Warchild

The PC-IIIusb Group Buy has begun! Got a fairly good price for brand new Power Commanders for all US model years of the Blackbird, 1999-2003, and all European model years 1999-2006. Retail price is ~ $340.00 Group Buy price will be $253.15 each, includes all cabling, OEM connectors, etc (doesn't include shipping). It is my understanding from DynoJet that California and European models need the Oxygen Sensor eliminator kit. It retails for $30, but is only $12-ish under this Group Buy.Here's the link with the detailed instructions: PC-IIIusb Group Buy - Detailed Instructions Note this Group Buy last 10 days only - Oct 17 - Oct 27, 2006

If he was referring to the 2002 and onward Viffers, I can understand why he would say that. ndzr - checking the valves on the XX is (relatively) trivial... the bulk of the work involves removing tupperware/components to actually get to them: It's only when you have to actually *adjust* a valve clearance that things become a bit more involved.... you gotta yank the cams to do that.

ACK.... I hadn't thought of that till you mentioned it.... Since installing the Wilbers shock (with it's built-in ride-height increase), the steering is now so fast, it made the Avons feel almost twitchy. So much so, I went back to Pilot Roads to counteract that sensation. Shortening the wheelbase should also quicken the steering to some degree..... which might not be the optimum situation for what I need the bike to do. Maybe I will take a look at 111 links on the chain, ASSuming that leaves sufficient travel left on the chain's rear adjustment mechanism to allow for chain stretch over time.... :icon_think:

No.... I am strictly interested in this mod for MPG issues only. In fact, I will use the 18T front sprocket solely for this event I am doing next year, then I'll go back to the stock countersprocket after the ride. I use my XX primarily for Endurance Riding nowadays. In the vast desolate Nevada outback, the speeds we travel at - all day long - often yield MPG figures in the low-mid 20's. Even carrying 11.5 gallons of fuel, this still means I only have about a 220-240 mile range before my low fuel light start to glow steady... I really need something more on the order of at least 30 mpg for the event in question. Too, I am toying with the idea of a PC-IIusb and purposely lean out the mixture to try to squeeze an extra couple MPG, if its doable. Obviously, I need to be very careful going that direction. I can't lean it out too much, because I don't want to burn up the exhaust valves traveling at 130+mph in too lean a condition for many days in a row. Too, every Power Commander I've installed over the years almost always results in a loss of a couple MPG (which is pretty much expected, since the vast majority of the time you are enrichening the mixture from stock). But if I purposely program the PC-III a bit lean, the motor will run very, very hot, similar to the way the FJR1300 runs right out of the crate. Even busting along at 120+ mph on the FJR, I can still get 31-33 mpg all day long. I need to mimic that 30+ MPG (at mega-high speed) on the XX for this event next year.... :icon_shhh:

What a timely subject... I have a ride next year where I will be extremely interested in lowering my RPM's at typical Nevada speeds.... Couple a quick questions for those who have gone to 18T: 1) How bad was the impact to accelleration? Noticable, but not too bad? Or are you finding you really need to wind it up when you're coming off the line? How about uber-tight twisties.... are finding you need to take some of the tighter, slower corners in a lower gear than before? 2) In 6th gear at highway/desert speeds, what kind of drop in RPMs are you seeing with 18T at, say, 70mph? 100mph? 3) I assume you'all are scoring a good, quality 18T steel countersprocket.... what brand are y'all using? TIA, gentlemen....

Well, I was once told it was the PC-II, but their web site now suggests it's a PC-IIIusb... Linky ==> CBR1100XX Power Commander #102-411

When you ordered the Haynes Manual (which is quite excellent, BTW), you should have ordered the special tool (Honda Steering Stem Socket p/n: 07916-3710101) required to properly torque the steering stem: If you're going to go with tapered bearings (highly, HIGHLY recommended), here's how it is done: Installing tapered steering stems bearings in the Blackbird

Unlike your mechanic, the seller made a correct statement. Here is how it is done: Changing the Blackbird spark plugs

Jeff, you may well have the HOTTEST Blackbird in the world..... the wheels, that exhaust, the muted paint, the Heavy Bus forks, triple-piston calipers w/ Wave rotors.... ....and that Fireblade rear cowl, holy jeeze..... :icon_clap: Is that exhaust hangar carbon fiber, or powder-coated aluminum, or... ?

I had considerable experience with these two brands on the Blackbird. For me, the Avons absolutely turns in faster and also has faster transitions than the Pilot Roads. That doesn't mean the PRs are not good, because they are... in fact, since installing the Wilbers shock last year (with it's higher ride height), I found the Avons now turn in so fast, it's almost twitchy. Was also was being push around in the wind considerably more then I was prior to the Wilbers install. So... I have gone back to Pilot Roads on the XX to preclude the twitchiness. I prefer the wet grip and longevity of the Avons, but the Pilot Roads aren't terribly far behind the Avons in this regard, and I still have blistering fast steering due to the Wilbers 15mm ride height increase. But if I didn't have the ride height increase (either thru the Wilbers shock, ot the 6mm shim trick), I'd still be on the Avons. And the Avons are strictly used on my FJR. They kick serious ass, IMO.....

