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kiwimack

FI Light stays on

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Have had a problem since NEXXT. The FI light will come on then stay on unless I am idling for a time then it will turn on off butt come back on once I get on the throttle.

I have checked everything, oil level, radiator , stator (New along with RR) The voltage is doing what it should.

I will disconnect the battery and see if it magically resets.

ANYBODY have this experience?

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Not me. I assume its just light up and not throwing any codes. I'd suggest....

*remove power commander if present

*unplug/plug the ecu a few times to clean the connections

*check your idle speed

*clean the ground connections.

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Put the sidestand down with it on and see if the fi light pulses. Count the pulses and post . Last week mine started doing a 8 count. The throttle position sensor plug was a little loose. Reseated it and so far, so good

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I would also check to make sure you have a solid ground. Don't remember too much from my Blackbird but I know that the Honda VTX's would show an intermittent FI light but not throw codes and it was due to a loose ground wire or corrosion that had built up around the main grounding point. Removing the ground wire, sanding it and the mating surface clean and then re-tightening with an application of dielectric grease cured it.

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I have been having this issue for years. I have a PCII on mine that has been dyno tuned for my application (K&N, Micron CF Slip-ons). It keeps throwing the code for the knock sensor. It isn't a shut down, but a warning only. I contacted Dynojet and this is the reply that I got from them:

"

The PC2 should not interfere or offset any signals from the bike’s knock sensor. It works by offsetting the signals of the bike’s barometric pressure sensor (atmospheric air pressure), throttle position sensor, MAP sensor (manifold pressure), and crank position sensor (for ignition timing adjustment). Any wires that are relating to the bike’s knock sensor should only be passed straight through the harness from one connector to the next, without connecting to the module whatsoever. You might find out what pins on the ECU relate to the knock sensor and test the continuity of those pins across the PC2 harness. The Power Commander might also be pulling out enough fuel to where the engine is knocking, or adding enough timing to make the engine knock. See if it does the same thing with a zero map loaded. There isn’t any firmware updates available on the older units. Also try retarding the timing in the ignition table to keep the bike from knocking. Make sure you don’t have any intake leaks. Also make sure the bike doesn’t have bad gas in it. Your worst case scenario is having to update to the PC3usb, if this code never comes up without the Power Commander plugged in.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,

Chris Kelly

Dynojet Research Inc.

2191 Mendenhall Dr. Suite 105

North Las Vegas, NV 89081

1-800-992-4993"

It sounds like the previous advice you got here is relevant as well - check the connections and ground. I had to buy a $40 patch cable because the original one that came with the PCII had a plug that computers don't use anymore. This one goes from whatever that is to USB so I can connect it to my laptop. It doesn't run bad or anything so I haven't tried the adjustments that he suggested but that isn't to say that they don't work.

Good luck!

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I have been having this issue for years. I have a PCII on mine that has been dyno tuned for my application (K&N, Micron CF Slip-ons). It keeps throwing the code for the knock sensor. It isn't a shut down, but a warning only. I contacted Dynojet and this is the reply that I got from them:

"

The PC2 should not interfere or offset any signals from the bike’s knock sensor. It works by offsetting the signals of the bike’s barometric pressure sensor (atmospheric air pressure), throttle position sensor, MAP sensor (manifold pressure), and crank position sensor (for ignition timing adjustment). Any wires that are relating to the bike’s knock sensor should only be passed straight through the harness from one connector to the next, without connecting to the module whatsoever. You might find out what pins on the ECU relate to the knock sensor and test the continuity of those pins across the PC2 harness. The Power Commander might also be pulling out enough fuel to where the engine is knocking, or adding enough timing to make the engine knock. See if it does the same thing with a zero map loaded. There isn’t any firmware updates available on the older units. Also try retarding the timing in the ignition table to keep the bike from knocking. Make sure you don’t have any intake leaks. Also make sure the bike doesn’t have bad gas in it. Your worst case scenario is having to update to the PC3usb, if this code never comes up without the Power Commander plugged in.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,

Chris Kelly

Dynojet Research Inc.

2191 Mendenhall Dr. Suite 105

North Las Vegas, NV 89081

1-800-992-4993"

It sounds like the previous advice you got here is relevant as well - check the connections and ground. I had to buy a $40 patch cable because the original one that came with the PCII had a plug that computers don't use anymore. This one goes from whatever that is to USB so I can connect it to my laptop. It doesn't run bad or anything so I haven't tried the adjustments that he suggested but that isn't to say that they don't work.

Good luck!

A tank of 93 fuel might be able to tell you something. If the problem stops, you know that it is knocking, then you can adjust the timing.

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