MileHi

I believe it's the '99 R1 regulator.

And the EK 530ZZZ is way better than the EK 530 ZVX. The EK chains also come with a shim tool that you slide behind the sideplate before you peen it down. It helps prevent you from over torquing it.

Don't Panic.... A towel is about the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitchhiker can have. You can wrap it around you for warmth as you bound across the cold moons of Jaglan Beta…wet it for use in hand-to-hand combat…wrap it around your head to ward off noxious fumes…any man who can hitch the length and breadth of the Galaxy, rough it … win through, and still know where his towel is, is clearly a man to be reckoned with.

I thought that I'd ressurect this thread. I found that the DuPont Teflon spray really quiets the chain, but eventually gets diluted with my Pro-Oiler. So I tried mixing some of the non aerosol with the oil in the resevoir. That didn't work as the teflon settled out. That got me thinking again. I have a quart of Grease Lightning (like Slick 50) that is a teflon suspended in a 10w-30 oil base. So... I cleaned my chain and filled the Pro-Oiler with that stuff. The chain still gets a shot of oil and teflon. Gonna try this for a while and see if it makes a difference.

What Redbird suggested... Bank Angle Sensor.

Just about any good metal polish will do it. That's what I use.

Where'd ya hear that??? The Z6 rears that I had stuck just fine and were an excellent cold/wet tire. That sounds more like the rep of the Z4... I didn't know that Metzeler still made the Z4. +1... I guess I'll go score another set of Diablos too!

I not sure as to how it could be stress related... The racks mount to the grab rail with replacement (longer) bolts and spacers. All the other mount points are on parts of the bike that aren't related to the tail piece.

So how bright are the LEDs at night. These old eyes need a dash bright enough to see, but not so bright as to worsen my night vision... Yeah, I do agree with you about the Silverstars, but I replaced those with HIDs over a year ago. Good to know about the polarity of the LEDs... That bit of wisdom will possible eliminate a whole lot of potential cursing, kicking and screaming... The dash lights can usually be accessed by simply removing the wind screen. I found that with a pair of needle nose pliers or a pair of hemostats makes the job easier for me...

I'm kinda revisiting LED replacements for the dash, front turn signals and the brake/tail lights. It seems that there has been aa lot of new designs and types of LEDs since I last looked. Anyone using LEDs for the dash lights? I am considering these red Superstar LEDs with H/S ... For those of you that fly, isn't that what's used for aircraft instrumentation at night? For the front turn signals these SideWinder Tower Lights in amber. And finally, for the tail/brake lights these 24 High Powered Wide Angle SMT LEDS I already have LEDs in the rear turn signals and a digital T/S relay... Comments or suggestions?

One of the nice extra touches with my EK ZZZ chain was these spacers that you slid into the chain. This kept me from manhandling the chain when crimping the master link. Oh, that M/L looks like it needs a bit more work.

Before you go jumping in to that.... I should clarify... By Dry lube... I was referring to Moly. Because Moly is one of a very few materials that will stick to metal after the carrier is gone and continue to lubricate under ultra extreme pressures and prevent corossion. But to my knowledge you have to buy it in a pre-suspended form. Hence why I use the stuff from GuardDog, and mix it with my oil. Understood... That's why the 8 oz. bottle of the oil additive caught my eye. That should last quite a while with the Pro-oiler.

I've been using leftover oil from my oil changes... Kind of a 15W-45... Once I got thge Pro-oiler adjusted right, there's not too much fling and it wipes off the wheel easy enough. I do like Eric's idea with the dry lube additive... Gonna give that a try...

I finally got some time (I had to take vacation time) to start putting the 'Bird back together. I got the rear wheel on, adjusted the chain and took her out for a quick spin. Once I got back, I started to put the (Pyramid) hugger back on... Well, there aren't too many ways to to install it (like only one!), but the damned thing is rubbing on my new Pirelli Diablo. I'm wondering if the Diablo is taller than my pervious tires... Like the Metzeler Z6 or the Pilot Powers. Has anyone else experienced this? And does anyone know of a hugger that might not "hug" the rear tire as closely??? Just color me confused... I guess I'll be running w/o a chain guard or hugger until I get this sorted out.

Excellent point... Did you clearcoat the painted parts, or did you leave them as is?

It's Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Coating... I got it at Schucks/Checker. Not trying to hijack your thread but as you are saying the bearings are different then I guess these eBay ones bearings could not possibly fit all years as stated is that correct :icon_think: That looks like the kit I got. If it comes with 6004 bearings for the front then it's for the 97-98. The 99+ use a 6204 bearing...

LOL... I have a pair on the way... Cheap is nice and they look pretty good too. I think I'll polish the bare metal and spray the whole wheels with the clearcoat.

Christ, work has had me so busy for the last three months that the poor 'Bird has been sitting in the garage waiting to be put back together. I got ready to replace the wheel bearing when I discovered a few things... One of my front wheel bearings was really getting bad (terrible grinding noises), I didn't order replacement seals and the bearing kit I ordered (last year) has bearings for the 97-98 front wheel not for the 99+... So, here I sit waiting for the new bearings and seals... Since I had stripped the apint off the wheels last year, I decided that I'd try and paint 'em. I picked up some medium gray Dupli-Color wheel paint and rattle canned them... I think that they turned out OK. And if I decide that I don't like 'em , I can re-strip them and try something else...

The one thing to seriously consider is that these are the kits with the exciter/ballast in one unit. Therefore the ballast is quite a bit larger that the ballasts with the separate exciter. I originally had a pair like that and replaced 'em with the kits that that had the separate components as it was much easier to mount them behind the dash.

Mine is is another early unit with reed switch and I'm real close yo your settings... S1 (or setting 3) table 12. That works out to a pulse very 3306 revolutions and makes for a cleaner rear wheel with a well oiled chain.

Slip 'em on... Snug all the bolts down just enough so that ther is resistance. Then tweak away. Once you get it "right", tighten everything down and bounce the bike around... I at first had the left can too close to the swing arm and it rubbed a little notch into the swing arm.

Ok, I've heard of people going with a pilot power up front and a road in the rear. Thoughts? Is $299 before tax any kind of a deal on these tires? That's what it comes out to at the stealership with $100 off. I may be better off getting them elsewhere? Thanks. For those that like the PR... That seems to be an excellent combination. As for the price... You gonna mount 'em or is the dealer? If the dealer... How much? And how much do they charge if you bring in your own tires for them to mount. If you're going to mount them, then you could easily get a better price for the tires.... If a dealer mount charge enters into the equation them you need to total all the costs and decide.

Uh huh... Then pay up the wahzoo trying to get the EPA'd... Trying being the key word here.

Pyramid Plastics

I just received my PC and have the same cans and filter on my '99. I downloaded your map and if I'm reading it right it is a zero map. I'm still trying to figure out how to work the software though. Is it a zero map? Thanks, MTXX Not exactly... It was made here in Boise at a BMW/Ducati shop. The map makes the bike REALLY run smoother and the HP/Tourque gain was negligable, but it really optimized the A/F ratio.