Wolf1999 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 I've been having some electronic issues with my bike and I think I got it narrowed down to my regulator. While I'm riding I can feel my bike slow down a little and pick back up. Kinda like someone put a rope on my bike and every once in a while they'll pull on it to slow me down then give me slack. No drop in rpm and no difference in the way the bike sounds. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 I think if you unplug your regulator you'll see that is not the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Something with an errant brake pad? Sounds like a plug or coil dropping out except for the lack of RPM change. Though that sounds unlikely with a non viscous coupling. The rear wheel is mechanically linked to the crankshaft - unless you are adding throttle to keep the revs steady, any loss in speed would necessarily be at the cost of engine speed. Is this bike FI, or carbed? Intermittent injector, or FP issue? A voltmeter would be a helpful diagnostic tool, if only to eliminate the regulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02 SilverBird Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Check how hot each of the brake disc's are, one caliper could be binding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf1999 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 The bike is fuel injected. I don't believe I'm adding throttle when this happens. The reason I'm replacing the regulator is for the battery dying issue I was having. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 So, your first sentence has nothing to do with your second sentence? Regulator is a common fail item, but isn't necessarily the cause of a dead battery. I think someone mentioned that a voltmeter could be a helpful diagnostic tool, YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 As mentioned, the brakes are the first suspect to eliminate--a hot caliper is a smoking gun (pad drag, stuck piston, dirty fluid, etc.). Otherwise make certain your fuel isn't contaminated (moisture/water, or just plain old gas) and the in-tank filter isn't compromised or clogged. If it's electrical, there are typically other symptoms that start popping up (intermittant or erratic gauge/dash behavior, periodic loss-of-ground stumbles, etc.). Check the harness connector near the regulator--corrosion can be an issue and the fix is well known (search this site for details). An on-board voltmeter can be a valuable diagnostic tool. Just don't overlook the simple stuff in your gremlin hunt. Best of Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) Need more info, but my spidey-sense says it's a fueling issue. Especially if the problem is most noticed cruising down the highway at a steady speed. Even FI bikes have a lean spot that can cause serging. Edited September 29, 2015 by jon haney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) Jon may well be on to something re: a fueling issue . . . (I can't believe I didn't think of this before--oops, just noticed that Mike/iFanboi mentioned it in post #3) . . . Lift the tank and check the vent lines from the FI bodies for raw fuel. They should be dry--if not, your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is most likely compromised. More specically, the FPR's (internal) diaphragm membrane may have a hole/split that allows raw fuel to foul the vent lines. It can start out as a subtle hic-cup or unanticipated burble when running, but over time only gets worse. The good news: it's an easy fix. The FPR is on the end of the fuel rail (right side), easily replaced. (In my '99-2000 Service Manual, you can find diagrams, pics, and specic instructions; FPR p.5-47, 48, 49 . . . Throttle bodies' vent lines p. 5-60 thru 63) You can find specic parts numbers at Ron Ayers' site . . . http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/default.asp Parts Fiche - vent tubing detal http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=6766221&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1999&fveh=251890 Parts Fiche - FPR (part 18) http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=6766214&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1999&fveh=251890 Edited September 29, 2015 by ironmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 You have a 99 model.. it's a known problem with the ecu mapping on the 99 and 00 models. They fixed it in 01 when they eliminated the bar sensor, and changed the fuel programming. You can fix the majorety of it with a PC2.. by adding a 1 value in the 5% throttle position map. Other than that you just need to practice being just a little more on the throttle or off the throttle while cruising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf1999 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Thanks for all the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.