tomek

New name for electrx. same company. Hey those prices are quite reasonable. no reason not to carry a spare r/r in the toolkit.... Thanks for info,looks like I`ll go with O.E.M.."my" place, mrcycles.com has them for 103 and 157 $. BTW that is good place to shop,I`ve ordered yammie pparts from them couple times.

As a matter of fact I had similar sympthoms on my 99 xx year or two ago,bike would die on me with no reason whatsoever.Would restart almost rightaway. That deal with gauges,similar,they would read 0 till I hit the bump. I`m positive it is not regulator,stator problem,most likely main harness related.There was small number of XX efected by that. I never really investigated that,it just went away on its own. I`ll right I`ll be honest ,I told the bike I would sell her,apparently it worked.

Sweeeeeeet. :icon_clap:

My XX gets close to 80k miles,with couple long West coast summer trips on the horizon I pretty much desided to carry spare stator/voltage regulator. I would like to know if any of aftermarket parts fit right in without drama ( like holes in wrong places,wires too short,long) and actually are better then O.E.M.That removes R1 regulator from the list. Dennis Kirk has ElectroSport "Industry Best One Year Warranty" parts for 130 and 100 $ Anyone used those ? Who much O.E.M. parts cost ?

If area is not too big you could try to fix it without buffer,but is not easy. There are different products for "fresh" paint and when restoring old,tired one. You would have to use finer paper then 1000 as a next step,I believe they go all the way to 4000. You should use them in steps,1000.then 1500,2000,etc.Finer the last wet sand the better,next steps will go easier. After wet sanding rubbing compound would be next,I`m familiar with 3M Perfect-It III line,they are excellent but not inexpensive.Ther will be some swirl marks left after this step-enter swirl mark remover from Perfect-It III line. You could use some hand glaze as a final step,but many paint makes do not recommend waxing for first couple of mounts. Paint finishing products work as a system,have to be used in steps,you can`t just throw various polishers,swirl removers,plastic cleaners,etc at random order and expect good result But honestly,unless it is really small panel you won`t do quality job without buffer,there has to be some heat generated,you need different pads for each step,etc ,$$$. BTW there is a risk of "burning " a fresh paint. Unless you plan on doing more of that in the future,let pros do it.

Ti Force futures stepped header and as such has a distinct performance advantage.It provides boost over wider rpm range compared to conventional header.Bigger headpipes will boost power in higher rev range,smaller in lower rev range.With stepped header you get the best of both worlds. If you consider it is made from titanium the price is not so bad,actually it is cheap,only 1100`s . One more think,titanium header will give more power then identical otherwise stainless steel unit,theory is that retains heat and kinematic energy of exhaust gases better.It is well proven fact.You could get the same result by wrapping ss pipe in heat,er,, wrap. I have Yoshimura 4-2-1 that is as old as my bike,99,nice quality and sound ( quiet when you putz around,but gets loud when you get on it ),served me well,but I would go with Ti Force now.

There are some wheel bearings on ebay,they like 20 bucks for set ot 5,both ends. My XX is nearing 80 K mark,with 2 west coast trips on the horizon in the summer,I like the idea of replacing them as a preventive maintenance during the next tire change. But with price so low it might be really cheap worthless shit. Has anyone tried those? What are the standard numbers for XX bearings,like 6xxx,etc?

I'm such a lightweight that the loaded sag is only 1mm more than the static sag on the forks. What,do you weight 10 pounds ? That is due to the friction in the forks,to get correct sag you need to push on the fork and slowly release.Measure the sag.Lift the front of the bike inch or two,slowly release,measure the sag..Add both numbers and divide by 2.That is your properly measured sag. You gonna need help to get that right with you,rider on board.There is no way the difference will be 1mm unless you have some surplas suspension parts from WW II german Tiger tank. BTW,stock spring is 0.95,if you are lightweight it should work perfectly. I don`t think front end is undersprung for normal people.The problem is that so many guys here in U.S. dine in Burger King,McD`s etc, and they are "little" overweight,so the whole fad started about XX being undersprung in the front. Valving and rear shock it is whole other issue. As far as the peg feelers,they are like 3 inches long,right,just remove them,or hung off the seat,but if you weight 10 ponds it won`t make any difference anyway

Lottsa people went insane,lost all the remaining hair,grey,,etc trying to tune( jet) homemade ram air systems.Don`t do it.

Just one word of caution.I guess not all springs have been created equal. If you talk to traxxion they are gonna tell you that race tech springs are softer then stated ( just typical badmouthing of competitor?,guess not they sell some of race tech products) I had 95 race tech springs on my old track bike,newer has traxxion 95 springs,traxxion is stiffer for sure.

