jon haney

I sure wish I could play "Guess the Blackbird part", but I can't view the pictures here at work. Damn IT Nazis! If I remember tonight when I get home, I'll look at it and let you know my opinion. I don't think there is one single part outside of the engine that I haven't "felt up" at least once.

The mounting is the same on both ends, so I don't see why you couldn't mount it upside down. Just make sure you have clearance for any possible movement within your linkage.

I'm no expert on this but the Chatterbox units works pretty well for this. Spec them pretty carefully to ensure headset and cord compatibility. Consider whether you want helmet speakers or ear plug speakers. The music input may have to be a wired connection unless you are a Bluetooth guru. You can spend a lot or a little. I have the GMRS X1 unit because it allows intercom mode and bike to bike communication. You will get lots of opinions on this, most more informed than mine, and you can spend a lot of dough. Just keep it simple. Good luck. Check it out This unit doesn't let use ear plug speakers does it? I had a cheap Chatterbox years ago and it last about 5 days until it raind....What the hell. Surely they fixed this problem...? I don't know about fixed, but it is better. I have a GMRS and the couple of times I got caught in the rain, it lasted about 30 minutes before it quit working. After it dried out, worked just like normal. Now I just take it off of the helmet and put it in my tank bag when it starts to rain.

I just took the screws out and removed the reed valves. Problem solved.

Hopefully the previous owner changed the coolant and put in new clutch and brake fluid at least once. Definitely do these. If the clutch plates are original, I would check them for wear. Also might want to have a compression check done. If the compression is a little low, do a leak-down test. Valve seats are like bearings. When they start to go bad, they get real bad, real fast. A simple valve job is a lot cheaper than new valves and seats.

The only knowledge I can share is that fiberglass resin is flammable. That's why you don't see any mufflers made from it. :icon_nono:

Clearance check??????????????? 57 thousand miles and NOW YA TELL ME!

Organ, we're talking about that dark brown stuff inside the little rectangular boxes on your handle bars. It helps you stop. And BTW, it's supposed to be about the color of light beer, not Guiness.

You don't have to pitch the oil. Just drain it into a clean pan, and then pour it back in after you put the new filter on.

You can lose a good 10-15 lbs with after-market wheels plus the bike will turn easier, handle better, and accelerate a little harder. There is also: Custom aluminum sub-frame, titanium bolt kit, after-market body work....... All it takes is lots of money.

Don't be a tight-ass Hobie. We all know you'll go all the way for that shock.

The instructions should tell you how to arrange the shims based on your weight and the type of riding you want to do. I don't think the type of fork oil makes that much difference. Others on here might disagree. The weight of the oil is more important IMO. I started with 5 weight, but thought it was a little too light for track days. I ended up mixing a 5 weight with a 10 weight, and that seemed about perfect for my 200 lbs.

I know of only one fix for the clutch rattle: Remove mufflers.

I must say the slickest thing I have seen is Josh and Walt changing Josh's rear tire in my basement. Asks if I have any Windex, sure do. Sprays Windex on the tire and basically manhandles the tire onto the rim with out really using the spoons. :icon_thumbsup: :icon_clap: I did that with the last rear tire change on my aftermarket rim. I was so surprised that I double-checked the tire to make sure it was the right diameter. Apparently my Dy-mag wheel has a deeper rim that allows the tire to go on much easier. If you have the means, I highly recommend them. I hope the front works the same way. :icon_pray:

Have you looked at the handle-bars? I had the same perception problem when I had Heli-bars. When I changed to VFR bars, the problem/feeling went away. Stock bars (and VFR bars) have a locater "nub" on the clamp ring, but there is still a little play. Try adjusting that and see if it's enough to at least make you feel better.

Probably not. If I put a remanufactured engine in the truck, I'd have ~ $2200 in it. For that much, I could probably buy a running 97 F150. So if I do this, I'd get a used engine, or rebuild it myself. Either way is several weekends of work and several hundred dollars.. Hmmmm....... I usually ask myself the question: "Do I have the time for another PROJECT?" If you can't answer a definite "NO", then go for it. At least your guaranteed an educational experience. Hopefully a good one. :icon_pray:

You said there is a hole in one of the cylinders. That would definitely require a whole new block. If you meant there is a hole in one of the pistons, then I would rebuild it yourself. You may only have to replace the one piston and then hone the cylinders and re-ring all the pistons. Of course that is a "best case" scenario. My Brother-in-law had almost the exact same truck except for XLT package. He sold it with over 100K and never said he had any engine problems. BTW the 4.2L is only 15 HP down from the 4.8L V-8. It as long as you don't pull a big trailer, it will be fine. My dad still has 97 with a V-8 and auto trans and has had no issues.

After I cross the finish line, I still use the front brake to slow down, but I apply it gently. The problem I have is no "brake feel" or feed-back with the front end strapped down. I didn't even know I had locked the front wheel until the bike started leaning to the left.

I tried the single caliper also on my dragbike and had the same opinion you have. It sucked. Went back to four pistons, and it's fine. Once I even locked the front wheel briefly at 135 MPH. Luckily, I got off the lever in time to save it. Word of advice for bracket racing: If you think your going too fast at the end, USE THE REAR BRAKE ONLY.

The glass is 50% larger than necessary, and the added cost will be deducted from your paycheck. Wouldn't that make the glass 2/3 full? Not if you're using "Manager Math". LOL!

+1 I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks most emission control crap only fools the sniffers.

The glass is 50% larger than necessary, and the added cost will be deducted from your paycheck. Wouldn't that make the glass 2/3 full?

I don't know what you're talk'n about. I bought the bike that way! :icon_shhh: :icon_shifty:

Break the top off, then it'll be completely full. That's a good idea, but can you do it with out spilling any? :icon_think:

You're one of those "glass is half-empty" kind of guys, arn't you?