768mph
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2003 CBR1100xx
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2003 Honda CBR1100xx FOR SALE
768mph replied to 768mph's topic in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
BIKE IS SOLD -
2003 Honda CBR1100xx FOR SALE
768mph replied to 768mph's topic in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Added better photos -
2003 Honda CBR1100xx FOR SALE
768mph replied to 768mph's topic in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Sale pending -
2003 Honda CBR1100xx FOR SALE
768mph replied to 768mph's topic in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Those are multiple photos of the bike through its progression. I had Stock exhaust then delkevic slip ons, and finalized with a Full Yoshimura. I wasnt aware I had to list the history of changes to sell what the bike has on it NOW. My list is as detailed and structured as it gets. So thank you for your criticism, noted...and the like. Enjoyed your quote in your signature btw. Look at all the photos. I see three different exhaust in them. The first shot would be the full Yosh. ^ Thank you for being able to decipher through that. Thanks gentlemen. -
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$275 shipped (lower 48 states)
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Delkevic 350mm Slip ons (500 miles) $275 shipped (lower 48 states) I went Full Yoshi, no need for them.
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Fixed the issue Gents. When I bled, the bike was on the center stand and bars full tilt to the right; proper postions per the manual. I was suggested to sit on the bike and tilt the bike as far as I could the the right and pump the clutch handle to see if any bubbles may have stuck near the banjo bolt connection below the reservoir; it worked! A few pumps of the clutch handle and it was back to what it was originally. Thank you all for the help! Yep, thats the click I was refering to. I took the handle off and lubed/cleaned the bolt connection. And realized it was the interlock system. Yes, i will get new levers here soon. Thanks bud.
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Yes, Ive ridden again after bleeding it. Seems better but not to where It was. Ill just bite the bullet and buy a Motive Pump Bleeder. http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/715/0090/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710740688&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848287&cadevice=c&gclid=CIPCj6KB0MACFcZQ7AodUFQAWw Im sure I can use it on my bike and vehicle. Just gives me an excuse to buy a new tool. haha
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How far out is the clutch push rod (in the reservoir) supposed to engage? Looking at it and hearing the initial click, it clicks on the first 1/3 of the clutch lever's travel. but the clutch doesnt engage until the last 2/3rds-end of the lever's travel. If that makes sense. Shouldnt it engage (initially) as soon or near the release from the grip and the clutch engages halfway through travel?
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I recently bought a 2003 Bird, previous owner stored it and too great care of it (stored for a year) 9800 miles, now has 10,3xxx miles. I replaced the fuel pump and filter (pump seized), changed the FPR, tires, Oil change and just recently bled the brakes and the clutch fluid (ATE Super Blue DOT4) Bike had no problems with clutch before change (original fluid I assume) it was dark and cloudy with no loss of fluid. After the process, brakes work great but the clutch bite point is now all the way to you end now. Before it would engage half way through. What I done to remedy this: -Bled the fluid 3 times (pneumatic air pump, gravity and old school pump method) NO AIR in system. -Pulled sprocket cover, cleaned the rod and the debris and build up inside and around the cover/sprockets) -Rod had some black (faint) scoring but true and cleaned up nicely. I can only think maybe the slave cylinder but everything was in working order before the fluid change. How would new fluid cause it to stick where the old fluid was dirty.. Thoughts?