XXTi

There was a link posted on one of the Ducati forums about "Digital HID". Here it is. Digital HID link

I typically change both oil and filter at 5K miles. Mine uses no noticable amount in that time.

No need for a shim with a Penske. They are adjustable for ride height. I'm using 10wt Silkolene "Race" fork oil with 1.05 kg/mm, 100mm over length fork springs. It works for me. Some people like to play with other fork oil viscosities to change their damping characteristics. I'm happy with the new springs, standard weight fork oil and stock valves.

+1 for Pilot Powers.

You might check your local auto parts store next time Tom. They can get any of the NGK products and they are usually cheaper.

Wow. It looks like the price went up since I got mine. I think I paid about $180 for mine, but I don't remember for sure. I'll bet the extra $ will be worth it. BTW, my ZZZ came with a rivet master link in the box. Didn't you get one?

Well.................. Considering how much I truely enjoy that event and seeing everybody again, including you slow-poke, I would love to say Yes, but.... I'll start practicing so I can try to keep up this year. Like Byrdman said, get to welding!

Enjoy Eric. Will we see you at OzarXX?

I have the same problem on Joe's board. I never had the issue here. I'll be interested to hear the solution.

Yes. The EK-ZZZ is an o-ring type chain. I think they call their o-ring and x-ring and claim it's better. I think you have a '99 right? The proper plug from the NGK web site is part number CR9EHIX-9. Your auto parts store will probably want the stock number. It is 6216. Here's a link. NGK Site

As others have said, I just grind my chains off with a dremel, or equivalent. I only use the tool to install the new master link.

I guess there are various tensile strengths published, but the DID link on White Buff's web site lists its tensile strength as 10,400. DID Chart The EK site shows a tensile strength of 11,000 if it makes a difference to you. EK page

My ZZZ chain has about 5000 miles on it and looks brand new. Mine has sliver side plates, but I think other colors are available. I have a Motion Pro chain tool kit, (the one in the grey plastic box). It works OK, but I'd rate it as a hobby grade tool. There are several tougher looking tools out there. I think Motion Pro, RK, DID and others make some good ones, but I've never tried them.

I'm running an EK-ZZZ chain now. It's rated even higher than the one Chris is using. I'm hoping it lasts forever with the Pro-Oiler. It's also nice to get the spacers that prevent you from over-crimping the rivets. Parts411 used to have the best prices on this chain, but I don't see it on their web site now.

Thanks Joe! That fixed it.

That Pilot Road 2 does sound interesting. I'm running Powers right now and love them. I don't know yet how many miles I'm gonna get out of them.

Yep. I remember that. I think you got the Braking rotors a little cheaper than the Galfers too.

I'm running Galfer wave rotors on both wheels. I bought them last year to go with the Caroshiteia wheels. I don't notice any real difference in performance, but they sure are blingy.

I know the thread locker from Honda is red colored, but I don't think it is "red locktite". That shit sets up like iron.

The front rotor bolts torque to 14 ft/lbs. The rear rotor torques to 31 ft/lbs. I use blue (medium strength) loctite. The red stuff is permanent. The torques are shown on the front and rear wheel pages in the Honda manual.

I'm using the Ohlins springs from Jaws. They are about 100mm longer than stock.

You might take a look at the shop manual or one of the online microfiches (Ron Ayers, etc.) for assembly order.

Try University Motors. They have great service and prices.

The faults are recorded and retained in the ECU until they are cleared and reset. I believe you may be able to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a short time too.

The reset connector is a two prong connector on the right hand side. It's near the rear on the cowl.