It is my old/new car.It has not been active for last 4 years,but I pretty much done restoring/rebuilding the damn think. Mods?,mild, sparco core bar and plate intercooler, front mount,3 inch racing beat turboback exhaust,T04b hybrid turbo, hks electronics-fcon and electronic boost controler.Should make 280-300 crank hp.But I`m not really after hp,etc.They are very nice cars to drive and handle oh so well.I like rx7 turbos for their balance of performance, handling and comfort. I also upgraded shocks and springs.

Read the whole article,they used Factory dyno,not Dynojet,they read lower,relax.

1991

I need some advice on car battery.Car in question is Rx7 turbo,in other words,engine bay is hot like a hell.I need something good.In the past I had battery failures on this car due to the heat in the middle of the summer. And I will not go the the Walmart.

There might be a rusty,discolored, spot on the rotor that will give stonger ( or weaker ?) "bite" to the brake pads.I would lightly wet sand rotors with,let`s say 220 (?) and just see what happens.You are well within service limit ( 0.3 mm or 0.012 ). Brake pads do transfer some material to the rotor surface, so if bike was sitting for years without movement,with rust,moisture,but It is just someting that I came up right now,don`t really know.

1st to 2nd clunk=basically you don`t know how to shift gears. That is all. Many riders fail to understand that motorcycles don`t have synchros,just dogs.You are doing the gearbox any favor by slow shifts. Anything that you learned from cars with stick does not apply to motorcycles or semis.

Just make sure it is dyno oil,synthetic may void tire warranty. WD or nothing will work better then oil,no sliding takes place in them,just rolling,you don`t need lubricant . They will not spin as freely when treated with oil.

You could use regular bearings for wheel balancer.Just pullout dust seals,wash out the grease with something like WD 40 and ,,Bingo !! Your low friction,el cheapo, balancer bearings are ready.You may want to lubricate them with Wd40 from time to time.

You call THAT an oil leak?? :shock: :shock: If you were a H-D owner you would not even take a notice of that.

That LM-1 is nice piece,no doubt.Anyway I hope riding season starts soon,otherwise I`ll be spending some crazy money on car projects,rotaries can propel some crazy sized turbos,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I`ve found that on rx7 forum.I guess it may interest some guys here. 299 $ http://www.ngksparkplugs.com//products/air...9000&country=US

Guys,you are trying to reinvent the wheel.Systems that use scavenging in exhaust to create negative pressure has been known for years.Obviously pick up point have to be such that oil from crankcase will not find its way into exhaust header.Just don`t do it on early zuki tls 1000,bike has been known for drawing oil into airbox under combat conditions. DavesXX01, Yes you can put one way valve between crankcase and airbox,I had one on my 99 r1,cut the oil consumtion in half on that bike and I could swear it gain couple hp on topend..Funny,you could not drain oil without removing filler cup,crancase was under vacum. Sold the bike kept the valve ,now it is on 97 YZF 1041. Here is the link www.krankvent.com

PAIR opens on decel in order to burn that unburned fuel.This way the emissions are better,HC I think.EPA does not care about backfire. I recently reconected my PAIR system and sure enough I got some burbling and poping from the pipe.It did not do that without Pair. As far as marring PAIR with crankcase venting,if lines and ports are big enough it should work.There are aftermarked systems that create negative pressure in crankcase using scavenging in exhaust system,basically big reed valve connecting headers with crankcase.Lower the pressure in crankcas the better,bigger hp. There is couple factors,lower aerodynamic drag of spinning crankshaft and conrads,less oil from oilpan being picked and ending up on outside crank surface creating power loss and better sealing of piston rings( rings seal by pressure difference above and below them.(BTW that is why you see those deep sumps on never supersport bikes,or dry sumps in pure race engines where room is not a problem).If you care about max hp on wet sump engine ,oil level should be as low as you can get away without starving oil pump. The way the crankcase is vented on ramaired XX is just plain stupid as far as power is concerned.In high speed run there is positive pressure in airbox and airbox is connected with crankcase via hose ,so there is additional pressure there due to ramair effect.But it is illegal to vent crankcase into atmosphere ,so Honda did what they did. BTW there is another trick.You can reconnect air pump( XX does not have one ) so instead of pumping air into exhaust system it sucks blowby from crankcase. There is a lot of tricks like this that tuners use to build race engins.2 hp here ,3 hp there ,0w20 oil,loose bearings here are there, etc,single mod does not seems to be much,but if you add up all of that end result is nice,powefull engine.