tomek

Not all of that Hylomar is as good as the "old" one that was imported or made under the license by Permatex,many of them suck,very difficult to spread. Good stuff. http://atkinsrotary.com/store/catalog/Hylomar-p-16862.html Not so good from this guys,it pretty much sucked. http://www.mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm

"Speaking of that... I wish somebody would point to some examples or explain why setting up unbalanced works, other than their opinion, I'd love to read it." Depends on the definition of "balance".Balance of suspension`s rebound and compression action ? Yea, they should be balanced. Balance of "sags" is not that important,during performance cornering bike is never really at steady speed.Of course there are some exceptions to this rule,like Carousel at Road America but 90% of the time you are either accelerating or braking or just slowing down by rolling off the throttle. So you set it up for that 90% and deal with the remaining 10% since set upset is the compromise anyway. Now,let`s tackle negative travel springs in modern forks and why old school of setting the sag to 30-35 mm for the track usage is totally wrong in this case.

Leave hoses on but unbolt radiator hangers and let it rest,it may or may hit front tire, I don`t remember. You can always place piece of cardboard,etc to protect the front of the rad and the mud flap. Try to fit cover without gasket just for the practice porpoises,IIRC there is just one certain way of doing that.You have to figure it out how to do it without hitting anything. You do have airbox and throttle bodies removed,right? When you are ready for the final assembly clean the groves in the valve cover with carb or brake cleaner,gasket itself needs to be cleaned too but with something milder like dishwasher.Don`t use anything that can Fubar the rubber. Lay 1/8 inch wide stripe of high temp silicone or Hylomar ( unfortunately it is not easily available any more) on the sealing surface of the cover.Flip it upside down of course.Place the gasket in the grove nice and tight.If you are using silicone wait 15-20 minutes so it will get some grip. Go from there.

It is all academic discussion. Race Tech springs are black in colour,I don`t think he would want them anyway. Stock front springs are almost of correct rate for that weight range,you can`t take those calculators too seriously. 1.2 would be waaaaaaaaaay too stiff.

There is no "original settings",the tensioner is self adjusting. There is absolutly no need to remove it,or even to look at that when checking out the valve clearance.Absolutly unnesessary work.

Sorry, but that is rather unacceptable way of thinking.How about couple of rules of thermodynamics ?. Temperature of the gas increases when is compressed,so real pressure when cranking is higher then what would you get from simply comparing geometry,plus there is influence of intake valve closing past BDC. I`m looking at R1 specs,12.4 CR,fairly long duration cams and standard cranking pressure is 210 psi. You would get "your" numbers if the gas,air in this case, could be cooled down on the compression stroke so there would be no temp increase,but in reality it does not work like that.

Deterioration of suspension components is gradual process,you don`t really feel them going bad unless,of course,the seal gets blown,ect. Simple clean up of fork components followed by fresh,high quality oil produces amazingly good results.Same with shock. Your shock at 70 k miles is a trashed.Pure and simple.

I believe that. At a NHRA race not too long ago, a funny car broke a header at the block and the force pushing down almost turned the car over. Never would have thought. That is pretty much why Senna crashed and consequently died at Imola,at least according to Schumacher who was right behind him when it happened. Back in that era exhaust on F1 car was part of downforce generating package.His car got slightly bend out of shape and Senna lifted the throttle causing further loss of traction.

All of them with the exception for turbocharged P38,P47 and some US bombers were supercharged via centrifugal blowers.Engines like that does not really depend on exhaust to start intake process. Second,aero engine work in fairly narrow rpm range plus there was simply no space for merging exhaust header. Now,those little stubs provided additional trust,it is estimated that in typical V12 powwered fighter it was equal to about 60-70 hp at 400 mph.

You are not alone.

Well,the world is full of self proclaimed internet experts.

Advantage of USD forks? Less fork flex,although that might be irrelevant for street riding, and less unsprung weight,relevant in any environment .

You need a -6AN hose and banjo hose end like this http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keywor...|Asc&page=7 You need to figure out,measure,etc size of the stock banjo bolts and go from there,it is possible to reuse them.

1.There is a fuel filter inside of the tank,at least on FI model. 2.Summit Racing has all the needed parts if you opt to go with pimped out line. Having said that it is possible to remove the hose from the OEM line and reuse fittings and bolts.You just need piece of high pressure FI hose of proper I.D. and couple clamps.Total cost about 8-10 bucks.

Elaborate...please. I've been doing it just because idling the bike for 15-20 minutes once a month is easier than "winterizing" it for storage....especially since "winter" is about 3 months you expect to not have any good riding weather and the rest is total luck. Possibly the worse you could do to your engine.

