MileHi

I only have the low beam . No can testy. I didn't have time this weekend to work on it, but by using the starter switch method it's been working. I really don't like having to start the bike that way though (takes both hands :evil: ). Obby, I think that they meant for you to try using the plug from your hi beam for a test of the HID. It can't hurt, and if the HID works w/o all the problems then you can eliminate the HID ballast and concentrate you efforts on the switchgear.

My Silverado does the same thing, DRL are on whenever it's in gear. But....the headlights and daytime running lights are two totally different things, at least in the case of my truck, and most cars I see going down the road. OBS (Old Body Style) GM SUVs use the lo beam for the DRL...

Thanks for the info Bill... I just got mine installed this afternoon and took it out for a quick 50 mile blast. You're right about the smoother airflow and I'm happy to report that when it's set at it's highest setting the flow is still smooth well into the triple digits...

It's not just Two Bros... I had the same problem with the Yosh's... And I did manage to gouge the crap outta the left side of the swingarm before I figured what was happening.

DOT5?!?!?! Dude, only use DOT5 AFTER replacing ever single rubber bit in the bake system and AFTER a thorough and complete purge of the old stuff... Now if ya meant DOT5.1... That's a different story. DOT5.1 is compatable with DOT3/4.

Yeah, and a few more details would be helpful... Kinda like my Ex calin' me up and telling me she got the blue screen of death... I ask her what the error said and she tells me she doesn't know 'cuz she rebooted the PC...

Digital cameras are wonderful things... Ya snap abuch of pictures BEFORE you pull everything apart and refer back to them when you're trying to figure out what that extra hose is for... +2 on the vent hose... Oh yeah... Do you have a Honda service manual? It has nice pictures/drawings of the various subsystems.

So, Big-V... Didja buy Johnny Monsoon's XX??? Or didja find another one? You've been awfully quiet up to now... And now you're asking rather specific questions... So didja rescue his XX???

I sorta remember that the pin outs are a bit different and you also gain a flash-to-pass button.

Here's the latest thread discussing this... http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...ean+switch+gear

Dayum Sam!!! Me likes! OK... Who wants to buy a virtually new (used for one ride) Airblade smoke windscreen??? Have you been able to put it to the test yet??? Zat a clear screen? Damn it looks good!

Hey Mikey... Ever hear of DRL (Daytime Running Lights)? GM seem to luv 'em. My Tahoe runs with the lights on whenever the vehicle is running and in gear.

Hey Bill, is the MRA moulded is such a way that the the edges of the screen are flush with the fairing panels, kinda like the stocker is???

This same thing popped up back when I had the Bandit... A couple of guys tried 'em and the results were less than impressive. I seems that the manufacturers engineers knew what they were doing (in most cases) when they designed the airboxes... Better yet... Send me the $140 and I'll blow in yer ear! :eyebrows:

I agree wit your statement about the movement... And it's my bad about the heim joint statement... It's the Duc that has a heim joint in one of it's shock's eyelets...

No side to side but up and down movement. Since the balljoint works in all 3 axes, if you put a big spanner in the r/wheel axle bolt (with the bike on the c/stand) and apply some force, you can see and feel swingarm movement. Notin a brand new shock, but after some mileage all the ball joints are creating some tolerance. If it is excessive it is time to replace the ball joint. The up and down some times can fool you. As far as the location of the b/joint I might get confused with my other bikes, but I will check it, still I remember it on the top. The closest thing to a ball joint in the rear suspension is the heim joint built into the top of the shock. And unlike a ball joint the movement is quite limited.

Not necessarily guys... The bulbs I have (from a previous install... different ballasts) has the bulb base notched so that the ONLY way to get it in, is with the wire on the top... The chamber that produces the light is a globe inside the outer bulb. If the wire is gonna block some of the light, I'd rather it block light going up not down on the road where I want it. I've been running these bulbs this way for months w/o any problems.

Uh, fuses or bulbs??? The front and rear brakes use seperate switches... I find it hard to believe tha BOTH went at the same time... It's gotta be something common to both... Bulbs, the fuse, taillight ground connectors. Try following the wires back from the tail light and check the harness.

Helvet, I've heard a fair bit about about the Continental Conti RoadAttack. Since Conti is probably more common in Europe, I was wondering what experiences you've heard about them on the 'Bird?

Just a FYI... www.cyclebrakes.com has Galfer s/s clutch and front brake kits for $119 plus shipping. I also got the bleeder fitting for the m/c for ten bucks a piece. Just shy of a buck-fiddy for the lines, fittings and shipping.

