hillbillyxx

Could he be talking about the wiring harness corrosion problem that I had?

Out of curiosity... How did you tap into the cold water line? Did you use one of those self drilling saddle valves, or did you make a regular T-connection in the cold water line? I would really like to replace my still new fridge with a SS fridge. (all the rest of my appliances are SS) and I'd like an icemaker but would need to run a line also. The saddle valves are easy to install, but I know in some places they aren't up to code. I suggest that you never use a saddle valve to hook up an ice maker when the saddle valve is above your new Dell PC. The computer dried out but I will never use a saddle valve again.

I had to replace my harness due to corrosion. No problems since then.

Didn't know that they sold anything but tractor tires in IN. Did you have to head over to the KY to find a local dealer?? Sorry Josh I had to say that.

Loose or poor contact on IAT sensor. Open or short circuit in IAT circuit wire. Faulty IAT sensor.

Does anyone have a pic of the stock bars raised? I am not sure how far mine can be raised.

I might just limp around this winter with the tire and replace it in the spring. We don't get many chances to ride once the white shit flies. It's been years since I had a flat tire on anything then this year it's four plugs in the Mustang and one for the Bird. This sucks.

Has anyone used the plug patches that pull through the hole and glue to the inside of the tire? It's not the ordinary plug that they stick through from the inside. This style is pulled through from the inside and cut off.

I have had some tough times mastering the art of getting the chimney to draw since I installed the Englander stove. The first thing I tried was to extend the chimney above the roof line. It didn't help that much. What does work is to almost close the damper and stick a propane torch through the remaining crack and heat up the chimney. You can check to see if it's hot enough to draw by burning some rolled up newspaper while the torch is still heating things up. It's a pain in the ass but with practice you can tell about when to light the kindling.

It sounds like a good idea but I would wonder if small rocks would stick to it if it heats up and gets tacky. Since some people here claim that black is the fastest color would black undercoating underneath the fender increase top speed? :idea:

How do you secure the bird? Canyon dancer front end? Where and how do you hold it down securely. Tie downs to eyebolts? It looks like it's gonna be hard to keep the tiedowns off the plastic. My trailer has rails about one foot higher than the bed. I have had good luck with strapping the front tire to the front rail with a nylon strap. Then I hook the front tie downs to the bar risers and tie them to the side rails on the trailer. I use 2 more rachet straps from each rear foot peg bracket to the trailer side rails. Both sets of straps pull down and out to the sides. With the rear ones I try to pull the bike a little towards the front of the trailer. If you position the front ones carefully the rubbing on the fairing can be minimized but not prevented. I use some soft towels wrapped around the strap where it touches the fairing. The ideal strap positions would be from the bar risers to the front corners of the trailer pulling forwards and down but due to the fairing and type of trailer I cannot decide how to acomplish this. If anyone has any better suggestions I am all ears. :idea:

Has anyone tried them? Any thought on how traction and ride feel are compared to the old BT010? There is a brand new BT010 on the front and I want to run similar tires front and rear. The next time around I might consider something different than Bridgestone.

Read the post about cleaning the connection on the left side of the frame. My light was coming on and off at but not setting a code on the ECM. I could flex the harness at the location everyone describes and the light would blink while I was twisting it. I didn't locate the problems soon enough to save the connection. It melted enough that we had to replace the harness. You don't want to ignore this problem as the ECM and the harness are both pricy parts. Honda at least paid for my ECM but I had to buy the harness myself.

They had to replace my ECM to get it to run. It died about 100 miles from home in the backwoods. Came to a very quiet stop beside an old gas station. Some guy walked over and offered to let me put it in his building until I could get a ride home to get the trailer. Made for a long day. It would be nice to consider it fixed for good and not something temporary. I plan on some short rides when the weather breaks to make sure things are ok.

Your Honda dealer is the first stop for questions or concerns about your vehicle. Contact your dealer for information about service and maintenance, warranty repairs, Honda Genuine Parts, and more. You'll also find answers to some common questions in Honda FAQs. For information about Honda Protection Plans: Contact your dealer. For HRCA member services: Contact your dealer or call 1-800-847-4722. To comment about your experiences with your Honda or with your dealer (USA only): Motorcycle Division American Honda Motor Co., Inc. P.O. Box 2220 Torrance, CA 90509-2220 Mailstop:100-4W-5B Telephone: (310) 532-9811

I am the third owner of an 00 xx. When the FI light came on and stayed on whenever the engine was warm I kept riding. When it quit coming on I thought it had healed itself. I thought different when it quit running in the boondocks. American Honda worked with me and the local Honda dealer until the problems was fixed. They replaced the ECM twice. The first one was defective. They even paid for it under the pollution warranty which lasts longer than the mechanical warranty. When I got it back from the Honda dealer it had a nice dent in the fuel tank. Six months and one court hearing later we agreed to settle out of court just before the last hearing. Got my new tank but what a nightmare. http://www.sportbikes.net/photos/showphoto.../cat/528/page/1

I now know that the key code is inside the cas cap lid. If it has an a or b in the code it's type 1. With a c or d in the code it's type 2. The part number for 1 is 35121-kw3-771 For number two it's 35122-kw3-771 Customer relations at American Honda can be very helpful.

All the dealers in my area are telling me that there are two different key types. Type 1 and 2. My key is not a standard Honda key so I can't tell them what it is. Any thought on how to tell which key type I have?

When I bought my 2000xx it came with one home made bent key. Whats the best way to find the key number or to just have a new key made? I don't feel that making a new key off of the bent one is an option. What's the best way to find the number of the switch:?:

I didn't mean to imply that it didn't have excellent brakes. The front brakes really get the job done. The heavy pedal pressure as jdrx suggests is probably tied to the linked braking system but it feels weird as heck. I amost think it was better with two indepependent systems that gave the rider complete control. jdrx I understand your warning about learning how it works and no offense taken. I did try it out in the early am hours at the local Wal Mart to learn a little. It seems bikes have come a long way since my RD400 and GS700 days. This Honda was looked forward to for 15 years while I finished my child support obligation and I don't like the thought of dropping it through my ignorance. :bike:

I am new to my 2000xx. The pressure required to brake is a little on the heavy side compared to other bikes I have ridden. Is this something to do with the linked braking system? Can anyone offer any feedback?