That is completely awesome. You are my hero; I would kill to break into the 200lbs range again! Related subject: Today, I joined a 4-man team at work in a company-wide "Weight-Loss" contest as part of the United Way campaign drive. Teams were weighed today, and will be weighed again at the end of the month. The team that looses the highest percentage of weight will win various sundry prizes. The weigh-in was a fucking riot (well... sorta): what they did was have all teams meet at the shipping warehouse dock, where we had to all climb onto one of those massive freight scales (the floor of the scale was 5'x5'! ) to get one total combined weight. Before stepping on the scale, the four of us were joking around, teasing each other that our combined weight would break into the 4-digit range. We stopped laughing when we watched the digital reading climb and climb and climb....... holy fucking shit, 936.3lbs, combined! Our goal is to at least get below 900lbs combined.... somewhere in the 880-890 range would be a feat, given that all four of us are software engineers, sitting in front of a computer all day. Adding to the challenge is that, while two of our team members are in there late 20's, I'm the second oldest at 48, the 4th member is 51. Y'all know how relatively easy it is to lose weight in your 20's.. and how difficult it can be for the post-40 crowd.... :icon_wall: Anyway, this should be good....

Oh, no, no, no, no.... whenever I can get around to doing another GB, it won't be these TastyNut Ti bolts... I am honor-bound to do the Pro-Oiler GB first. Fuck me running, I've only been trying to get to that for about 6 months now. It's been like a frickin' Greek tragic comedy, trying to find the free time to finally get to that one... While they are EXCEPTIONALLY cool, the Ti bolts are not exactly inexpensive... example: looks like they are $39 from MotoWheels: Honda Ti windshield bolts The Targa web site has XX windscreen aluminum buttonhead windscreen fasteners (pack of 6) for $11, and come in a bunch of anodized colors... but they look kinda odd/out of place, and a little cheap (personal opinion). More importantly, the aluminum fasteners don't add 4 hp to the rear wheel like the Ti bolts do...

I got a black-anodized aluminum bodywork kit for my FJR, and they are pretty sweet for that bike.... but only because they were pretty close in size to the OEM fasteners on the FJR: HOWEVER, the fasteners on the Blackbird are considerably different, and I do NOT think it's a good choice for the 'Bird, truth be told. You can get replacement OEM Honda hardware for DIRT-CHEAP from Gary McCoy at University Motors. I just replaced three of the large (16mm) fasteners (used on the lower center of both side fairings, they are also on the forward portion on the rear cowl)) for surprisingly few $$$ from him. Their web site: http://www.umotorsfargo.com/

Is there a place to get these within the states? Probably... I think so. But I've gotten aluminum fastener bodywork kits, titanium caliper bolts, titanium carrier bolts, and the titanium windshioeld bolts directly from Pro-Bolt in England, and they all arrived just as advertised and pretty quickly, too.

Score some Titanium windscreen bolts from TastyNuts.com! They are completely bad-ass, add 4 hp put to the ground, and chicks dig 'em!

Well, he does ride the big Yammy pretty hard, maybe even unneccessarily hard... perhaps it's an issue involving throttle discipline (rather, lack thereof.... ) Too, the FJR has a good bit more torque than the XX, and weighs a goodly bit more as well. So this, couple with an overly enthusiastic throttle hand, no doubt contributes to his abbreviated treadlife.

Surprise. Based on my feedback and many others riders (both here and in Europe), Conti changed the design of the tire sometime last year to eliminate the problems myself and others were seeing (note my original post is over two years old). The sidewalls were indeed the primary culprit... they stiffened them up considerably from the 2004 version of the tire, which is is why you needed tire irons, but I could literally mount the 2004 version onto the rim with my hands. Glad you like 'em, but others aren't finding a very good treadlife even on the newer design of the ContiAttacks. Here's a guy's report (posted just yesterday) on his Conti Road Attacks he used on his FJR: Like I said in my July 2004 review of these Road Attacks, tires are extremely subjective, and unless all riders considering a certain tire all have the same riding style and riding environment, tire comparo's are generally not all that useful.

After installing the Wilbers shock (increased ride hight by 15mm), I found that the turn-in on my beloved Avons was *so* fast, the bike actually felt a little twichy in some situations - high winds seemed to move the bike around a lot more, and high-speed stability didn't seem quite so planted. So I've gone back to the Pilot Roads since they don't have the narrow, triangular profile the Avons do. With the Avons, I'd be doing good to see 6500-7000 miles out of the rear. The Pilot Roads are a bit better for me, though not a whole lot: I average about 7500-8000 miles out of the rear. Now... if I'm riding in a competitive LD rally, then all bets are off.... this Pilot Road below was brand new at the start of a 48-hour event I did back in 2003:

Well, if it's the former.... those of us who are about to pass over 100,000 miles on the bike, we would care!

Mike, you've gone through three CCT units to this opoint, is that correct? Did I read this thread too fast, or were all of your CCTs of the old design (the pre X-11 version)?

Night Train is just shy of 90,000 miles now. I have never replaced the fuel filter, nor synch'ed the throttle bodies. Ever.

Not on the Blackbird, no way, no how. Go with the staked masterlink. Trust me.

Er.... is this a trick question? You have to check it when the bike is level. If you check it on the sidestand, the oil dipstick will be totally inaccurate.

Mobil One 15w-50.... gold cap nowadays, I believe.

That second photo definitely lends itself to conclude a manufacturing defect.... while anything is possible, IMO it's not likely that cords emerging from the tread in this manner are the result of hitting road debris....