You had to splice into the stock wiring harness?!?!?! Dude... Unless your kit is drastically different fro the others, all you have to do is plug the spade onnectors from the HIDs into the OEM headlight plugs. As for mounting the ballasts... what year is your 'Bird? Those that have a digital dash have it a lot easier as to mounting options for the ballasts and igniters. I (analog dash/gauges) mounted the ballasts onto the flat part of the intake rinners using the supplied double-sided sticky pad. I then ran the high voltage lines (with igniter) to the headlight assembly and coiled/zip tied the excess.

I just ordered some from JC Whitney... http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product...LASTIC%20RIVETS

Edward... I'm not knocking Amsoil (I use it and Mobil 1), but... Quote: In the past, it was always believed that purchasing a synthetic oil meant just that, you were buying an oil that was man made rather than a petroleum that was pumped out of the ground. As of a few years ago, this all changed with the reformulation of Castrol Syntec. They had changed their formula from a PAO Base Stock, which was one of the most commonly used Base Stocks at the time, to a Petroleum Base that had gone through a process called Hydrocracking. This process refines the oil very well, to a point that Castrol called it a Synthetic. While doing some testing Mobil 1 discovered the formula change and took Castrol to court claiming that they were false advertising the oil as a Synthetic, since it's Base Stock was made from a Petroleum. Mobil's stand basically said that a "synthetic" oil is something man made in a lab to certain specification that cannot be found in nature that way, which was the common thought even consumers had at the time. Castrol's stand was that this process the oil went through was so refined that it no longer resembled anything in nature, therefore it was a synthetic. Because the API couldn't come up with a good definition of a synthetic themselves, they accepted Castrol's definition. This type of oil is cheaper to produce than the PAO synthetic, but unfortunately the consumer never benefited from the cheaper manufacturing costs, while the oil manufacturers most likely makes a bigger profit from each sale. This has now changed how oil is made and sold, and it's classification. There are five Groups of oils. Group I rarely is used anymore, while Group II is your common Petroleum oil. This "hydrocracked" oil is commonly referred to as a Group III oil, while the PAO Synthetics are a Group IV. Group V oils do exist, but are uncommon, and typically not often used for automotive use. From the information given to me last, EVERY synthetic on the market today has converted over to this Group III oil, with the exception of most of the Amsoil line, Mobil 1, and a few other specialty oils, usually more difficult to find. Amsoil's XL-7500 line of oil is a Group III oil. It is not designed for the extended drains that their other lines are, therefore, the Group III formula is perfect for it's 7,500 mile or six month drain interval. When this oil became a Group III oil, Amsoil did lower their price, unlike the competition. Amsoil's standard 25,000 mile oil and their Series 2000 is a Group IV "Genuine PAO Formulated Synthetic" oil. Group III oils have been around for a few years now, and are being used in other applications as well, such as Transmission Fluids and Gear Lubes, however, as time continues, it is being found and noted that they do not last as well as the PAO Synthetics. And this seems logical, it is still a Petroleum based oil, and suffers the same breakdown temps as the less refined Group II oils. For this reason, these fluids are being beefed up with additives. But rather than slowly breaking down over time, like the Group IV fluids, these fluids tend to remain stable until the additives wear out and rapidly drop in their performance and protection. For this reason, many manufacturers who were putting a synthetic into their products for the added protection, are finding that they are not getting what they expected, and it is predicted that many future Owner's Manuals will stop requiring merely a "synthetic" oil, but a Group IV synthetic oil. Below are some comparisons of oils you might now even be using. This data was compiled in the Spring of 2003 by Amsoil Dealer George Kimball. Note how each rates, the "base" the oil really is, and the cost comparison of using a superior product: Amsoil! End Quote http://www.technilube.com/sections/comps/s.../synth_diff.htm

Uh, that's not exactly right... Amsoil and Mobil 1 are true blue synthetics.

What is this about the DOT putting the kabash on these kit? Simply put, the DOT has banned aftermarket HID kits w/o the "appropriate" HID lense and housing. The problem is that many kits (the higher Kelvin bulbs in particular) produce quite a bit of glare to oncoming vehicles. A factory installed HID has a very distinct/sharp cut-off and the light is directed to where it is most needed. If you where to examine the light produced by many HID kit installations you would see what I mean. This problem is due to the reflector being designed for a specific halogen bulb's focal point. Now, as for our 'Birds... The cut off on the low beam is very distinct/sharp... Almost as if the headlight assembly was designed for HIDs... Alignment/adjustment is crucial to avoid this. Warchild has an excellent writeup on alignment. Oh, and of course I can't find the freakin' gubmint site that contains the exact verbage of the ban... That's why most of these kits are "for off-raod use only" and/or ar sold through offshore vendors. Found an interesting way around the NHTSA/DOT ban... http://www.sigmaauto.com/HID/x5kit.php