jon haney

Only one seal went out this time and it's been about 16 months and 7000 miles. I think the fork oil I've been using is the problem. It's not very slick and may be eating on the seals. Going to use Motorex this time. Yes, I do wheelies, but rarely does it ever come down hard. Maybe once or twice a year I'll miss second gear. Fork tubes are as smooth as glass. My BB drag bike still has the factory original seals, bushings and oil, and nary a leak. I don't understand it either. :icon_wall: :icon_wall: :icon_wall: The real "kick in the nuts" is that I can't seem to find the original good slider from last year. I find it hard to believe that I would through away (recycle) a good part, but of course "No good deed goes unpunished".

I forgot about heating it. I will try that. What is a PB blaster?

I just tried 120 psi of air into the cartridge holder bolt in hopes of at least blowing the bad seal out. No go. Got a nice loud whistle. :icon_wall: :icon_wall:

Last yeat I had problems getting a fork apart to fix a leaky fork seal. Ended up cutting the slider open with a die grinder to get it apart. The two bushings had wedged one inside the other when I tried to "bang out" the seal. (Yes, I did remove the retainer ring first.) Stan hooked me up with a couple of sliders that looked as good as new. I put new bushings and seals in both sides. It was the right leg that gave me the problem the first time. This time, the left side. I'm beginning to think that Amsoil "Shock Therapy" Oil is CRAP. Anyway.....It's happening again. Has anyone ever had this problem and what did you do? If I have to buy another slider, I may sell the bike. :icon_wall: (Please, no low-ball offers. I'm too pissed for humor right now.)

I don't think I have a clear picture of what happened there, but if you're looking for a rear wheel, I have one with the sprocket carrier and cush-drive rubbers that I will sell for $75. The finish has a few minor scraches, but nothing that couldn't be sanded and repainted or powder-coated. Let me know if you want it.

Stan, that firing order doesn't sound quite right for an inline 4. Think about it. It would have to be 1-3-4-2 or 1-2-4-3. I thought cam sprocket bolts were a few degrees from being 180 apart so that they would only go on one way? I guess you could put them on inside-out. Is that possible?

It shouldn't make any difference as that is just the locknut onto the damper tube which moves up and down anyway +1

You can get more simple than the jack stand method. I just put the whole wheel & tire back on the bike (minus the spacers & axle nut) and then position it so that it spins freely. You don't even have to remove all the brake calipers. Just spread the brake pads a little. (Yes, I know you have to remove the right front to get the wheel off.) They spin so easy that I have had several times where even an 1/8 ounce made a difference.

I do my own with spoons, soapy water, and rim savers, but I usually don't use the stand I made (cause it's crap). A rubber mat is all I need. I have used the No-Mar and think it's great, but I wouldn't spend the money for one unless I could get a couple of friends to help with the bill. My friend that has one is almost 20 miles away. :icon_wall: I can tell you this: Sport tires go on a whole lot easier than touring tires.

If you're looking for a stock replacement, I have one I'll sell you for $50. It has about 10K miles on it, is perfectly straight, and has good bearings. If you're thinking after-market, you have a lot of research to do. There are lots of good choices, but it hard to go wrong with Dymag.

+1

Did you also need to install a power commander ?? It doesn't hurt anything if you don't, but if you want to squeak out every last HP, put one on. For the record, I don't have one on mine.

I have Roadsmarts on mine and like them so far. Good grip and decent feedback, but not quite as good as the feedback from the Qualifier. The rear appears that it will last about 2.5 times longer than the Qualifier. Way too early to tell on the front.

+1 Before you go tearing into the stator, unplug it from the R/R and check for A/C voltage (about 50) between any two of the three wires (three checks). Perform this test with the bike running and rev it to about 4-5000 rpm. If you don't get around 50 volts on all three tests, stator is bad. What if it reads closer to 60? PERFECT! Mike If your getting that much voltage you may need to pack some snow into the fins of the R/R for extra cooling. You have plenty of that stuff up there, right? You're good. New R/R should fix the problem.

I have a Yosh 4-2-1 that I have had on both of my Birds. About 45K total miles and it still sounds good. Quiet when you want it to be, and sweet music on top. The carbon fiber is a little faded and the stainless is a little yellow, but not that bad for its age. I think it has been the best value and a center-stand stop is included.

15K is about what I get out of a chain before I start seeing some tight links. Lots of lubrication is the key to long chain life, but I hate the mess. I use chain wax about a third of the time and occasionally re-charge it with some WD-40. The chain wax will build up over time and sling little wax balls all over everything. They are very hard to clean off. The re-charging is always done after a ride on a hot chain. Almost no fly-off if you let it set over-night.

+1 Before you go tearing into the stator, unplug it from the R/R and check for A/C voltage (about 50) between any two of the three wires (three checks). Perform this test with the bike running and rev it to about 4-5000 rpm. If you don't get around 50 volts on all three tests, stator is bad.

Assuming the battery is still good and fully charged, check that the battery connections are tight and not corroded. Also check the ground connection just to the left of where the gas tank bolts on for any similar conditions. If the FI light still comes on, check the fault codes.

+1

Definitely, put in new inner and outer fork bushings. They aren't that expensive and you're already in there. If you let them get too worn, you may have difficultly getting the forks apart. As in, they won't come apart. Unless you destroy the lower tubes. If you search "fork lowers", you might find my old thread on this.

Don't know for sure, but I bet it's just a casting number that the factory uses.

my 01 r/r just did that, no burnt/discolored anything. But all the tests in the manual pointed to the r/r. I got one off ebay for $40. There's an 2001 R1 r/r on ebay now for $49 plus shipping. What year is yours good luck I have a 99. The 01 won't work without some wiring mods. I think I'm going to look into the R1 conversion.

Thanks guys for the info. Can the R/R go bad with out showing any external signs? There are no burnt or dis-colored wires or connectors, and no flickering or dimming of any lights. Just a loss of voltage in the battery. :icon_think:

I am so A.D.D. It's not the Stator. Got 50 volts on all three at 4K RPM. I guess it is the R/R. Anybody got one they would like to sell?

Bike seemed to labor a bit starting this morning. Then when I went to lunch, it labored a little more. After lunch, had to push start it. Went straight home and put it on the charger. Took truck to work. When I got home battery had 12.5 volts. Started bike. Even at 5000 RPM, voltage only went to 12.8 max. My question is: If I caught this early, can/should I just replace the stator? I have a 99 with finned R/R. I have not torn it apart yet to see if the connectors are fried. I also have not done the loom fix either if that matters.