1 is considered ok ? Thanks Herb
  8. I think a rebuild would just change the seals and the oil and the gas. A revalve would actually change the damping as well. When i revalved my shock i used the same seals cause they were fine and i didn't have a sorce of new seals. A new seal head cost more then I was paying for my shock! THe suspension guy would also have to know the weight of your bike as well as you and your gear and the spring rate to have a hope of getting it close the first time. There are hundreds of variables with respect to shim configurations and oils. This is why suspension tunning seems like black magic . I try to only change on thing at a time so i can understand what the change did. thanks Herb
  9. I dont think you will have to drill out much , the stripped hole should be pretty close to the right size. When i went from a 12 to a 14 on my nighthawk i didn't drill the hole out first. Just make sure you get a good quality tap that matches the pitch of the oil plug. It would be best if both the new and old plug had the same pitch.
  10. I cut the the metal mounting brackets out of the rubber , brazed on a couple screws on the back of each to act as anchors. I then reinstalled the mounding brackets in the plastic stocks by filling the stocks with marglass and inseting the modified brackets. The short signals now bolt on like stock. I added a tiny bead of black silicone around them just for looks. The winters are long here . Herb
  11. It didn't work out yet ! I gave up, as I lost confidence in the amount of material that left for the threads in the adjuster part , after i drilled the holes deeper. The holes for the damper rods in the fork cap had to be drilled deeper because the damper rod was too long as the f4 cap goes farther into the fork leg then the xx cap. I think there was another issue but i cant remember what it was .( i may have wrecked one of the parts) I still have the parts and it might still be possible , it just became too much of a pain and i decided to work on other stuff. Herb
  12. I will have to check the partnumber if it is still on one of the shocks i have. But im sure they are just f4i shocks, i dont know if there is more then one version. Here are my initial shim stacks, though i have taken out some compression since then . http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?for...&topicPage=
  13. Could you use a 4into on ones ide then a dummy canister on the other side to hide a good sized nitrous bottle ? If i actually wanted nitrous i would want it totally concealed. but thats just me
  14. Damn, I typed the answer and had a glitch...here goes again. I have used mine to charge a car battery that was larger than 2 bike batteries, so size will not be a problem. My only concern would be if 1 battery was bad and 1 good, would the brain of the Jr. freak out. Battery Tender does make a multi bike charger I just rotate mine between 2 or 3 batteries, every week or 2 as i think or it. Two car batteries and the bike . Herb
  15. I only use loctite on really critical stuff like caliper bolts. Every think else i just use silicon gasket material , by permatex in the squeese tube. It work greats on fairing bolts ect, stops them from comming loose , easy to use and the grey sensor safe kind is almost the same color as my bike. Herb
  16. For the record, the stock shock gas a short piston with an oring on it to separate the oil and nitrogen. Unless this oring fails the oil and gas cann't mix. Herb
  17. Still need a key for steering lock ? I f you stand up to jump some tracks or some other rough stuff will the bike turn off ?
  18. Anyone had the neutral indicator switch screw up yet ? Mine seemed to be hanging up and not lighting the indicator even when the bike was in neutral. After I got home and put the bike up on the center stand it seemed to be working okay. Any one changed the switch. I asume it is inside the cases on the end of the shift drum or something ? I havnt had a chance to look in the manual yet. Thanks Herb
  19. JUst a note, the xx spring is way longer than the 954, I think the first coil on the 954 spring is turned down to a smaller diameter then the xx spring. You will need a custom perch I think i posted some pics of the springs a couple years ago. If you use a stronger spring on the 954 you are going to need more rebound damping as well. Im not trying is discourage you just letting you know what i found out the hard way. If you do get as far as revalving your shock, i'm happy to share the current shim stacks im running now. Its basically the xx stack with some added rebound and some compression removed because of the stiff spring. left to right , xx spring, f4 spring, 1100 lb spring i fittef to f4 shock. The f4 spring is similar in length to the 954. You can see an 954 shock under the bench. I can tell u the f4 shock just need a .5 inch spacer under the mount to be the right length. this thread has the lenth of the f4,954,xx shock in it http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=16625&hl=
  20. The racetech gold valves and new springs will take care of a lot of the harshness once you get them set up right .
  21. I had a 750 s back in the day. It was my first street bike and it seemed pretty fast back in 87, at least compared the 79 blazer i was driving at the time . I would check the simple stuff first like the fine screens in the tank. I woud also check your fuel i remember mine running tons better on premium. Also the plugs. If it idles well i would leave the carbs alone till you have too. Those bikes were reallt lean in the mid to pass smog test so anything that causes them to lean out more is an issue unless you rejet. Thast bike was the cheapest to ride i ever owned !!! I paid 2100 in 87, bought a clutch and a few tires, sold it for 2000 in 93 or 4 ... Bw the way if you ever take teh clucth aprt be very aware of how it works, mine had the most compilcated clutch i ever seen, it was a slipper clutch where only half the plates were used when the back whell was pushing the engine.. It took 5 times with the manua to get it together right ! (after someone moved the way i had then layed out ) Herb
  22. I really think it might just be the oil wearing out and getting thin. Changing the oil would be a little tricky. The hardest part would be finding a place to drill and tap for the nitrogen valve, and making sure the floating piston wasn't bottomed at either end of its range . Herb
  23. Snake. peanut oil !!! planters i think
  24. Does anyone know if there is any difference in length in the front seat section between a gunfighter and a gun fighter and lady? . If so which one has more room ? Thanks Herb
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