FiXXation

FWIW: The chain on my 2003, with about 7500 miles on it, rides to the left, with the right side links against the rear sprocket when up on the center stand. This is after the rear axle has been aligned with a high-dollar alignment tool (and very close on the factory alignment marks also). The chain seems to run quietly enough. The left/right outside wheel spacers are different outside diameters, so you would have some serious dust seal problems if you accidentally swapped those around. There are no ride-height spacers on my rear shock. My brother's 2000 model, with 6mm shock spacer and a lot more miles on it, has it's chain centered on the rear sprocket, when up on the center stand. His axle was aligned with the same tool. He is also running an aftermarket 16-tooth front sprocket. Is it possible that running the 6mm shock spacer moves the chain guide down out of the way and let's the chain run true to the rear sprocket, or that more miles will chew the chain guide out of the way?

At very low torque settings, my 'clicker' torque wrenches don't really click either; the handle sort of falls away fairly quietly. It might help to put the 8 ft-lb setting on a bolt that you know torques down tighter than that, and learn how it feels as you move the torque wrench settings from the low numbers up the scale. Once you feel it, you will recognize it on the smaller bolts.

For those tens of people interested in short rim valves or valve stems because you change your own tires, here is some comparison information for the two types of stems sold by Honda in the USA, purchased from Direct Line (Honda Online Parts). The cheaper alternative ($1), 42753-HF1-670, is the part number for 7/8" stems for ATVs. The more expensive alternative ($6), 42753-MT4-005, is the part number for, supposedly, Michelin 7/8" rim valves for the CBR1100XX. HF1-670 Description: Base markings: Schrader USA TR-412 Cap markings: Schrader USA (no gasket in cap; only formed plastic seat) Core: Appears to have a red polyurathane seal MT4-005 Description: Base markings: PACIFIC Japan 340 TR412 Cap markings: *Pacific* (rubber gasket in cap) Core: Appears to have a black neoprene seal The stem components were weighed with a digital powder scale and the valve core spring tension measured with a trigger scale: ____________HF1-670______MT4-005______Schrader_Measure Assembly____139.2________144.9_________________grains Cap___________6.1_________13.8________23.5_____grains Core_________16.9_________13.2_________________grains Body________116.2________117.9_________________grains Valve Open___10___________10___________________ounces Here is a picture of the two stems for visual comparison and reversed for confusion's sake: http://myweb.cableone.net/wrkeranen/Stems.jpg and a picture of the insides of the caps, MT4-005, HF1-670, including the bright metal, gasketed Schrader cap purchased from AutoZone: http://myweb.cableone.net/wrkeranen/Caps.jpg It would appear that Honda is substituting *Pacific* valve stems for the name brand tire mfg. stems listed in the Micorfiche for the CBR1100XX. The *Pacific* stems appear to be exactly the same as the OEM on my 2003 BBird. I am *NOT* a valve stem engineer, but it appears that the cheaper ATV alternative is a viable substitution with the addition of an aftermarket cap with a rubber gasket, although it may weigh just a little more. FYI: 437.5 grains = 1 ounce

Well, it would cost between $17 and $21 to get just two of the OEM 42753-MT4-005 valve stems shipped in to compare the differences and see if a Z-rating is visible. I'll chew on it for a while, I think.

It turns out that the 42753-HF1-670 valve stems are for Honda TRX-450 ATVs. http://www.worldofpowersports.com/oem/fich...0R-2004-EPC.pdf Sounds even more like the utility/industrial short stems that the NAPA vendor's tech wouldn't recommend for XX duty. I stopped by our local Michelin auto/truck tire dealer, and he said that he could order the TR-412 stems, but that all he used them on were lawn mowers and utility cart wheels, and "stuff like that". He was sure the caps would not have gaskets in them. Sounds like the aftermarket metal valve caps with the gaskets is a good idea.

