jon haney

138 RWHP with the same set-up. No doubt a PC would give me a couple more. Or better yet, I could just use the dyno that INDYERIKXX used.

There you have it folks! Honda OEM stuff is the best and if you don't have a garage, get a real good bike cover.

Since I've never had an electrical issue with any bike I have ever owned, I would have to say that the OEM stuff is pretty good. The most miles I ever put on a bike was 40K on a 81 Yamaha 650 Maxim. I'm sure I will surpass that with my BB. 3 sure-fire ways to make electrical stuff last longer: 1. Ride in the rain as little as possible. 2. Stay away from high-pressure car washes. 3. Store your bike in a garage, preferably insulated.

I was wondering if you had the cables switched, but I didn't want to insult your intelligence if I was wrong. You're right about the throttle grip being a bigger PITA. The only way I'm messing with that end again is if it breaks. Glad you got it figured out.

When I get home I'm going to cut the old oil filter in half and see if I can find any shavings. Can the oil pan be dropped without too much trouble? Yes, but I'd pull the motor anyway. It has some serious issues.

Mr. Badexample has the right idea. I used a piece of wood to hold open the throttle plates. Even though it rotates the hole farther down, it's still easier because it almost eliminates having to "loop" the cable. I just positioned the cable with one hand and pushed the end of the cable into the hole with a flat-blade screw driver. Don't worry, you'll figure it out.

Any news yet?

+1

I've never ridden a 97 or 98 model, but I'm told the clutch engagement is much smoother at higher RPM's because of the judder spring. If I try to launch my 99 at anything higher than 4k, she bucks like a bronco. If you like to launch hard, don't take it out. I had the same situation with the shuddering on my old 83' CB1100F. It was a glazing issue with the steels/clutches. Even if you replaced your peices with OEM stuff, you would solve your issue. BTW, with all stock internals in my 01' , I have launched as high as 7500 rpm with no shudder at all. My experience was not really a shudder. "Grabby" is probably a better description. All I know is that the "clutch cushion" mod I got from Brock Davidson made it feel more like the cable-operated clutch on my old Katana 1100. Easy modulation and baby smooth at any RPM.

It's easy to over-oil if your using the squirt bottle instead of the spray. Spray can is the only way to go in my opinion.

Keep us posted. I was just getting ready to go to Paypal. Thanks for the warning.

I've never ridden a 97 or 98 model, but I'm told the clutch engagement is much smoother at higher RPM's because of the judder spring. If I try to launch my 99 at anything higher than 4k, she bucks like a bronco. If you like to launch hard, don't take it out.

You gotta use your "Big Boy" muscles. Or so I'm told.

Please don't do both at the same time. :icon_snooty:

I like the rafter idea because its more stable than the "jack under the oil pan". What I have been doing is putting the bike on the center stand, pulling the seat off, and then putting a bar between the back of the tail section frame(where the seat lock is) and the ceiling of my garage, making sure I'm very close to one of the rafter boards. The bar I'm using is one of those things with the rubber pads on each end people can use in the bed of a truck to keep cargo from sliding around. It's like a turn-buckle in reverse and adjusts from about 5-7 feet. You could use a 2X4 cut to the right length and just wedge it in.

YEP.

BUMP.

If you have a used 4 into 1 system that you don't like or want to replace due to damage on the muffler can, I'm interested. Don't care what brand. I need the header to be undamaged i.e. no big dents. I'm putting an O2 sensor on my drag bike and there is not a good place to put it on the stock header. PM me if you have something.

Two limited edition Ducs, an SV650, and a Blackbird? This must be the kind of envy my mother warned me about! Where exactly do you live? :icon_biggrin:

I too went the Gold Valve route and am very pleased with the results. If you really want to "hang with the guys out west", a track school is the best way to improve your skills. Star Racing's school is about the same money as your fork rebuild. Some tracks have their own schools for less money, but I don't think you'll get as much out of them.

We're talking about the same thing, just different terminology, I guess. Anyway, it's all done. I removed the star on the end of the drum, pryed the arm back with a screw driver, and then put the star back on. I may have been a little over cautious, but it seemed a lot easier that way and I didn't have to use my "Big Boy" muscles. Thanks for the responses guys. P.S. That is a nice bunch of bikes you have CBRBEAR. What the heck is a PS1000LE?

Just to the left of the stud where the detent arm bolts on, there is a flat spot molded into the engine cases where the other end (the end without the hook) of the spring rests to keep it from turning. I guess you could call it a "spring stop". When I hook the spring onto the detent arm, it just barely catches this flat spot. When I started prying with a screw driver, it slipped off this flat spot allowing the spring to rotate freely around the stud. I'm going to try it again tonight and see what happens.

I tried that once, but the spring slipped out of the stop on the engine case. I'll screw the bolt in a little farther and see if that helps. Thanks.

Is there a special tool or technique for re-installing the detent arm? That spring is a real bitch.

Any motorcycle magazine that covers sport-bikes usually addresses this issue at least once a year, either in a writer's column or in response to a letter. This thread already covers one of the main reasons (exhaust heat). Space for a big air-box and shorter wheelbase are a couple of other reasons.