rickrad

I really don't think it makes too much difference. We bought the stuff that was about $3.78 per sq. ft and all of the people that were looking at the house thought it was the high dollar stuff. Who was I to correct them. Durability is the same and not an issue. I was dragging all kinds of furniture over the floor and it never dented or scratched. When I was installing it, if you hit it wrong with a mallet the shit was bust all to hell but one it is installed the shit is bullet proof. Well, I wouldn't try a bullet, but you understand. :wink: Seriously duder, call me, we'll make a run and look at it.

Anytime brutha you know I'll be there. Unless you want to go Dec. 30 thru Jan 2 (I'll be in Michigan) or Jan.7 thru Jan.10 (I'll be in Cali) :cool:

The way these "snap" together, you can't start in the middle. If you did they wouldn't attach together properly. I did move, for some fucked up reason I decided to drop some coin in before I left. I guess as a goodbye present to Lowe's. :roll:

I did most of my house in TX with the Armstrong stuff. It was easy cause it had the backing already attached all I had to do was put the plastic vapor barrier down before I started laying the stuff. I am confused on what EVLXX is talking about but on the snap together stuff DON'T START IN THE MIDDLE you'll never get it done right! A good chop saw is essential (you can rent one) if you are going to do 45 degrees across the room (which is what I did it looks the best IMO) (A little more srap but worth it) get a 12" saw, a 10" won't reach all of the way across the plank. I really had a good time doing it, it was like instant floor in a day or two. It's always cool to see your finished product ya know? Call me if you want me to help you out or just to bounce some ideas. oh. my floor:

:pointup: :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: :pointup: Is that the only way you can tell? LOL :wink:

SELL IT! :razz: :wink:

How hot was it running? The symptoms you desribe sounds like the way it runs when it is overheated and the white smoke would be coolant boiling over onto the headers. just my .02

Don't mean to hijack but Joe, glad to see you back.... especially after seeing your front!

The only thing you need to remove is the #18. Pads should slide right out after you take that out.

I like these http://www.streetracerparts.com/index.asp?...S&Category=3007

I really like my Helibars. FWIW

Pit Bull all the way. You can reposition your horn to use the stem stand, which is important if you ever have to remove your forks. http://www.pit-bull.com/Forklift%20and%20Converter.htm

Here's another option SELL IT!

42 front & rear but it depends on the tire.

Pro Honda SS-8 (adjust to your weight and riding) 16.3 +/- 0.08 US oz. (again, adjust to your weight and riding) Adjust the torque on the adjusting nut then move stop to stop at least 5 times to set the bearings then re-torque Adjusting nut should be 18 lbf-ft (25 N-m) and the stem nut should be 76 lbf-ft (103 N-m)

Full stock and I've been wanting to get a full Micron 4-2-1 but haven't had the funds.

IMHO go all the way or none at all. Linked or de-linked each has good and bad. Here is a good thread if you decide to go all the way. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...light=delinking Happy trails.

:shock: Tim, I thought you were a roofer not a plumber.

Sorry it doesn't do much for me, everytime I see a naked sportbike all I can think about is a squid that crashed and can't afford the new plastic. I am just mentally blocked when it comes to this stuff I guess. I do marvel at the skill it takes to build a new tailsection. That shit isn't easy.

What do you have now? I'm looking for just the opposite.

You can actually cut quite a bit of material out before it becomes a problem. It all depends on the location though. You should be fine.

Loctite everything. Can't hurt.

Assuming, is it electric or gas?

I wiegh about the same as you and went with the race tech springs (heaviest they make) and really like them. FWIW.

yup, and simultainiously (sp?) you might smell your own shit.