Dion

So why do you drop the pressures to 34/36 for aggressive riding - wouldn't the tyre deform more and ruin the handling Depends on the tire and how it's constructed. I run the power race at 29-31F 22-24R and Powers at 29-31F/R at the track. The idea is to get the tires up to their design temp. If you go to low yes the sidewall will start to collapse. For the street you won't be pushing hard enough to justify dropping them that far. If I'm slabbing it or loaded I run stock pressures 42/42. Keeps the tires cooler and they last longer. For fun I run about the same as shovel does but with the powers. It all depends on your riding conditions, there's no right pressure for all conditions/tire combination. Basic rule: For mileage straight up run stock pressures. keeps the tire cooler. For aggressive street riding drop the pressure. Will heat the tire up and increase grip, to a point. (you need to find the pressure that works with your tires/suspension & style. Drop a couple pounds and ride it, then try no more than a pound at a time checking the condition of your tires after each run.) In the strictest terms, anytime you change brand or style of tire you may need to change your suspension geometry. In the rain you should run stock because the tire's never going to heat up any way and you want those grooves wide open. YMMV

What he said. And also check out the pivot bolt. Here's a little tidbit for ya. If you ever start your Honda, put the kickstand up and it dies as soon as you put it in gear, check the pivot bolt.

I don't think it was Akropovic but some company out of England that made one.

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?se...g=17254-MAT-000 Now. Where did the pieces of it go?

When I had the topbox paint the scanner came up with a Subaru color that is a perfet match for the ti birds. I'll see if I can find the left over.

:Edited by Redbird Good catch Tim, I forgot about the little idiotcyncrasy

Yes they will Sarge. honda change the grouping at the collector when they added FI for more mid-range but the headers will fit.

Well actually no but I will be. Sorry for the confusion. I have a 1997 F3 track bike which I am selling. I will be drastically reducing my track day schedule so any future days will be done on the Bird. She's more than capable Really........ what are you looking for for the F3?

Whoa! you're riding "A" on the Bird??

Check the stack vent. Make sure something didn't build a nest on it.

Just checked my manual and it does indeed state 39mm Pg 13-25 Guess I will have to put them back to 39mm from 36mm, am I right in assuming this will quicken the steering like shiming the rear to lift it up :icon_think: Yes, Mine is shimed and I have the front dropped 8mm. For me this is the limit for quickness without being to unstable.

The front and rear are the same on the bird. The two outer pots are for normal braking and the centers handle link functions and are slightly smaller than the outers. I mentioned over braking because you said you have problems sometimes now with locking the rear wheel. Using the bird caliper with the two outer pots and larger pad surface area would be about equivilant to putting a second stock caliper on the bike and could make it more prone to lockup. Borrowing from Brett, Herb and Joe's ideas...... Why not get some custom lines made. Use the rear master to control the front brake with a second line running through a proportioning valve to the rear also. Then run an additional line from a thumb brake to the rear caliper. This would give you a link function for normal braking and the ability to apply more pressure when needed and clean up your right control. Minimal investmant and easy to reverse if you don't like it. I was born and bred in Rochacha. It would funny if your husband and I knew some of the same people. Tim, the 250 is like the bird. Another bike that Honda dfoesn't bring to the states anymore.

I think you may be setting yourself up for an over braking situation. The calipers are designed for a bike that's 3 times as fast and twice as heavy. I have a 400 hondamatic I'll trade you for the 250. no clutch to deal with.

I have a complete rear rim and a 97/98 front if you're interested. The early rim will work but you need to use the early rotors. I should have a M/C laying around too.

Did you know Yo is famous in Holland for having his nose on the pavement? Just ask him why, you'll never believe it...... Sorry Yo, just had to share...... Hmmmmmmmm, wasn't there video relating to this story?

Brett Fuck em all Brett! If you can't fix it fuck it!

Dave with tools! Now there's a scary proposition. Hide your machinary folks! What Brett said Dave. OK useless trivia time - Torx were adopted by GM as a more efficient fastener because they are less prone to being stripped like an allen type fastener for higher torque applications. Hence the name "Torx" Also, because of the design they can be removed with a screw driver. This is why you will see things like the ignition switch on Suzuki's secured with "Security" fasteners which is simply a torx style with a center "tit" of metal left in the fastener to prevent the use of a screw driver. The proper tool for these is simply a torx type driver with a center hole in it to accomobate this "tit" Hey, I told you it was useless trivia

Micron has a nice sound and mine had a tab on it for a center stand stop Tbros are not back until you get on it and have been told it's startling on a fly by. They also have a gizmo for the stand. Touch base with JRed, he makes a stop piece for 4-2-1 systems.

Take the bike to a pro paint supplier. They can scan it with this cool device and probably find the best match for you. When I painted the topcase it turned out my Ti bird is some Subaru color.

I just happen to have a Hyperpro for the XX that I never installed. Since I'll be installing the Wilbur I don't need it.

A buddy did it with an XX shifter and some other bits. I'll get the info from him for ya No Dion, thats what I'm sayin, both RC's are GP shift and I prefur that over regular. All you have to do with the RC is install a VFR or XX shifter and its done. I like clicking down to upshift. Don't miond me eyem alitreit

Thanks guys. Talk to me Jeff I tried it for about 4 laps and like the concept but need to re-educate myself and can't do it switching back and forth. A buddy did it with an XX shifter and some other bits. I'll get the info from him for ya

Does anyone know offhand if some company makes rearsets for the bird that will accomodate a GP shift pattern? I did some quick searches but didn't find any thing.

+1

You shouldn't need to dremel the breaker. As silly as this sounds, make sure the wires are not stressed in the outward direction. Sometimes heavy gauge wires can push the breaker out.