MaXX

You need a smaller penis and lower paying job to do that!!!! Fuck, my alter ego wrote that!!!! MaXX

This weekend, I got 208 miles out of a tank that took 5.4 gallons to fill up on my 1998. I was on the reserve light for 35 miles. Talk about shitting bricks. Over the past 47K miles, I have had this happen a couple of times (when I needed it too). I have only run out once and I was flogging the bike really hard for a full 120 miles and ran out with 154 miles on the trip O. MaXX

Don, here is the link to the thread. Mac http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...ght=turn+signal

Don, I did a fix Vern recommended and I bought the resistor from Radio Shack. I posted the wiring document before. I will try to find it and post it here again. I had to buy a different resistor because it was the only one Radio Shack had. If you want, I can show you what I did at NeXXt. Edt: Vern recommended a 6.5 - 7 Ohm/12 watt resistor. The closest thing I could find at Radio Shack was a 10 Ohm/10 Watt resistor. Works fine. The resistors do heat up if you leave the blinker on for an extended time, but I just hung them so they don't touch anything under the seat. I can email you the picture as it is better quality in full size, just PM me your email address. Mac

Dean, I had no problem welding a bung to your tank!!!! :hump: MaXX

Jer, all the feedback I have ever heard is the Akra 4-1 is the best "full" system you can go with. My V&H slip-ons were loud. I don't think I have ridden with anyone with the Yosh system on the XX. It is relatively tame on Travis's ZX-9 and he has the race can. Why don't you stay with the hi-mount play. Isn't that what you really want??? Something a little more original then some "also ran" system. More then one way to skin that cat (literally and figuratively). MaXX

I can neither confirm, nor deny what the shop said. Out of pure ignorance. Sorry. MaXX

Obby, a little history. In 1998, I had trouble with my CCT. Replaced it in early 1999 with 10k miles on the bike. In late 2001 I found my way to the CBR 1100XX forum and just read what everyone was going through with the CCT's (I replaced another CCT with the Stock US one). In late 2001 or early 2002, James (jlheine), who just happens to be livining in Japan, bought an X-11 CCT and did a little comparo. Took some pictures, there is a little difference in color and I believe he verified that the plunger was 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch longer. Asked if anyone wanted one. I was one of maybe 20 guys that bought that first round of X-11 CCT's and have not had a problem since. Since, there have been a number of group buys and I believe you just missed the last one by a week or two. Point being (and I don't know if you get it yet from your last post), this has been a long term problem, it has been all over the board from the Pub, Meetings, Profiles and Mostly Sticky in the Garage. I am not sure if Joe has one left, but he has been coordinating the High Stakes game of Importing the X-11 CCT's for the past few group buys. If you shoot him a PM, I am sure he can help (at least with a little more info.) MaXX

I got this one guys!!!! discountmotorcycletire.com swmototires.com ronayers.com MaXX

The BT20's would be your best bet Dave (if you go Bridgestone). That is their ST tire. BT 10's are the next softest (considered sport tire) then the BT012SS for the track. MaXX

I think I got mine for $636 deliverd (aluminum fiber). And Don, you are wrong, he should go with the CF (I like to be original). Got me thinking so I went to see if I had the receipt, yep, $639.99 delivered. I think they are suppose to be the same price as CF. He had them in stock and may have wanted to move them as I was talking CF the entire time I was talking to them and special ordering them. Maybe that motivated them????????? Mac

THat is fucked up. Chester only has the Micron slip ons and Dynojet did his map for free so they would have a map (if I remember correctly). Weird. I would think anything would be better then stock or if you can swing it, of course, a custom map by a good tuner is the best route. MaXX

We've had this talk before Tim!!!! That's why I don't get speeding tickets!!!! Mac

Go to hotmail, set up a new email, register as someone else. Walk in the park buddy!!! MaXX

Oooops, post whore Mac

I think I do know what you mean (in my best Southern Drawl and Dueling Banjo's playing in the background) Mac

Yeah, register with a different name (which you probably should have done before activating SUKINFUMES)!!! MaXX

Law Enforcement Background!!! MaXX

PM Chester (Chad), he may have one for you. MaXX

Yeah, size and shape make a difference!!! Mine's bigger, thus deeper <the sound> Randy, you liken the scream to an F1 car, I liken it to the scream of a Gixxer 750 or a new inmate in state prison getting his introduction to prison love!!!! MaXX

The thing about the Renegades is that they are hand made (I have a full hi mount system fitted to my Tuono R). Jorge at Renegade also gives great customer support. Keep in mind though, he is located in the UK and currently does not have a US distributor (but you can buy directly from them). Because they are handmade, if you wanted a longer or shorter exhaust can, or the pipes to go somewhere else, he will typically do it. He may also be willing to fabricate a true undertail exhaust if you are interested in spending the $$$$$. From the comparison Randy is talking about, the MIG's have a deeper growl while the Renegade's give out that awesome inline 4 scream. I actually like the scream of the Rene's more then the MIG's, but the MIG's are a better fit for what I use the XX for. MaXX

Hydroguy, hit the search engine for undertails, there are several out there. Regarding pipes, High Mounts are currently the best we can do, as Joe said, I do not know of any undertail exhausts available. Here is a picture of my MIG's (in Aluminum Fiber). In addition, Renegade makes hi mounts for the XX as well. MaXX

Damn, I should have figured he would take the "rich" man's way out and not settle for our poor excuse for a solution!!!!!! MaXX

Hey Jerry, I meant to give you this info too. I don't know if you like the turn signals on the XX but here is what I did (following Vern's lead). http://www.web-rider.net/lifebrite/pics.html Here is what they look like on my bike. If you save the photo, you should be able to view it in true size: In addition, if you chose to use these LED's, you will need to install 2 resistor's in the turn signal circuits. Here is a diagram Vern faxed me that I scanned in. Again, I think if you save it you will see it in full size (I can email it as well). MaXX

Just to give you the quick mechanics, there are two sets of barrings in the steeringhead. The top set (under the top triple clamp) and the lower set (on top of the lower triple clamp). These two sets of barrings are held in place with the two steeringhead bearing nuts. If you put the bike on the centerstand and lift the front tire off of the ground, the handlebars should be able to swing freely from side to side. At the same time, the steering head bearing nuts should be tight enough to keep the stearing stem from moving front to back (to check this, put your bike on the centerstand and have someone hold the back of the bike down and with the front wheel off the ground, grab the bottom of the forks and try to move them forward and backward). If they move, the nut is not tight enough. The thing to keep in mind is you only want the Steeringhead bearing nut only as tight as is necessary to keep the forks from moving, yet as light as possible to keep from ruining the bearings. In addition, if you get the two steeringhead bearing nuts to the appropriate torque, when you tighten down the top triple clamp nut (the 12 or 14 mm allen head) you add additional pressure to the bearings. If you do the tests and the handlebars move easily from side to side (no drag) and the foks do not move front to back, your steeringhead bearing nuts are fine and you need to look elsewhere. Hope this helps. MaXX