It looks like the Schrader (who invented the first tire valve) company name may be another to have been sold to Tomkins plc. Who knows whether Schrader actually makes valve stems anymore or not? This may be turning into a Pub topic instead of Garage. Pete, thanks again for all your help.

That's interesting. Doing a Google search on "TR412 valve", I find many references to a short valve stem made in China, but none with Schrader. The Chinese stem is listed as being for autos, ATVs, industrial vehicles, motor cultivators, and motorcycles. I have a feeling that it is the same valve that the Napa vendor's technician said would not be approved for Z-rated motorcycle tires; but, if it's OK with Honda, it's OK with me.

I, too, got a recall notice from Honda. I took to one of the shops in Amarillo and talked to the head mechanic about it. He showed me the procedure and form he has to fill out as outlined in page 2 of the above thread. He said that he has tested quite a few already (many GoldWings) and found no leaks or failures so far, but that I would need to call ahead for a 2-3 hour appointment for them to work it in. I brought it home and put a padded jack under the left LBS-linked caliper with the bike on the side stand, front wheel to the right, to put weight on it; made a measurement of the link to the LBS rear master cylinder, and let it set jacked up for the prescribed 1/2 hour. There was no change in the measurement. The rear brake reservoir was still at the full mark, too, so there has been no leakage in 6200 miles on my '03. I'm no longer too concerned about it; just something to kind of keep an eye on in the future. I think I will just hang onto the Recall Notice in case I see any problems later on. That's just me.

Pete, I really appreciate you following through on this. An order has been placed with Honda Online Parts for five stems. Did the ones you get have a brand name on the cap? Again, the ones on my Bird from the factory say *Pacific*.

Pete, A Honda part number would be good. The OEM *Pacific* caps on the short rubber valve stems do have the rubber gasket in them, but a lot of the auto stems don't appear to. John, I've looked at our Napa, AutoZone, and O'Reilly Auto Parts with no luck. There's no PepBoys anywhere around here; Fort Worth is about the closest. I think there might be an AdvanceAutoParts in a town about 30 miles away. Their web site shows some possibilities for metal stems, but I would rather have the rubber, I think, if I can get them.

I hate to keep dragging this post back from the dead, but today I went to our only two area multi-line dealers (Honda + others) and a local bike repair shop and all they would show me in valve stems were the 1 3/16" not-short-enough auto style. Both the dealers' shop guys said they have to order the 7/8" stems from the factories and claimed to not have any available besides the longer auto stems. One mechanic said that's all he uses because his customers don't want to pay $8 for the shorter OEM ones. Pete, I'd have to say you're lucky to have such an accomodating dealer. I then spent an hour and a half at the local NAPA store where the counter people even called their valve stem vendors asking about the suitability of their short, 7/8" industrial valve stems for Z-rated motorcycle duty. The vendor's technician said their stems were NOT rated for high speed at all, but for slow heavy equipment. I would really rather have the OEM style (flexible) rubber valve stems as opposed to the flush-mount metal ones requiring an adapter. The more typical metal "racing" style stems all appear to be pretty close to the 1 3/16" length, although they usually just say "short" without giving any length dimensions, just the hole measurement. I have had absolutely no luck tracking down any 7/8" stems on the Internet, which I find a little hard to believe, even when I have the name of the company that sells the Honda factory their OEM ones (Pacific Industrial Co LTD). What do the guys use who are big on the track days and racing? It amazes me that you can buy racing tires everywhere, but no speed-rated valve stems anywhere. Why don't the motorcycle tire vendors sell the stems? Surely some of you guys who work in the business can enlighten me? It's like a cruel joke being played on us suckers that think we want to do our own tire work instead of take them to a dealer. There, I feel a little better.

Peter, Thanks for the bar code sticker info! Would you mind posting the DOT dates of manufacture on your Roads? I was wondering if Dennis Kirk is selling about the same generation tires as SWMotoTire. Thanks again.

