XXTi

Yeah there is. Check out RonAyers.com. They have a parts microfiche online. The 45 tooth rear sprocket is 41201-MAT-A00. There are two numbers for the OEM 17 tooth front sprocket. They are 23801-MAT-000 and 23801-MAT-760. I don't know what the difference is.

I have a Penske, but I'm closer to your friend's size than your's. I have the 1100# spring and run my rebound at 15 clicks from full damping and the compression on 1 or 2 if I'm just cruising down the highway. I firm it up a bit for the twisties. You can ask the tech folks at Penske for recommended adjustments for your size, weight, and bike. They were responsive when I contacted them by e-mail. I can't comment on the forks. I still haven't modified mine. :oops: Good luck and enjoy your 'Bird.

Stock length is 110 links.

I had the same situation. I just installed an additional rubber washer to take up the slack. No rattles now. :grin:

The bike has to be moving for the front brake to actuate the rear. You can simulate bike motion by lifting up on the left caliper. That should move the secondary master cylinder and apply the rear brake.

You need a master link that matches your chain. The old bullshit of "this one should work" got me in trouble. I'll never go for it again. If your chain is a VM, I'd go for the VM master link. Good luck!

On second (third?) thought, I guess the air temp. doesn't really vary all that much since absolute temperature (Temp F +460) is used in the calculations. It's probably insignificant isn't it?

Hmmm. That's interesting. I wonder how they do that since the mass of a volume of gas varies with both pressure and temperature.

Sorry if I'm being Mr. Obvious here, but I think the IAT and MAP sensors are used to estimate the mass of the intake air charge. The FI system adds fuel in proportion to the mass of the air charge.

My '00 came with an RK chain too. I replaced it at about 20K miles with a Honda chain kit. The kit came with both sprockets and a DID ZVS chain. All OEM parts of course. The ZVS was the OEM DID chain, at least in '00. The ZVS or ZVM will work just fine. No matter what you may hear, the ZVS is not identical to the ZVM. Don't ask me how I know. :oops:

XXera came through in a pinch. The ZVS master link he sent me will fit perfectly. It still baffles me why Honda/DID would bother to make to chains so similar but different. (0.205 vs 0.210 master link pins) Maybe DID beefed up the pins when they brought out the ZVM. Anyway, thanks again Ronnie!!! The members of this forum never cease to amaze me with their willingness to help.

If you have a 50ZVS Master link, I would love to have it. The 50ZVM just won't work. PM me please with details.

I bought the Honda chain kit with the DID 50 ZVS chain a few weeks ago and all was well. The chain and sprockets went on perfectly. The problem started when I screwed up the rivet on the master link. It looked like the "No Good" pic of the chain rivet in the service manual. Ever the dauntless mechanic, I ordered a new master link from our friends at Honda. Unfortunately, the OEM master link is on backorder from Honda and seems to be totally unavailable. The dealer called tech support for a substitute part number and they were told to substitute a DID 50 ZVM link. I got the 50ZVM master link and went merrily home to get my bike ready for the MegaXXT meet in ESA. I put the link in and it completely locked up the adjacent links. I think "Well shit I fucked up the installation" so I searched the NE OK area and found another 50 ZVM link about 70 miles from me. I ran over and picked the link up this AM and very carefully installed it. The links were locked up again! :evil: :evil: After some careful measuring, it seems the ZMV link pins are 0.005 larger in diameter than the ZVS link pins. The 0.210 ZVM link pins are a press fit in my 0.208 ZVS chain link holes. The ZVS pins measure 0.205. Of course the ZVS link is still on backorder from Honda. Does anyone have a clue where I might find a 50 ZVS master link? Ron Ayers and Service Honda don't have any in stock.

I don't think the light goes off when a problem goes away. You can check the fault codes (if any) stored in the ECM. You can also reset the ECM to erase any stored codes. Check out the procedure in the service manual. Good luck.

I did the same per Carlos' recommendation and my clutch fluid is staying nice and clear.

I have the new XX CCT(-315 I think) and it is working just fine for now. I think a manual CCT would be a pain and could be overtightened pretty easily.

Well it looks like you were right a few months ago. At least one silver bike will be faster than the titanium model. Very impressive. What's it like to drive on the street? Is it civilized?

Yeah, I was afraid you guys would say that. :cry: I've been telling myself the same thing. I was trying to get a rivet head diameter of 0.22 and must have overtightened it. Any ideas where I can buy a DID master link for a 50-ZVS (ZVM)?

Well, I finally got around to installing the new chain and sprocket set. I bought the kit from Service Honda. The chain and front sprocket were shagged at 20,250 miles. The rear showed some wear, and it would have been OK for a while. The kit had the DID chain, and both sprockets, so I replaced them both. One question though. I split the side of one of the master link rivets when I was expanding the rivet. The other one looks perfect. The manual tells you not to split the rivets. Should I get another master link? I think the link will be fine, but when in doubt, I like to ask the forum. :grin:

I usually get between 32 and 35 MPG. YMMV depending on how hard you crank it. I've been in the high 20's a few times.

Penske! ( or Ohlins :razz: )

I want to lube the master link pins before pressing it in, installing the o-rings and finishing the rivets. I'm thinking 80-90 wt. gear lube. What do you guys use?

Glad I could help. :grin:

You have to rewind the spring and retract the tensioner. A small screwdriver in the center hole where you removed the bolt will do the job. Good luck.

Did you get the governor mechanism reinstalled right? It's different on every mower I've ever had apart, but there usually is an arm and linkage of some kind that is a real pain in the ass to get right.