The Krypt Keeper

Posting for my friend who leaves for boot camp in a month. Few of us here has rode with him in Lancaster PA. 17400 miles power commander k&n air filter secondary flies are removed New handlebars to move them forward but I still have the OEM bars. $7000 Bike is located in Spotsylvania VA Was serviced and got new tires installed last year. If interested send me a PM will get you contact info.

at idle the fan will draw more current that stator produces fans aren't made to run all the time, hook up a simple on/off switch to handlebar if you are worried about temps as opposed to leaving it on.. take it too a radiator shot to be drilled and fitted with the correct female fitting to work properly..

with some little know how of ebay shopping and turning wrenches it can all be done. Pretty sure if you ran into any issues a message to Mike could probably resolve it as well.. He did an awesome write up

If you have the funds and time to source the parts to do a full ZXX swap/conversion out front and back I would say yes. Gaining better suspension and braking ability really makes the XX keep up with the modern times. Her lines are timeless but her technology is 20yrs old

can't believe these are still up for sale I am resisting the urge

Rode ice picks bike for about an hour heading home from NeXXt. That bike is nicely set up Suspension is great, brakes are great. Throw in his DM bars and whatever seat he has and you have a mile munching machine.

Proportion control is the technical term.

Never had that happen so cant really say. Could possibly just be enough fluid to activate it and not enough to hold it. Recently did a brake flush on my XX after noticing a slight mushy feel. Normally do it every couple years. I must have pumped a quart of fluid through the entire system. Then like magic it burped out a string of small bubbles. It can be a pain sometimes. Thought about getting a mighty vac to help speed things up.

If you dont see fluid dripping anywhere then you got air trapped.. look under your seat, probably take off tail section to make it easier as well. Your resivour is there and you will see a hose going into the master cylinder. Air can get trapped at the top hose easily.. unbolt it and lay or turn it to make the trapped air move down the system. Recommend using the tubing and bottle method on the bleeder screw to assist. Can also use a ziptie on front left to activate the LBS system to direct fluid towards the back when applying the front brake lever as well. (Nevermind see your reply now) pump lever and with fluid in bottle it will prevent air getting sucked back in.. will just have to keep fluid going into system till trapped air is removed.

Where does he live? Wonder if someone lives close by...

What about the fairing bolts?

Let me know what you need for the seat and tool strap. (thought about doing a projector or LED style headlight and taillight but would rather the parts go to someone who may need them instead of me cutting them up as a project) I am cool with paypal, cash, hugs, beer ect ect can pick up at racerXX

Curiosity about Electrical mainly computer (have a pc?) Headlight housing, taillight Seat Tool strap Stock or aftermarket header? Stock pegs or rearsets? Bedliner really? Sounds like something i would do... i just did my brand new truck tool boxes.. i wanted black and tough, they only came in polished alum.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.forrex.org/sites/default/files/publications/articles/streamline_vol2_no3_art7.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjloeaemNzRAhVC2mMKHaxaAYAQFgg2MAE&usg=AFQjCNHc2hGhQLug2b7ePCoAGwJlQPmSzQ&sig2=gq1ETpUWud3UUz9bFmGTiQ This is what i was talking about.. We normally use equipment to move our boulders but sometimes you must use a crane. Had an order once for 1000 boulders at 6 to 8 tons each...

Its my company truck and for some reason they want all company vehicles that go on mine property to have flashing lights to not get ran over or something. Simple hiding in grill and outback somewhere would be good..

Got a solder sucker from online years ago, because radio shack near me didnt have them. The vehicle is a 2016 F150. Wont be doing the headlights but want strobing lights (white and yellow LED). Looked at some of those roof units, but truck is aluminum so magnets wont work and dont want to fool with suction cup.. just want it integrated and easy on and off.

Yep, was the 2nd stop i made at the local radio shack. Some 15yr old looki g chick on her phone and when i said i needed a 12v 30amp relay the deer in the headlights look i recieved triggered the smartass area of my brain and told her i would look and let her know when i need some AA batteries That 5pin info is good to know.. will be handy to have a couple spares. Might have to get help on wig wag lights at my company wants us to get flashing lights for on site use. No wires showing, no cigarette lighter plug in types either. Integrated in the truck lights with a clean install and dash button install.. Thanks again for the help.. This place is awesome

Thanks for the info.. i looked at the 5 pin relays as well thinking they might work as well maybe but didnt know for sure. Reading more about the differences between the diodes and resistors having pros and cons i didnt want to chance killing my ecu with the wrong one.. I went to advance, radioshack, napa, auto zone and o'reillys in search.. all looked puzzled and 2 googled it and found them online at the same places i did for $30 each. http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html If you go there and scroll to the bottom there is a good explanation of the different relay types. I kept reading about making sure to use the correct one over and over on the triumph boards. Never knew of the electrical spikes occuring at the coils when the circuits open back up and cut power to the accessories.

I thought so also till i looked into it more Since an inductor (the relay coil) cannot change it's current instantly, the flyback diode provides a path for the current when the coil is switched off. Otherwise, a voltage spike will occur causing arcing on switch contacts or possibly destroying switching transistors.

Goes to the fan on my triumph, ecu sends the signal to turn on so thats the big reason for the diode. It wasnt coming on and after running a test through TuneEcu I have the relay energizing but no fan. After taking the case off I could see why.. was super crusty inside, even cleaning it didnt help as it was so bad. I did look up some basic 4 pin relays where i can get 10 for $15. A 100 of the diodes that are used are $4 Make them myself and have plenty of spares. Simple enough to do, just make sure the diode is going the right direction. Solder, snip excess, put case back on. Do use those 5 pin relays as well on the bike.

Thanks Jon, Hopefully they do and doesnt cost $30 thats insane for a simple relay with a snubber diode. I want to solve this issue and move on to the next.

I am looking for a normally open 4 pin relay 12v 30amp with a diode. Looking online for the part needed its roughly $30 from bike bandit and other sites. Its just a simple Hella relay and common on many bikes and autos Would this be something easy enough to get at napa, auto zone or advance? Their websites suck, and would like to have it to work on bike this weekend.

Rotella T6

Get a shovel and dig a pit, drive over it and no worries.. Cheap, good exercise