I've noticed a couple more things about the Pilot Roads: There are no colored rings around the circumfrence of the tire over the tread and grooves as I have seen on other new tires. There is a small bar-code sticker in the bead sealing area. What is that all about? Is it OK take it off before I mount them? Might it possibly mark the light or heavy spot?

I can't say these SWMotoTire Roads are old, I was just wondering if a year+ old is typical for all vendors for what sounds like a popular tire. One of the tires had a Drag Specialties/Parts Unlimited sticker on it and the other had a sticker from a Fort Worth parts supplier. I wondered if SWMotoTire is gathering older stock from other vendors. I don't plan on letting them get weather cracked in any case.

When you get them, would you mind posting the DOT dates of manufacture? I just got a set of Roads from SWMotoTire today, and they were F:2404 and R:0304. I ordered on 2/21 at 11:03 PM CST and got them this afternoon, 2/24. Very good service for $227.90.

It has been pointed out that the microfiche says that the three valve stem part numbers are for Bridgestone, Dunlop, and Michelin, respectively. The caps on my '03 say *Pacific*, which probably means Pacific Industrial Company LTD of Japan. If the factory and the dealers are using $2 stems from some other manufacturer, then why wouldn't the $7 name-brand stems be antique from sitting on the shelves? Has anybody ordered any of these and noticed whether they are date stamped and sealed in air/ozone-tight baggies? Does anybody but me care? Dodge7d, do you have any trouble getting a typical, clunky air chuck to work on those flush-mount valve stems?

I'm getting ready to mount new tires for the first time, and started looking at the valve stems. Pete, you said you got some Honda ones for $2.50 in this post. Did you just pick some up at a local dealer? I just looked them up on RonAyers and ServiceHonda and they are priced more like $6.94. They list three different part numbers: 42753-ML7-003, 42753-ML7-004, and 42753-MT4-005, all priced about the same. Anyone have any idea what the differences are? Am I making this more difficult that it should be? Do standard automotive valve stems work for the potential forces imposed on them on the BBird? Do they use the same small auto base and are just shorter than typically found on auto wheels? Or, do they have stronger valve springs, better seats, and better cap seals to hold pressure under high centrifugal force? Thanks for any enlightenment.

The dealer where I bought my 2003 did the first (and his last) oil change and left the old filter gasket stuck to the block. It didn't leak at all at first, then started leaking after a hot-run/cool-down cycle. Removing the old gasket and cleaning everything up didn't stop it from leaking. Apparently the new gasket got warped or creased in the process. Took a new filter to fix.

Thanks for the changer and lube info and pictures. The way the MC adapter came assembled in the box, it looked like they intended for the fingers to reach out toward the outside of the rim, which would scar them up for sure, if there was enough lip to bite on (I don't think there is). The instructions that came with it were a waste of ink, IMHO. My rear OEM Dunlop 205 is down to the warning bars, so it won't be long. A welder/fabricator brother-in-law is working on a balancer rig for me. :grin: Link to the changer: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=42927

Santa brought me a Harbor Freight changer and MC adapter as well. Where did you place the adapter fingers on the rim? Did they scratch it up? Any pictures?

I've seen a dent in the tank of a 2000 Blackbird that was fixed by a paintless dent repair place that uses the metal picks. You can not tell it was ever dented. He had picks already shaped to work on motorcycle tanks. Results would depend on the skill of the repairman, though.

My 03 cold starts at about 1250 rpm, then settles back to the 1100-1050 rpm that I set with the adjustment knob after the temp gets up to about 125 degrees.

I felt the same way about my '03 Bird's throttle, but using the following technique suggested by rockmeupto125 will let you handle the throttle gently like the limp dick (must be, or everyone wouldn't be trying to sell theirs in 2011 to buy a new bike) that it is: Making sure to adjust the throttle cable down to the minimum spec seems to help some too.

2003 with 950 easy miles on original Dunlop 205's. tire height off the garage floor: 23.8 mm tread depth near center: 5 mm

Thanks for the insights and sorry for the unintentional hijack of the cruise control thread.