That is typical,I had two WM battery died like that before I knew better.They are not really maintenance free. Anything but Walmart`s NeverStart batteries. Search Big Crank.

I have purchased m-cycle spec oil but it wuz for the track bike,so it does not count. Maxima Ultra 0w/30,I shit you not,it does give noticeable top end powah increase.It brakes down incredibly fast,2-3 days on the track and shifting quality goes down to the toilet. On the other end my 160 K miles XX has never seen mcycle oil,and never will.

What are you trying to do ? Yes it is about 1.5 inches,but it not the simplest way to reassemble front end.There is no need to measure anything. Pu the fork into triple tree,but don`t tight up anything,put the clip-on on the fork,replace those little circlips on the top of the fork,let the fork slide down till it hits the circlip,torque the clip-on, now let the fork slide down till clip-on hits the upper triple tree.That is it.No need to measure anything as long as you want to ride stock front ride height. Don`t torque lower triple tree till you have the front wheel back on the bike. Put everything back on the bike but don`t tighten lower triple tree and axle holder on the left fork.Take the bike off the center stand.Pump the front suspension couple of time really good.Put the bike back on the center stand,torque lower triple tree and axle holder.

Yea,just make sure it is correct size,size of valve steam.IIRC there are two different sizes available from Motion PRO.I think mine was the smaller one. I`m ordering blank,extruded alu fuel rail,rather simple project,only two injectors.Summit Racing has everything that I need. I`ll just have to find cheap M14x1.5 tap.I`m gonna bolt M14 to -6AN adapters on the ends of the rail and go from there.I.D. of the rail is 1/2" You gotta give those O-rings some squish right ? I`ve heard 0.5 mm less is about right,of course I can always measure it on my old,steel rail.

Yea,it is simple water/meth system injecting into airstream. Now I realize I had a case of brain fade by bringing this up,it is totally irreverent to my gasoline fuel rail. I do know a thing or two about detonation in rotaries,it usually means quality 4-5 hours trying to yank out the engine from the car.And 1000-1200 $ in parts minimum.But you would still have to pry this car out of my dead,cold fingers.I absolutely love this car. BTW,my AEM FPR arrived today.

Well,I`m more worry about the inside,I do run auxiliary methanol/water injection. Skull,rx7 store only have rails for Bosch style injectors,bigger O.D. of fittings,maybe thicker O-rings would make it work but ,,,,. Redbird,I have really nice Violette Kandy that I`d like to try on something.Your new lid would make a perfect candidate.Keep in mind it is real candy,basically tinted clear.The fluer-de-lis would still be clearly visible under the paint. I`ve pretty much made up my mind and gonna order enough parts to go either way.If I`m not happy with welded up stock rail,etc I`ll just build custom aluminum rail.This way I won`t be without a cage for a week or so waiting for parts.I can always send back unused parts,Summit has good return policy.

Interesting,but I`m wonder whether it would work reliably in my case.The OEM regulator was unable to bleed enough fuel during low load conditions with high flow pump that I really should run.Now it gives all symptoms of going south anyway,it needs to be replaced. OEM part,regulator and rail is ridiculously expensive.I can get nice adjustable and rebuildable quality FPR plus custom fuel rail for less. My main concern with weld-on bung is long term reliability,the rail is zinc plated for a reason or am I too paranoid ?

Here is my dilemma,I need to install Adjustable FPR on my RX7. option A : Stock fpr is an integral part of secondary fuel rail (about 7/8 " OD),I would have to cut it off and weld in 6AN adapter.OF course it is gonna screw up zinc plating on the rail (possible problems with rust ?),and I only have flex welder.On the other hand it is easier, less expensive and faster. Option B: Buy bulk extruded alu.fuel rail and do whole nine yards,more work of course. BTW,what king of clearance for injector fittings ?,those are top fed 10 or 11 mm NDs. Whether I go with A or B Summit Racing has all the necessary firrings,adapters,hoses,etc. Elixxir ? cbrquad ? zeronetgain ?

Well,I`m not an HD apologist but without their money 1125r or XB series would have never happened . Buell fucked up with the styling of 1125 r and by rushing the machine into a market before it actually ready.Motor on 08 was "mehhh",I`m on the record saying "no way it has 130 rwhp",09 was better,stronger upper midrange and additional 300 rpm on topend. I guees it was too little too late. XB series were good looking bikes,1125 ? Not so much.

Here is what I`ve posted on STN but I guess most of the people there are armchair generals,maybe someone here will find it useful or interesting. http://www.sport-touring.net/forums/index....ic,57796.0.html I`m not sure whether the link is accessible without log in.